With the shape of the chamber, you would have to do some carving to put a bigger intake valve in. There sure can't be much flow on the chamber wall side of the valve. I would call it shrouding.
302 head progress and questions
- Thread starter jrc4y4
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Ok good to know. Have you done the exhaust side yet? That’s my next step. Then bring to the machine shop as I can’t do a valve job. Have my springs checked out and see if they’re right for my cam, change the bad valve and guide I have, etc. thanks for the direction!
PRH
Well-Known Member
If you’re really using a drill....... the pessimist in me thinks you’re only going to get so far with that.
How about a pic of what you’re using, and of the burs.
IMO........ most people trying their hand at porting for the first time are over zealous, and bite off too much.
They often discover after they’re about 1/2 way through the job that it’s not glamorous work.
Especially if you’re working with tools not really designed for the task at hand.
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I got access to some new carbide bits and a Milwaukee with like 4 battery packs. As it slows down I swap out and charge the old pack. Don’t have access to a large enough air compressor. Agreed, it definitely isn’t glamorous work, but I did expect to be further along after the time I had invested. Can take pics when I get back to the shop maybe this weekend.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Use some trans fluid to help cut faster if need be. I used a Black and Decker drill my Grandpa gave me when I did my first attempt at porting a slant 6. The head flowed 175cfm when I tested it decades later 'I still have the head too' . Good luck.
Now the secrets come out! Lol. Awesome, appreciate the tip. What do the 302s flow stock? I assume similar to my factory 318 72 heads
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I read some stuff on here one too many times and decided to make this 'yet to be finished' series. Used my phone, so turn it up.
"A novelty head you're a nerd about" Love it! 
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I think people do that, a lot. That's fine but admit it at least."A novelty head you're a nerd about" Love it!
I should have also said "or have to" since I've done the 273 1.88/1.50 head over 4.04 318.
Those were the only parts he had.
175 @ 6'' lift. 
You have to get it open that far to get past the wall.
You have to get it open that far to get past the wall.
I traded a few electric die grinders for my head work other wise I wouldn't have bothered. I'm sure it made a difference but I have nothing to compare it to. I should have had a port flowed so I would at least have some numbers.I think people do that, a lot. That's fine but admit it at least.
I should have also said "or have to" since I've done the 273 1.88/1.50 head over 4.04 318.
Those were the only parts he had.
PRH
Well-Known Member
My first endeavor at porting was done in the basement of the house I was renting in the mid-80’s.
I had no clue as to what I was doing, but was basically trying to copy some pics from a magazine article.
I used a cheap die grinder and an old craftsman 1hp air compressor.
I would think an air grinder running on 30psi or so would still spin faster than a cordless drill, and be easier to control.
I think I had one tree shaped burr, and I had an assortment of stones.
They were 906 heads and I basically just blended bowls where the machining met the as cast port.
I had no clue as to what I was doing, but was basically trying to copy some pics from a magazine article.
I used a cheap die grinder and an old craftsman 1hp air compressor.
I would think an air grinder running on 30psi or so would still spin faster than a cordless drill, and be easier to control.
I think I had one tree shaped burr, and I had an assortment of stones.
They were 906 heads and I basically just blended bowls where the machining met the as cast port.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Any bit helps. What ever you did, I'm sure it helped. Some heads respond well to only the right work... while others '318' respond well to any work.
Even after having a flowbench I was missing something. I could do ok but not were I thought they should be. Looking at pictures only got you so far because most of the guys I followed on even Yellowbullet were in the business so they knew what and how much they could show you. What finally did sing in was after taking molds of some ports I did so I could see the port in 3D and take it in the house with me to study. I had a note pad by my bed and I can’t tell you how many times I woke up at night snd made a sketch or note for my next attempt. That’s why now if I’m trying to show someone something I take pictures from every possible angle.
You have probably seen these before. They were a mis matched set of heads. I found a later head and a newer rod bearing on one hole. Something happened along the way> LOL
PRH
Well-Known Member
Imo, there isn’t any way to take pics of the short turn that will actually illustrate the shape you’re going after.
A subtle change that keeps the port from going turbulent.......or not...... isn’t really visible by looking from the bowl side, or port side.
I make those adjustments based on “feel”.
Without access to a flow bench, as a means to determine what shapes work and what shapes don’t, I don’t see how you’d ever “get there”.
That’s not to say you can’t make improvements without a bench, but if you’re working on heads that have the tendency to have a turbulence issue...... it’s unlikely you’ll ever get them to be “great” without that knowledge base gleaned from flow bench testing.
A subtle change that keeps the port from going turbulent.......or not...... isn’t really visible by looking from the bowl side, or port side.
I make those adjustments based on “feel”.
Without access to a flow bench, as a means to determine what shapes work and what shapes don’t, I don’t see how you’d ever “get there”.
That’s not to say you can’t make improvements without a bench, but if you’re working on heads that have the tendency to have a turbulence issue...... it’s unlikely you’ll ever get them to be “great” without that knowledge base gleaned from flow bench testing.
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This.^^
Thanks for the input guys. I’m definitely limited in my access and understanding admittedly. Heads will go to machinist on Monday so we can discuss ideas from what I’m learning and what needs to take place. MoparOfficial when is the 3rd video coming along?
While on the subject I have a performer intake. Was planning to open the ends of the ports further to match where I’m at with the heads. What are thoughts to be considering about this before I tackle that (yes I know, buy rpm or different intake etc but ya know, money lol). I’ve talked to a few of the FAST guys and given what happens with OE intakes, I don’t see why I couldn’t open the ends up and see some gains but am interested in thoughts. Thanks for the input guys. People like you help out a ton.
While on the subject I have a performer intake. Was planning to open the ends of the ports further to match where I’m at with the heads. What are thoughts to be considering about this before I tackle that (yes I know, buy rpm or different intake etc but ya know, money lol). I’ve talked to a few of the FAST guys and given what happens with OE intakes, I don’t see why I couldn’t open the ends up and see some gains but am interested in thoughts. Thanks for the input guys. People like you help out a ton.
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Awesome I will check out his videos. Thanks!
So after watching all 3 of mopar officials videos and a few other videos and reading, I spent time in the bowls. Opened them up some and smoothed them out pretty well. I struggled with the guides and didn’t grind them down much. Just really struggled to get them grinding in a way I could gain consistency so I decided to just lightly grind and focus on the other areas. With how the bigger valves were cut, it was difficult to grind on the chamber side without damaging the seat. I nicked a seat or two during the process. I ended up just doing some light deshrouding on the chamber side.not sure it’ll even make a difference tbh. Forgive me if I’m using incorrect terms and feel free to correct me. Dropped them off at machinist and I’m having the 3 angle valve job done based on yalls recommendations. Pics not the greatest. I’m probably 18 hours into the heads. I’ve pulled a good amount of material out in areas based on recommendations. Hoping it translates to HP. Also opened up the ends of my performer intake on the walls and roof where it narrows down for 318 chambers.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Open the Bowl at the top near the roof 87% of the valve size then transition smaller towards the valve job call the throat around 89% of the seat.
Get the bowls bigger.
I'll post the next couple videos pretty quick here . Leave no ledges under the ssr and project at the final angle of the valve job.
Get the bowls bigger.
I'll post the next couple videos pretty quick here . Leave no ledges under the ssr and project at the final angle of the valve job.
I wish I had gotten better pics. I opened them up a good amount. Not sure about % though. They were kind of oblong and I tried my best to make them circular below the seat. On that short side you’re right there was a sharp edge I really had to smooth out. The more time I spent in there the more I understood some of the stuff you guys have been saying. I got them to where I was comfortable with and just asked the machinist to look them over and make sure nothings glaring to him. Your videos and mopar joes were very helpful. Few others that escape me.
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