1974 Duster - First Mopar

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cosworth said:
Anyone use a rust inhibitor like rust bullet or por15? thinking about brushing down the interior sheet metal and underside with it. Any opinions?
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You only need to use it where there is signs of rust. I used Rustmort (Rustoleum product) that I picked up at Autozone. You don't need a ton of it, a little goes a loong way. Let it dry and cover with color of choice.

So far in the areas I used it I have had no bleed through of rust in the paint. Just another option for you.
 
New headers arrived today hopefully they fit better than the last set.
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pic of my other baby was a 1976 Cosworth Vega
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cosworth said:
New headers arrived today hopefully they fit better than the last set.
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Looks like the set I got. The passenger side is pretty much a drop in, the driver side will have to go in from underneath. You will have to disconnect the centerlink, it goes through the header.

You might have to custom ding the driver side in a couple of spots too. I would also recommend running a small starter, or wrap some heat wrap around the large starter motor before you put the header on. The starter don't like the heat soak.

I had to replace mine after just a few miles.

Also use a good quality gasket like Remflex. Don't forget some sealant on the front and rear header bolts. They are wet holes.
 
My heads have studs still Couldnt get em out but thanks for the advice Hadnt thought about those. Probably need to revisit my intake unless im mistaken some of those will let oil seep through. Took all of the driving link out starter, steering box, steering column, when i was fighting the set of headers I "thought" were A body headers. They turned out to be truck headers.
 
Probably need to revisit my intake unless im mistaken some of those will let oil seep through.
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Yup, pull the bolts one at a time and use some high temp sealant on them. I just put a new intake on my engine and used the Permatex brand, no leaks yet.
 
Got the headers installed today, they work so much better when they are not ment for a truck. Still a real bear to get them in. Rebuilt the front end new bushings etc. Went through the steering box.

Previous owner did a horrible job replacing two patches in the floor that im going to grind back out and redo.

Got a dashpad off a member here should show up next week.
 
Its rustoleum hammertone finish. The orileys by me carries it. Ive also seen it at home depot its pretty durable. Looks really good in person on this intake.
 
Rust Bullet is WAY better than POR15, I use black shell on heavy rust like trunk pans, the automotive stuff (silver) is thinner and goes further.
 
I think por15 is an amazing product. You get a lot of coverage with a small amount. Look on my build "disc brake swap turned full resto" all the engine compartment I covered was about a rattle can paint cap full of por15. Just don't get it on your skin because only time will get it off so be sure to wear gloves. I used 36 grit sand paper to knock off the surface rust then gave the por15 a couple days to cure then knocked down the highs with 220 grit sand paper then painted over it with high build primer.
 
You don't have to paint over Rust Bullet unlike POR15 as it is UV resistant (yes I have tried it) and it doesn't peel like POR15 when you put it on non rusty metal, but for best results rusty metal is what its for. I used 1 quart can of RB for my Demon floor pans, the frame on my Dart and the trunk in my Dart and my Satellite, I still have some left too, but time to buy some more.
 
New/used dashpad arrived today. Thanks FOAB.

Gonna test out my wiring harness over the next couple weeks got a race this weekend so wont get much done but everything should be ready to crank it up!
 
cosworth said:
It looks like the rebuilt engine that came with my car was a truck 318 judging by the pan (has the sump at the rear) the engine mounts are different than whats on the block that came out of it.....

Anyone have experience with this? I want to get the block in the car soon as im unfortunately just going to have to put it together quickly for now and use it as a driver.
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I also had a truck 318 in my 70 Valiant/Duster. It came out of an old Dodge PowerWagon and was one healthy little engine. If the pan is backwards, take the one from your old 318 with pump and replace them on the truck engine.
 
I used the rust convertor that advance auto sells. I used it on my 37 Dodge on the cowl and cowl vent, dash and back of dash, and a few other places. I let it sit 24 hours or so, then run a fine sandpaper over it, primered and painted the car with a base coat, clear coat, never had another problem with rust in those areas.
 
I had the original engine so still had the parts to swap it into the Duster. The engine had been freshly rebuilt with flat-top pistons that move it up in the hole compression is better than stock. Both rear lower quarters have to be replaced but im going to get it running for now and work on it as I have time.
 
Got a little work done today, finished the headers got the clutch linkages installed and adjusted. Reworked the engine harness everythings buttoned up jus tneed to prime the engine to crank it but im waiting on a new mastercylinder/power booster to show up before I do. Radiator I was sold does not fit my car its to wide I think the radiator in the car now is a /6...

Theres a couple circuits im not sure about if anyone knows please chime in its the two boxes i took close up pictures of.

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On your second picture, if that came off the fender well, down towards the battery, it is most likely the starter relay. Can't be for sure unless we could see the top where all the wires attach.

And if it was a non AC car, it could have had that smaller radiator in it. I had a 71 Duster that was a 318 no frills car (no AC/PS/PB) and it had the smaller of the 2 radiators.
 
Thanks for the information on the radiator, The 2nd picture is not the starter relay (the starter relay is in picture 4 next to battery tray.) I think the gray box in picture one has something to do with the automatic transmission the car this harness came from had as it in the same plug line as the neutral safety switch the manual my car has take the 2 prong neutral safety plug.

The radiator is possible since my car was originally no powersteering,no power brakes, and the AC was a dealer installed unit.
 
On another note can anyone with a 2 belt altenator show me a picture of their bracket setup on a SBM
 
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