1972 Dodge Colt

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RustyRatRod said:
Stan it is sounding better!
Click to expand...
@RustyRatRod It does doesn't it!
It really started doing what I "thought" the "old" engine should have been doing.

I have a good ring seal now, more compression, better head, more cam, etc.
It feels good to get this 60 year old piece of cast iron starting to sing.
Or at least, clear her throat!
 
Hyper_pak said:
@RustyRatRod It does doesn't it!
It really started doing what I "thought" the "old" engine should have been doing.

I have a good ring seal now, more compression, better head, more cam, etc.
It feels good to get this 60 year old piece of cast iron starting to sing.
Or at least, clear her throat!
Click to expand...
what do you figure the compression came out to 11:1?
 
Icetech said:
what do you figure the compression came out to 11:1?
Click to expand...
No, around 10.5 to 10.75.
I should have cut the head a few more thousands, but it's at .100 now so I thought was enough right now.
When that other head was leaking water, I was pretty disappointed and wanted something I knew to be ok.
I am going to get that other head going with a better set of valves and studs for the rocker shaft.
It has some of the best porting I have ever had and I want to see what it will do.
But I really think right now getting my 60 foot times down will get it in the 7's.
I am leaving a lot on the table with the launches.
 
Hyper_pak said:
No, around 10.5 to 10.75.
I should have cut the head a few more thousands, but it's at .100 now so I thought was enough right now.
When that other head was leaking water, I was pretty disappointed and wanted something I knew to be ok.
I am going to get that other head going with a better set of valves and studs for the rocker shaft.
It has some of the best porting I have ever had and I want to see what it will do.
But I really think right now getting my 60 foot times down will get it in the 7's.
I am leaving a lot on the table with the launches.
Click to expand...
yeah, i think you said it was like a 2.1 60... you get that down and you will be in the 7s pretty well :) can't wait to see it
 
Hyper_pak said:
No, around 10.5 to 10.75.
I should have cut the head a few more thousands, but it's at .100 now so I thought was enough right now.
When that other head was leaking water, I was pretty disappointed and wanted something I knew to be ok.
I am going to get that other head going with a better set of valves and studs for the rocker shaft.
It has some of the best porting I have ever had and I want to see what it will do.
But I really think right now getting my 60 foot times down will get it in the 7's.
I am leaving a lot on the table with the launches.
Click to expand...
To go back to that head, I just picked up another 170 from a '61 Lancer, head casting# 2202952-3. It had a Victor Victocor gasket & the O/A height is 3.595", the '62 Valiant head casting# 2206036-1 w/the factory OEM shim gasket had an O/A height of 3.610".
The depth of the 'dime' on the Lancer head is @.175", so I'm confident We are correct, Your other head has been mowed .200".
 
qkcuda said:
If he's got a bog as it is, I don't think the tires need to be stickier.
Click to expand...
True dat.
I have been slowly increasing air pressure to get a little spin.
I started at 14, Sunday I was at 18.
The tire patch looks to be around 11 inches now.
I spent some time on the phone today with Six Gun Scott.
We talked about clutch combinations and other stuff to make it launch.
He has his Comet humming!
 
Hyper_pak said:
True dat.
I have been slowly increasing air pressure to get a little spin.
I started at 14, Sunday I was at 18.
The tire patch looks to be around 11 inches now.
I spent some time on the phone today with Six Gun Scott.
We talked about clutch combinations and other stuff to make it launch.
He has his Comet humming!
Click to expand...

That Comet sounds angry!
 
Hyper_pak said:
Ok, gotcha.
I should make a chart of that, do you think that would indicate chamber volume?
Click to expand...
Not directly, it is just an indicator of how much has been cut, as the cut intrudes into the chamber shape the amount of cc's removed changes...usually less per .010" because the chamber gets smaller as You pass the bore-size area. A lot less once You hit the open quench area...if You get that far.
 
Killer why do you think the 2 numbers are different?
Since there was a different gasket, do you think one was cut?
 
Hyper_pak said:
Killer why do you think the 2 numbers are different?
Since there was a different gasket, do you think one was cut?
Click to expand...
Yeah, the Valiant head/engine looked untouched, head gasket certainly looked OE & was rusted through up front where it should be blocking the hole in the deck...one of those sneaky causes of overheating,.....& I'm fairly sure the Lancer head was surfaced, with the Victor gasket present (.045" thick as removed). If the head had been cut .015", then the 'dime' reference would've been .190" deep, another .010" would probably just clean the cast surface off. So I'd say .200" milled off minimum is likely accurate.
 
I have been working thru regular maintenance for a couple weeks off and on.
Head torque, valve adjust, oil change, etc.
I removed the clutch pedal to fix the slop in the master cylinder rod.
I threaded the hole, put in a bolt and cut it flush.
I will weld one side to keep it from turning.
Then the correct size hole for the rod in bearing pivot.
Also going to install a return spring to get it a little more consistent.
I still don't have a great feel for the clutch operation.
After I get it better I will reinstall the tamer.
Clutch Pedal Mod.jpeg
 
My Lincoln Helmet is giving me trouble.
An Auto Darkening Helmet doesn't work consistently, that is not good.
But I just used the fuse function and melted it together.
I didn't want to feed in any filler because I would just have to grind it off.
Not exactly stacking dimes but it will work.

Now to drill for the smaller bolt and put it back together.
Clutch Pedal Mod (1).jpeg
 
I spite of my best efforts the insert hot a little hot and changed shape.
So after I worked on it for hours I got it back together and it turns on the shaft nice.
However now the pedal now can move right or left on the insert.
SO I am in a thinking mode to get a good solution to an unexpected problem.

In the mean time working on a Weber heat shield between headers and bottom of carbs.
My Mechanical FI friend, fan, thinks I am crazy screwing with Webers.
He might be right.
Pedal Bushing.jpeg
Weber Heat Shield.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Hyper_pak said:
I spite of my best efforts the insert hot a little hot and changed shape.
So after I worked on it for hours I got it back together and it turns on the shaft nice.
However now the pedal now can more right or left on the insert.
SO I am in a thinking mode to get a good solution to an unexpected problem.

In the mean time working on a Weber heat shield between headers and bottom of carbs.
My Mechanical FI friend, fan, thinks I am crazy screwing with Webers.
He might be right.
View attachment 1716258900View attachment 1716258901
Click to expand...
No way.. those webers are cool as hell.. might just take some time to dial in
 
So I drilled and installed a short roll pin.
It goes through the steel and a portion of the bushing.
It should keep them both happy.

Pedal turns like butter now, didn't do that before.
I have a couple of spacers for the rod end bearing that should allow everything to be snug.
Then the slop should be gone.
Should be.
Pedal Bushing Pin.jpeg
 
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