2 barrel , 4 barrel, whose got the answer?

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4spdragtop said:
Tree-fiddy? For oem 6 pack ? Maybe 1200-1500, plus linkages, plus carbs etc etc.
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it was a joke...

i bought a complete set up minus the air cleaner about a year ago for around 3K and i thought that to be a very fair deal-- it was an OG manifold and included all the linkage.

intakes are usually in the 500ish range and on up for #'s units and then you have the carbs, figure another 1K plus (obvs. more if the #'s be what they need to be) then linkage and an air cleaner.
 
Bewy said:
The TQ & QJ are great carbs, but no longer available new or with a jetting kit.

I would use a dual plane 4 bbl intake such as the Performer [ not the RPM ] with the Edel 600 #1400. This has an elec choke & is jetted for max economy. It also has all the reqd ports: ported & man vacuum, PCV, brake booster.

To best utilise the features of HEI, use an E core coil such as MSD #8207, no bal res.

Use 0.060" plug gaps.
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i heard .045 gap on the plugs? can i really go to .060?
 
Yes, you will be fine with 060 gaps with the low compression engine. GM specified 080 gaps for some engines.
 
palani said:
yes but i dont hav e an a body. someone left the door open and i snuck in. (dodge van).
you fols know the small block, wish i had found you last year
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Put a six pack on a dodge van and leave the doghouse off. No wait.....tunnel ram. Yeah.
 
Bewy said:
Yes, you will be fine with 060 gaps with the low compression engine. GM specified 080 gaps for some engines.
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Sure, with crappy parts store wires, cap and rotor, run .060 gaps. Let's see how long that lasts.
 
Why not swap to a Pertronix brand or knockoff distributor? Ready to run, has the ignition embedded into the distributor, has built in adjustable rev limiter and a simple two wire hookup.
I have used them on several cars. This setup eliminates all the lean burn wiring, ballast resistor, and the Mopar orange and chrome boxes which are kind odf sketchy these days.

Here is one from speedway motors, has a small cap for better clearance, includes new plug wires, distributor, coil and bracket. Click the photo for details.

1735311986811.png
 
Heywodja said:
Why not swap to a Pertronix brand or knockoff distributor? Ready to run, has the ignition embedded into the distributor, has built in adjustable rev limiter and a simple two wire hookup.
I have used them on several cars. This setup eliminates all the lean burn wiring, ballast resistor, and the Mopar orange and chrome boxes which are kind odf sketchy these days.

Here is one from speedway motors, has a small cap for better clearance, includes new plug wires, distributor, coil and bracket. Click the photo for details.

View attachment 1716344494
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i get it however, already have a new dist, cap rotor wires hei unit new coil. just need the carb for the vacuum and i can tear into it. this is what some would call low budet, tho i am goingh with new parts, not wrecking yard stuff. and all of what i’m doing has been done p
before , i’m just following the script.
I would love a 6 pack, maybe fabricate a plexiglass dog house? but the manifold and carbs would be more than (almost) what ive paid for the van. still, nice to dream. so far i have under 250 in what ive gotten toghether (minus carb). for now i want to go with a rebuilt 2280 (2 barrel), get it back running and some miles on it. just to work out any kinks. then perhaps later this year or even next winter, swap over to a 4 barrel. think i got a line on those parts right now. why not do it all one time? just tryinmg to minimize what i change a little at a time. easier to resolve issues by changing one thing at a time.


by doing what i’m doing i do elminate the leanburn system entirely. taking it back to a preburn configuration.
 
Bewy and my brother both told me to open my plug gaps up to .060 so I tried it!
My 410 has approximately 11.5 to one compression.
It idled great and felt a little better in normal driving. But when I stood on it at high revs it back fired badly. At first I didnt understand what was wrong but I reduced the gaps to 45 and then it performed as before.
The engine makes about 550hp and revs to an easy 6500 but with those gaps it just blew out the spark at high revs and loads. I have an ice ignition system that is fully programable and supposedly runs 7 amp system but still would not fire those plugs at high revs in this engine at those large gaps. Yes a low comp engine may be a different matter.
 
Gold Rush said:
I managed to convert a two barrel kickdown linkage to the Holley 4150 on my 318 car back when I was only 18. It's not too hard to do if you have a bit of mechanical knowhow.

The hardest part in my opinion is properly hooking up your throttle cable. You tend to have to clamp it the cable into the bracket on the sleeve, which tends to cause problems. That being said, my 71 Satellite Sebring has been driven like that for the past 6 years and hasn't broken the cable yet.
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Not sure on the 83' vans, but the 70's had a rod throttle set up. My 72' had a 318 and I replaced it with a 340 and had to fabricate by welding on extension to the carb connection and yes I had to adjust the kickdown. Mileage, the 318 got 14-16 and the 340 got 10-12. All depends on how much fun I wanted.
 
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