2 barrel , 4 barrel, whose got the answer?

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Tree-fiddy? For oem 6 pack ? Maybe 1200-1500, plus linkages, plus carbs etc etc.
it was a joke...

i bought a complete set up minus the air cleaner about a year ago for around 3K and i thought that to be a very fair deal-- it was an OG manifold and included all the linkage.

intakes are usually in the 500ish range and on up for #'s units and then you have the carbs, figure another 1K plus (obvs. more if the #'s be what they need to be) then linkage and an air cleaner.
 
The TQ & QJ are great carbs, but no longer available new or with a jetting kit.

I would use a dual plane 4 bbl intake such as the Performer [ not the RPM ] with the Edel 600 #1400. This has an elec choke & is jetted for max economy. It also has all the reqd ports: ported & man vacuum, PCV, brake booster.

To best utilise the features of HEI, use an E core coil such as MSD #8207, no bal res.

Use 0.060" plug gaps.
i heard .045 gap on the plugs? can i really go to .060?
 
i heard .045 gap on the plugs? can i really go to .060?
sure. if the system is in tip top shape and dialed in.

however, you'll likely gain nothing from it and just wear out the ignition components faster.

stick with 45 and you'll be fine.
 
Yes, you will be fine with 060 gaps with the low compression engine. GM specified 080 gaps for some engines.
 
yes but i dont hav e an a body. someone left the door open and i snuck in. (dodge van).
you fols know the small block, wish i had found you last year
Put a six pack on a dodge van and leave the doghouse off. No wait.....tunnel ram. Yeah.
 
Yes, you will be fine with 060 gaps with the low compression engine. GM specified 080 gaps for some engines.
Sure, with crappy parts store wires, cap and rotor, run .060 gaps. Let's see how long that lasts.
 
Why not swap to a Pertronix brand or knockoff distributor? Ready to run, has the ignition embedded into the distributor, has built in adjustable rev limiter and a simple two wire hookup.
I have used them on several cars. This setup eliminates all the lean burn wiring, ballast resistor, and the Mopar orange and chrome boxes which are kind odf sketchy these days.

Here is one from speedway motors, has a small cap for better clearance, includes new plug wires, distributor, coil and bracket. Click the photo for details.

1735311986811.png
 
Why not swap to a Pertronix brand or knockoff distributor? Ready to run, has the ignition embedded into the distributor, has built in adjustable rev limiter and a simple two wire hookup.
I have used them on several cars. This setup eliminates all the lean burn wiring, ballast resistor, and the Mopar orange and chrome boxes which are kind odf sketchy these days.

Here is one from speedway motors, has a small cap for better clearance, includes new plug wires, distributor, coil and bracket. Click the photo for details.

View attachment 1716344494
i get it however, already have a new dist, cap rotor wires hei unit new coil. just need the carb for the vacuum and i can tear into it. this is what some would call low budet, tho i am goingh with new parts, not wrecking yard stuff. and all of what i’m doing has been done p
before , i’m just following the script.
I would love a 6 pack, maybe fabricate a plexiglass dog house? but the manifold and carbs would be more than (almost) what ive paid for the van. still, nice to dream. so far i have under 250 in what ive gotten toghether (minus carb). for now i want to go with a rebuilt 2280 (2 barrel), get it back running and some miles on it. just to work out any kinks. then perhaps later this year or even next winter, swap over to a 4 barrel. think i got a line on those parts right now. why not do it all one time? just tryinmg to minimize what i change a little at a time. easier to resolve issues by changing one thing at a time.


by doing what i’m doing i do elminate the leanburn system entirely. taking it back to a preburn configuration.
 
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