1974 Dart Swinger VS. The Evils Of Rust!

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Here is what the car looks like after about 5 days of sanding with 80 grit. The top is almost down to bare rust/metal. It's pitted pretty bad in spots but there is no rust through except for a few small spots in the pillars that will have to be fixed. I'm going to post this question in the body/interior/trim section where it will get more exposure, but what do you guys think about rust converters? It looks like it would be my only option for the rust on the roof that I can't sand off, but I don't know if I trust it...
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If it were my car I would grind more of the rust off using 36 grit and a 6" or 4" pad on a da sander. Otherwise I guess you could por15 it and then fill the pits with filler.Top coat it with a coat of that liquid bondo spray (sorry cant remember the name),it's really a very thick hi build primer.
 
I think I will try some 36 grit to see how much more of the rust I can remove before using a rust converter.
 
Sorry I should correct the to-coat comment. If you choose por15,Im certain you will also need thier primer as well. There is also a newish product called evaporust.

http://www.evaporust.ca/

I have used this stuff with stunning success. It will strip EVERY BIT OF RUST. I used it on a pair of Kelsey Hayes brake calipers most recently and they looked like new castings when I pulled them from the dip. You can easily do larger area's by spreading paper towel soaked in evaporust and leaving it in place. Simply rinse with clean water and dry quickly after a couple hours. If you want you can even leave a coat of evaporust on until your ready for filler etc and it will efectively seal it off so no new rust will occur.
 
I'll have to check that stuff out later from my computer. My phone won't run flash so the website doesn't come up right...
 
It's been way too long since I have had anything to update and have been showing serious symptoms Dart withdrawal...

The past few months have been hectic! Since my current job was getting me nowhere, I spent all summer unsuccessfully searching for a new one. When it came time to register for the fall semester I decided to take 4 classes, which is a heavier load than I usually take, and pause the job search until school was out. So, I was working 5 days a week and going to school 4 when I got a call from one of the companies that I was interested in. Since I didn't have much experience in what they were hiring for, they wanted to bring me on for a month to see if I was worthy... There was no way I could quit my current job to try out for a chance at a new one; but I really liked the company and decided to take that on as well. I spent all of October working 2 jobs and and taking 4 classes.... not much fun. At the end of the month my hard work payed off and the new company hired me on full time. My school work got a little behind durring that time so I spent all of November and the first half of December playing catch up at school. After countless pots of coffee, I made it through and things have finally started to slow down enough that I can resume some of the work on my Dart. Enough about me...Lets get to the car!

Since winter in Missouri really sucks and I have a small garage, I won't be doing any more body work until things start to warm up again. I brought the dash inside the basement and have began to restore it. There were a bunch of small rust holes in the bottom of the dash frame that I couldn't patch with new metal. I sanded off all of the rust that I could and used a rust converter on the places that I couldn't get to. To take care of the holes I put down a layer of fiberglass on the inside, and filled them from the outside with bondo. Using the fiberglass allowed me to keep the thickness of the bondo down so this should prevent any cracking. Here are some pics of what has been done so far:

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I've been waiting for someone to use some of the new glues to replace rusted areas. I talked to the auto paint supply in town and they love the stuff, but suggest it should only be used in non structual repairs. That dash would be a great place to try it! Cut a repair panel, flange it and glue it in.
 
I was thinking about welding in a patch panel but then I would almost have to find a new dash frame to cut the panel from. I don't think I could have replaced the curved part without using a replacement from an actual dash frame.
 
low kota,
where did you purchase your floor pan sections at? I was looking at some from c2fabrication. they have 2 different ones to choose from and there is a difference in price 78 vs. 59.
 
I got the cheaper ones from Rockauto.com. They took some trimming to make fit, but for the price, I really can't complain. You could also check with member Crackedback, he sometimes sells factory floorpans from parts cars.
 
The dash is almost ready to go back in! I still need to get a cover for the dash pad and a pair of defroster vents.
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How is the rest of the car coming?

It's coming along slowly... I'm lucky if I get to spend an hour a week on it. The rust on the roof has been dealt with and I'm working on filling and smoothing out the roof seams. I'm hoping that I will have the roof finished and painted soon so I can put the windows and interior back in before the end of summer.
 
i think this is an awesome thread. Makes me miss my 75 but I still have my 76. I like the black and red too.
 
Wow! It's hard to believe it's been 2 years since I have made any real progress on my car. I've been back at it in the past few weeks and hope to keep the momentum going!

The carb I had on the car was junk, so I am working on swapping it out with a super six set-up and a mopar performance 6 into 1 header. Everything is on now, I just need to hook up the throttle cable and figure out what to do about the choke. I'm not going to bother hooking up the kick down linkage since the car will just be moving in an out of the garage for body work for a few more years and I hope to swap the 904 for a 4-speed before I start driving it.
:burnout:

Next on the list is the brakes. I need to replace the wheel cylinders in the rear. I tried to bleed them and there was so much rust I twisted off one of the bleeder valves. Brakes are a must at this point. I have to move the car out of the garage to work on it and I'm getting tired of pushing it in an out!

I also have an AMD quarter panel on the way for the passenger side. When it gets in I will be busy for a while and should have plenty more pics to post.
 
The car runs much better with the super six. I can now start it consistently when I want to work on it!
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The passenger door on the car was in too bad of shape to use the lines as a reference for putting in the new quarter panel, so I got a better door from a FABO member. I still need to work on the door gaps and get it lined up, but here is how it looks.

[URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b404/low_kota/Mobile%20Uploads/20140711_191007.jpg"][URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b404/low_kota/Mobile%20Uploads/20140711_191007.jpg"][/URL][/URL]
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Soon I will be back to cutting and welding. Here are a few shots of the panel that will be replaced.
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[URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b404/low_kota/Mobile%20Uploads/20140711_193721.jpg"][URL="http://i1040.photobucket.com/albums/b404/low_kota/Mobile%20Uploads/20140711_193721.jpg"][/URL][/URL]
 
Last year I got as far as cutting out the old quarter panel before I had to stop for the winter. I also realized how poor of a fit the AMD quarter panel was. Actually, I'm not convinced that it actually is an AMD quarter panel. The seller (Tamraz on E-bay) told me it fit years 72-76, and this date range along with "made in Taiwan" are on the sticker on the inside of the quarter panel. When I asked AMD about the poor fit, they said that they make a quarter panel for a 72-73, but nothing for a 74...Enough about that, here is how the car looked before going to bed for the winter:





As you can see, the inside of the car also acts a s a storage space for random car parts and tools....
 
The first thing I did in the spring was take a wire wheel and scraper to the trunk to see if I could get away with just patching the bad parts. Turns out it was all to rusted to save.







All of the rust shown above will be replaced by this:

 
I took off work Friday and Monday, so that I could work harder than I do at work, to get some of this rusty metal replaced! Me and my Dad spent 4 days working on the car pretty much non stop. The first 2 pics show how short the quarter panel was.



Extending and fitting the quarter panel:




Here's a pic of the workshop:


More pics:






I didn't get many pics of the trunk, but we also got both trunk extensions in and most of the trunk pan welded in. Hopefully I will posting pictures of the finished trunk soon. The hardest part was, by far, getting the old rusty trunk pan out! Lot of hammer an chisel time! Overall I think we made some descent progress for 4 days of work. I need to get a patch for the driver side quarter panel and patch a small rust spot an the driver side fender, then the rust repair will be over!
 
Last year I got as far as cutting out the old quarter panel before I had to stop for the winter. I also realized how poor of a fit the AMD quarter panel was. Actually, I'm not convinced that it actually is an AMD quarter panel. The seller (Tamraz on E-bay) told me it fit years 72-76, and this date range along with "made in Taiwan" are on the sticker on the inside of the quarter panel. When I asked AMD about the poor fit, they said that they make a quarter panel for a 72-73, but nothing for a 74...Enough about that, here is how the car looked before going to bed for the winter:

Just so you know, the only difference between a 72-73 quarter panel and a 74 quarter panel is the marker light locations. Dimensionally and body line wise, they are the same. However, I don't think you got an AMD as I was under the impression AMD was US made.
 
Good progress, keep it up.
The panel looks like a Goodmark one, not AMD.
BTW, AMD panels are stamped in China, but the tooling is developed in the U.S.A. then shipped over there. This is why they can put on their boxes "Made in the U.S.A."
 
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