273 Build

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Thanks John. "I'm not worthy" (Wayne's World) {SNL}
I forgot to tell you, I replaced the frost plugs in the heads and the rear cam plug. For those of you that have ever rebuilt a small wedge the rear cam plugs are a shallow disc that falls out of the cam bearing bore until you seal it with silicone and expand it with a large drift punch. I tried to find a shallow cup plug but it is an odd size (LIKE 57/64 or something like that but that was a no go. I asked an old Mopar guy on my tool route and he told me how it was done. "A
big drift punch and a hammer and smash the center flat".

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I need to learn how to download videos. Motion and sound is a bonus. Keep us
posted on your firing. Mike
 
toolmanmike said:
Thanks John. "I'm not worthy" (Wayne's World) {SNL}
I forgot to tell you, I replaced the frost plugs in the heads and the rear cam plug. For those of you that have ever rebuilt a small wedge the rear cam plugs are a shallow disc that falls out of the cam bearing bore until you seal it with silicone and expand it with a large drift punch. I tried to find a shallow cup plug but it is an odd size (LIKE 57/64 or something like that but that was a no go. I asked an old Mopar guy on my tool route and he told me how it was done. "A
big drift punch and a hammer and smash the center flat".
Click to expand...

Now that is some "I'm not worthy" information! That is a builders secret for sure.
Aloha
 
This ToolmanMike guy is to blame for my addiction to my 66 Dart!It,s all your fault Mike!LOL.Motors looking good,bet you can,t wait to try it out!Cheers my friend!:cheers:
 
Looks good. I tried to find a shallow cup plug also, couldnt, ended up with the same one you did. Worried me putting it in that I would dent it in too much.

Mines ready to put in the car, once I get the under-hood cleaned up.
 
Just a few more photos. I have been working on the short block as time allows.
(mostly checking clearances) I need to check compression ratio so I know which head gasket to use but I don't have my cc kit yet. I will assemble the pistons, rods and rings this weekend and get the short block a step closer. I need to sort through my parts and get organized to glass bead. My battery was dead in my camera so I took these with my cell phone. Not too good. I know, they're just pics of cylinder heads. I haven't built one before that is this involved. Those of you who have built one know I am having the time of my life with this engine. I enjoy working on my Dart but this really fun! toolman

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Looking pretty good.

CC Kit. Hmmm. I used Vaseline, a clear CD (Usually top in the stack) and a 50CC Syringe with Baby Oil to CC mine.

Put vaseline around the flat spot on the head, Press the CD on top and squish out any extra. Make sure lts level. Fill with syringe until full. Good way to get measurement within +/- 1 CC.
 
I've been looking for a cc syringe but haven't been able to find one. Everything is ml. I went to a hardware store and found checking springs for the valves.
 
Thanks chewy. I installed pistons, rods, oil pump, and pick up so far today. I always get a little nervous when I assemble the pistons and rods and install the rings. I always second guess myself as to whether I did everything correct. I double checked everything I did but it's still easy to put a ring on upside down or something like that.
 
A few more photos. I need to get the regular camera. My cell phone doesn't take that good of photos.

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What sort of valve reliefs do they have? Are they identical or are there intake and exh? Hard to tell from the pics...
 
moper said:
What sort of valve reliefs do they have? Are they identical or are there intake and exh? Hard to tell from the pics...
Click to expand...

The Egge 10.5:1 pistons have the same sized valve reliefs. They probably did that so you can reverse the pistons to the other cylinder bank and make it sound like a diesel. LOL

mvh said:
Where did you get the windage tray?
Click to expand...

The windage tray came from Summit. It's a Mopar Performance piece.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529790/
 
Dropped my engine off at the machine shop today. went over all the parameters and expectations of my 273 build. The engine is untouched and appears to have no wear anywhere. bore miked at stock with no wear. I will order .040 over 10.5:1 Egge pistons ane we will balance the engine, new exhaust valves and hardened seats in the heads. Since we are changing exhaust valves anyway, Dave is going to check on going up in size on the exhaust valve. Going to stay with a solid cam setup, just trying to make that decision now. Thinking of .45+ lift with 110 lobe seperation and such. lots of options here i am trying to decide on but it is good to have the engine in the machine shop finally! Now to do the front suspension while I wait---------
It is shure fun watching this thread, what a great build!
Rat:read2:
 
Sounds like you're as excited as me. LOL You have a great combo going there.
I was seriously thinking about a bigger cam for mine but I was impressed at the Isky E4's power and torque for a cam that's pretty close to the stock cam. Schneider has a good looking flat tappet cam #14202 (264/480/110) that would
be my second choice. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/ (scroll down to flat tappet cams). That might be something for you to try. Mike
 
Hey Toolman! I am jealous of your progress!! My 273 has been done for 4 months and is sitting on the engine stand waiting for the old /6 to get the heck out of it's way! I am glad to see your thread and will follow it closely until I see the YouTube video of you smoking your old radials off the back of that Dart.
 
poisondart64 said:
Hey Toolman! I am jealous of your progress!! My 273 has been done for 4 months and is sitting on the engine stand waiting for the old /6 to get the heck out of it's way! I am glad to see your thread and will follow it closely until I see the YouTube video of you smoking your old radials off the back of that Dart.
Click to expand...

I've got you beat! My has been on the stand for 6 months+ and the engine bay is sitting there looking like a baby bird, saying feed me!
 
I wish I had more time. I have been busy at home and I have a transmission out of my tool truck which has been a major pain. I got my cc kit today so hopefully I can find the time to find what my true compression ratio is so I know which head gaskets to install. The heads are done, the cam has been degreed and except for blasting some pulleys and brackets, I should be able to finish it up soon if I can stay at it. You are way ahead by having yours done . Hope you can make the swap and get her running so I can see it at a show this summer. Mike
 
Busy, I hear that. The only time I get anymore is late at night. Been putting in the long hours and required travel for the job. 2 days a week to do stuff to the car, Plus have the family, just isnt condusive to getting things done.

I assembled mine a couple weeks ago when on vacation. Went slower than i wanted, but made sure todo it right and not hurry. So, now, will be sitting for at least 3-4 weeks while I slowly get the engine compartment up to snuff. Pulling out the 318/4Speed this weekend to get started on stripping it. (Get to buy an electric D/A) . New tools, always a plus!!! Either that, Or I start re-sealing the trans. Then go tool shopping weekend after next.
 
I just announced to my family that tomorrow after lunch I am going to check the compression on my 273. (Sometimes you just have to be assertive) LOL
I have two different head gaskets and I need to know which to install. (I don't want too much compression) Mike
 
Here's a couple of shots of the timing chain tensioner.

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I guess If the tensioner doesn't work out I can always change it back to original. All the new engines have them and they were recommended in a Mopar engine book. The same with the 1/64th" hole in the left oil galley to keep the
fuel pump eccentric lubed. If it causes too much oil in the timing cover and lots of oil leaks I will have to change it back to the way it was in 1966. I checked my actual compression today with a 100 cc graduated cylinder. I wanted to know whether I should use the fat "perma-torque blue" head gaskets or the thin
Mopar gaskets. The thin ones are what I want. I used the full fill method as per the Isky cc kit. Put the piston at tdc, install the head and torque it with the gasket of choice and tip the block up so that the spark plug hole is straight up. Use the graduated cylinder and fill the chamber to the bottom of the plug threads. Then spin the crank till the piston is at bottom dead center. Fill the cylinder to the bottom of the plug hole threads keeping track of the fluid amount both times. Divide the full cylinder number by the combustion chamber number and you have your true compression ratio. The thicker perma-torque gasket produced a 9.22 comp. ratio and the thinner Mopar gasket had a 9.67 ratio. That's the one I'll use. I'm glad the machine shop shaved .030 off the heads! LOL I used ATF for fluid and light grease to seal the edge of the piston to the bore. I guess I was a bit disappointed the the ratio wasn't closer to 10.5:1 but grinding seats and the dish of the new valves and the thickness and cylinder diameter of the head gaskets all loose compression. Who knows what the factory 10.5 ratio really was. It will be pump gas friendly for sure. Mike
 
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