I bought my truck new and have the unlimited lifetime powertrain warranty, at 280K the trans went out and at 340K the engine gave up, stuck valve. Both replaced under warranty and my deductible was $200 on each. The broken studs are not part of the warranty but the warped manifold was and it was due to broken studs. My warranty is still in affect and I have 406K on it now...
That makes me feel better...I've been averaging 11.4 around town
The headers I'm looking at come with a new Y pipe, but I don't believe there is any flex in it
I replaced the bolts and steel gasket with factory parts myself. They quoted $275 to do it so I said no, just sell me the parts. I think the gasket and two bolts came to $60
but I took them anyway. One bolt sheared but I got it out with some heat. Took ten minutes. They also quoted the side mirror glass for $467. Part is about $220 and takes ten minutes to change. Their labor charges are out of control.
I remember when i bought the dougs for the duster...yeah, seems like couch cash compared to these
All the manufacturers have had issues for years. Smaller metric bolts seem to be an issue.
That's awesome; a lot of people have kept their vehicles from that era and cashed in on having the warranty. Not everyone is as lucky, as sometimes they have been looking at the value of the vehicle vs cost of repair and buying out the customer. Those that really won out on the warranty - the ones that bought the "Max Care Lifetime " service contract...
Just had one of my V10 fords in for the same.
THere was a fellow on my tool route that would travel around to the shops that had broken studs in heads. He had a small tig welder. He could weld to the broken stud even if it was broken off below the surface, build up weld, and eventually weld a washer and nut so the fastener could be removed. Years ago he was getting $100 a removal. He had very few failures. I have heard of that being done with a wire welder as well but the tig gun is so much smaller in those hard to get places.
Yup, and you can use a stick welder to get into tight places too. We did hundreds of broken bolts on air valve blocks on the railcars that way. I don't remember any failures either. Even when the stud was broken below the block.
When they are broken below the surface is where the tig comes in handy. Attach a blob of weld to the broken bolt and keep building your way out of the hole.
Ford has many issues with bolts, as head bolts and lug nuts are only to be used once, then need new ones once removed. This statement goes back a few years. VW has the same issue with bolts. As someone stated, Dodge or RAM trucks has an issue with exhaust bolts. So the $500.00 question is, do you change them out now before they break and possible breaking a couple while doing so or wait until they break?
The last 20 years all the American manufacturers have had broken exhaust manifold bolts. My Dakota 3.9 Magnum V6 has a few I need to deal with.
These bolts generally come out OK but break due to expansion of the manifold flange and movement of the manifold length wise on the head due to heating and cooling cycles. Replacing the bolts before they break could be an idea, but you never know when they will break. I put an antiseize under the bolt heads to allow the manifold to slid under the bolt heads.
Newer engines generally use 8mm or 5/16" manifold bolts. Just not enough meat in them. Not all will fail, but enough it is a problem. For those that fail, a warranty repair of removing the affected manifold to get the broken bolt out, replace all the bolts on that side with a new gasket is peanuts compared to the cost of the steel they saved. Most seem to get past the warranty period so it is not their problem.
why do i feel i need to see a tictok dance with that?Manifolds go tic tic tic
Clock goes tic tic tic
