2017 Ram ball joints vs complete LCA

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4spdragtop

4spdragtop

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Hey, looking for some advice here as to which way to go. Truck developed slight wobble(enough to foam beer while driving) :lol:
So I pulled tire and all looks good brake wise, so I'm fingering it's the LBJ. Truck only has 130kms(80k miles).
I can get lifetime LBJ for approx $103, OR lifetime LCA assy for $400.
Both are Mevotech TTX line(heavy duty).
There is also a cheaper line of Mevotech that's lifetime for the LBJ, it's $70.
Do you think it's worth the extra $$ to get a complete LCA?
I would do both sides
Thanks
Steve
 
i'm lazy, so i'd get the whole encharito with lifetime.

i've not done one, but i'm led to believe that doing joints on those is a right *****. and that's not something i'd like to find out the hard way.

basically, it's what's your time worth: 103 + the time to R&R the joint AND the bushings-- you're doing the bushings too, right? versus a straight R&R job, and if/when things go round and brown you just pop that sucker off and roll a new unit right in there.

i just did a 95 exploder front end. the complete mevotech lifetime arm was only about $40 more than just the joints/bushings. to me that's money ahead to not have to wrassle an arm and dick around with the press.

i mean yeah, if you're going straight up low rent, and you value your time at $0 then i totally get it that $140 is less than $800
 
Thanks JYH, yeah my times worth something even if the work quality is lacking lol.
The only other pieces to replace in the LCA after the BJ, is the bushings. Which are about $10-15 each, so I would do them at same time as BJ if I do them separately.
I have a press at work(10 min away) that I can use. Or we can do "loan a tool" at a place up here.
Oh yeah, never thought to ask if Lifetime bushings are available if bought separately.
Thanks again.
junkyardhero said:
i'm lazy, so i'd get the whole encharito with lifetime.

i've not done one, but i'm led to believe that doing joints on those is a right *****. and that's not something i'd like to find out the hard way.

basically, it's what's your time worth: 103 + the time to R&R the joint AND the bushings-- you're doing the bushings too, right? versus a straight R&R job, and if/when things go round and brown you just pop that sucker off and roll a new unit right in there.

i just did a 95 exploder front end. the complete mevotech lifetime arm was only about $40 more than just the joints/bushings. to me that's money ahead to not have to wrassle an arm and dick around with the press.

i mean yeah, if you're going straight up low rent, and you value your time at $0 then i totally get it that $140 is less than $800
Click to expand...
 
I just did my whole suspension at 113k. I did only the lower ball joints. But on the upper I replaced the whole arm with an eccentric kit to help hold alignment.

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I'd just do the ball joints. That's why I bought the tools and learned how to use them. Yeah, at $600 bucks difference, it's worth my time :)
 
Don't the upper bushings have the same wear and age as the ball joints? I'd do the whole frakkin thing.
 
4spdragtop said:
Hey, looking for some advice here as to which way to go. Truck developed slight wobble(enough to foam beer while driving) :lol:
So I pulled tire and all looks good brake wise, so I'm fingering it's the LBJ. Truck only has 130kms(80k miles).
I can get lifetime LBJ for approx $103, OR lifetime LCA assy for $400.
Both are Mevotech TTX line(heavy duty).
There is also a cheaper line of Mevotech that's lifetime for the LBJ, it's $70.
Do you think it's worth the extra $$ to get a complete LCA?
I would do both sides
Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...
Is the ball joint actually showing wear or looseness? If not, I would rotate the tires front to rear and see if the wobble changes. Does not matter how many miles are on the tires for them be a possible cause of a wobble or shake.

If the ball joint is worn you just need to pick the replacement method you think you are comfortable with. Either way is perfectly acceptable IF the new ball joint fits tightly into the old control arm. If you try doing just the ball joint and it goes in too easy, you really should replace the control arm. Sometimes that motivates people to replace the whole arm so it can be a one and done repair.
 
Oh look at you Meester Fancy with a hoist and all that lol :poke:Eccentric kit? You marked your old parts prior to removal to install new parts in the same position?
Looks great by the way.
Oldmanmopar said:
I just did my whole suspension at 113k. I did only the lower ball joints. But on the upper I replaced the whole arm with an eccentric kit to help hold alignment.

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Click to expand...
That's what I'm thinking Troy. $300 difference each side and I only have to buy bushings?
Thanks guys
CFD244 said:
I'd just do the ball joints. That's why I bought the tools and learned how to use them. Yeah, at $600 bucks difference, it's worth my time :)
Click to expand...
 
From what I've read the LBJ'S take the brunt of abuse from the road. The tops are "spared" some of the abuse. Makes sense to my thick skull??
RustyRatRod said:
Don't the upper bushings have the same wear and age as the ball joints? I'd do the whole frakkin thing.
Click to expand...
Yeah the wobble is in rh front. I couldn't notice any looseness when I removed tire. I am thinking swap side to side?
Bobzilla said:
Is the ball joint actually showing wear or looseness? If not, I would rotate the tires front to rear and see if the wobble changes. Does not matter how many miles are on the tires for them be a possible cause of a wobble or shake.

If the ball joint is worn you just need to pick the replacement method you think you are comfortable with. Either way is perfectly acceptable IF the new ball joint fits tightly into the old control arm. If you try doing just the ball joint and it goes in too easy, you really should replace the control arm. Sometimes that motivates people to replace the whole arm so it can be a one and done repair.
Click to expand...
 
BTW....Make sure that you measure the ball joints to make sure that is your problem. I would suspect that the slop would be pretty obvious if you can feel it when driving.

Wheel bearing maybe?
 
4spdragtop said:
From what I've read the LBJ'S take the brunt of abuse from the road. The tops are "spared" some of the abuse. Makes sense to my thick skull??

Yeah the wobble is in rh front. I couldn't notice any looseness when I removed tire. I am thinking swap side to side?
Click to expand...
You're correct on that. The uppers just kinda "hang" there. I went back and noticed I misunderstood your post. Somehow, I thought we were discussing the upper arms. Maybe I need another shot of liquor. LOL
 
Another shot won't make you a bad person!
RustyRatRod said:
You're correct on that. The uppers just kinda "hang" there. I went back and noticed I misunderstood your post. Somehow, I thought we were discussing the upper arms. Maybe I need another shot of liquor. LOL
Click to expand...
 
Yep, could be right Troy. No noise tho, I thought there would be a growl with bearing? Stupid question how do u measure a wheel bearing? I've always just replaced them(or not)
CFD244 said:
BTW....Make sure that you measure the ball joints to make sure that is your problem. I would suspect that the slop would be pretty obvious if you can feel it when driving.

Wheel bearing maybe?
Click to expand...
 
Hey Steve, at Napa, we sell the TTX and they are a very good quality part. We also sell Fleet brand and they are also very good. The Fleet brand seems to be just a little better than the TTX. The Napa white box(PCC) is junk. The Napa chassis is a little better but not on the same level as TTX/Fleet brands. Some of the TTX also comes with the install tool.
 
Thanks Rick, yeah the parts guy on phone said that TTX is good stuff. That bj is $100, the "other" Mevotech is $67 but still lifetime.
Thanks for the review! :thumbsup:
Sidenote, he told me that Walker has sold Moog and now owned by Inteco??(spelling)
rbkt65 said:
Hey Steve, at Napa, we sell the TTX and they are a very good quality part. We also sell Fleet brand and they are also very good. The Fleet brand seems to be just a little better than the TTX. The Napa white box(PCC) is junk. The Napa chassis is a little better but not on the same level as TTX/Fleet brands. Some of the TTX also comes with the install tool.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
From what I've read the LBJ'S take the brunt of abuse from the road. The tops are "spared" some of the abuse. Makes sense to my thick skull??

Yeah the wobble is in rh front. I couldn't notice any looseness when I removed tire. I am thinking swap side to side?
Click to expand...
The lower ball joint on that truck is "loaded" so you have to "unload" it to check it for wear. Jack placed under the lower control arm itself as close to the ball joint as possible will push up on the spring and that will unload the lower ball joint. Then you can check the ball joint for looseness. Make sure the jack is in a good spot by shaking the truck a little before you put your hand under the tire to shake it. You can also pry up and down with a pry bar under the tire. The control arm is not flat there and they are little tricky to get the jack in a good spot.
Front to rear tire rotation is preferred here because if one front tire is causing it and you swap them side to side it can feel the same and mislead you.
 
I did jack it up on the frame and everything was "hanging". I tried the pry bar under the tire and didn't notice any excessive movement. I'll try it again and swap front to rear.
Thanks.
Bobzilla said:
The lower ball joint on that truck is "loaded" so you have to "unload" it to check it for wear. Jack placed under the lower control arm itself as close to the ball joint as possible will push up on the spring and that will unload the lower ball joint. Then you can check the ball joint for looseness. Make sure the jack is in a good spot by shaking the truck a little before you put your hand under the tire to shake it. You can also pry up and down with a pry bar under the tire. The control arm is not flat there and they are little tricky to get the jack in a good spot.
Front to rear tire rotation is preferred here because if one front tire is causing it and you swap them side to side it can feel the same and mislead you.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
I did jack it up on the frame and everything was "hanging". I tried the pry bar under the tire and didn't notice any excessive movement. I'll try it again and swap front to rear.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Yup. Jacking under the frame causes everything to bind together under tension from the coil spring. You could still have a worn lower ball joint, but trying to help make sure before you spend the money.
 
I just did 4 ball joints on my 12 1/2 ton and much cheaper than what the OP said h could get them for. I'm for just changing what needs to be. No bent control arms, no rotted out ones, ball joints and bushings available separately (not just as an assembly) so I always rebuild my original when I can. Wasn't a bad job to do at all on a Saturday afternoon
 
4spdragtop said:
Hey, looking for some advice here as to which way to go. Truck developed slight wobble(enough to foam beer while driving) :lol:
So I pulled tire and all looks good brake wise, so I'm fingering it's the LBJ. Truck only has 130kms(80k miles).
I can get lifetime LBJ for approx $103, OR lifetime LCA assy for $400.
Both are Mevotech TTX line(heavy duty).
There is also a cheaper line of Mevotech that's lifetime for the LBJ, it's $70.
Do you think it's worth the extra $$ to get a complete LCA?
I would do both sides
Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...
Is it a diesel? Loaded is the way to go. Might as well replace both sides
 
Figured I would update this, turned out to be tire. Thanks everyone and @Bobzilla . Switched front and rear tires on pass side and wobble "changed" to the rear so to speak. 130,000 kms on shitty GY Wranglers....I would NEVER recommend those shitty tires lol(never liked them since new) but they were on truck since new.
 
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