318 Ignition

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D67Cuda

D67Cuda

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I've tried an MSD ready-to-run that failed right after I had it timed. I then tried two Pertronix Igniter II, both of which were DOA. I ran my engine successfully for over 20 years on an igniter I, but now I'm back to standard points and condenser. My engine is running, but not smoothly. Does anyone have a recommendation on what I should use for an ignition system on my Barracuda? Until I burned up a coil, the engine ran great on a Pertronix igniter I.
 
Nothing wrong with points as long as they're adjusted correctly. Where do you have the dwell set?
 
I honestly drive the factory electronic ignition (distributor, ECU, and ballast) without issue. Ever.
 
I have a @halifaxhops curved Points Distributor in mine...
Accel Coil and Autolite Plugs.
Alway's Fires right up and Idles like a Strong Mopar should.
Thanks Again Hali!

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eekvonzipper said:
I have a @halifaxhops curved Points Distributor in mine...
Accel Coil and Autolite Plugs.
Alway's Fires right up and Idles like a Strong Mopar should.
Thanks Again Hali!

View attachment 1716279039
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I ran a points distributor he curved for me in Vixen for a long time. I only changed to electronic because I had everything layin around to do it. They run the same.
 
Yep Halifaxhops is the source for a great distributor with a curve to match your specific engine and its use...
 
4spdragtop said:
Would u list the part #'s for all 3 units you are using?
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i don't really have the part numbers.

the one in my fastback is a million year old junkyard distributor from a mid 70's dart that i put a custom curve on, with an old AF mopar orange box, standard motor parts ballast and delco coil (all of this stuff has been in there for 15 years)

the one in the 71 D300 (with a 383) is a junkyard unit from a motorhome that had a 400, recurved, with a standard motor products ballast, the same junkyard ECU and a accel chrome coil.

the parts are pretty universal, as long as they're not lean burn, they'll work.
 
Thanks, got a # for the ballast and Ohms? Specs and #'s are all over the place.
318willrun said:
  • Distributor is any factory unit from '72 and up skipping the lean burn junk. You can curve them to your needs.
  • The factory ECU's are good, but I've had good luck with the Hi-Rev 7500 unit as a replacement
  • Ballast I use the factory, or just replace over the counter parts store.
forMOPAR HR7500 Electronic Ignition Control Box Dodge Plymouth Chrysler RELIABLE | eBay
View attachment 1716279041
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4spdragtop said:
Thanks, got a # for the ballast and Ohms? Specs and #'s are all over the place.
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I don't, I just buy for the car I'm going to use it on. Actually.... Actually, I cannot recall ever having to replace one. I do carry a spare. I find the systems very reliable.
 
Thanks, aftermarket coil specs are fairly consistent, but ballast resistance #'s are all over the fn place
junkyardhero said:
i don't really have the part numbers.

the one in my fastback is a million year old junkyard distributor from a mid 70's dart that i put a custom curve on, with an old AF mopar orange box, standard motor parts ballast and delco coil (all of this stuff has been in there for 15 years)

the one in the 71 D300 (with a 383) is a junkyard unit from a motorhome that had a 400, recurved, with a standard motor products ballast, the same junkyard ECU and a accel chrome coil.

the parts are pretty universal, as long as they're not lean burn, they'll work.
Click to expand...
 
4spdragtop said:
Thanks, aftermarket coil specs are fairly consistent, but ballast resistance #'s are all over the fn place
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like @318willrun i just buy for what i'm building and match it to that.

i do know that you want around 1 ohm and too much one way or the other risks overheating the coil or smoking the box.

if you're starting from scratch you might be better of buying a kit, or part of a swap kit to get the matchy-matchy part of it out of the way and then figure out a distributor.

i'm sorry, i know that's not of much help.
 
junkyardhero said:
like @318willrun i just buy for what i'm building and match it to that.

i do know that you want around 1 ohm and too much one way or the other risks overheating the coil or smoking the box.

if you're starting from scratch you might be better of buying a kit, or part of a swap kit to get the matchy-matchy part of it out of the way and then figure out a distributor.

i'm sorry, i know that's not of much help.
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I've not used this, but something like this from Summit would make the pieces compatible.
Proform Mopar Small Block 318 340 360 Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit 440-426 | eBay
 
318willrun said:
I've not used this, but something like this from Summit would make the pieces compatible.
Proform Mopar Small Block 318 340 360 Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit 440-426 | eBay
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exactly. though i'm not sure where proform's rep currently stands....

i'd probably go this route for a complete kit because even if e-berg is a bs'er he's not likely selling hot garbage parts.

www.ebay.com

ForMOPAR 340 360 318 HiPo Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge Black Brass Cap | eBay

Electronic Ignition Conversion Kit. Here's a hi-performance hot-spark hi-rev-capable (min. 7500 RPM certified) electronic ignition conversion kit for all LA angine (273 thru 360 CID) Mopars, also fits 318 Poly, and can be used for carburetor conversion on 5.2 and 5.9L Magnum V8s.
www.ebay.com
 
Sorry to hijack the OP's thread, but it's very related. So I'll try to be short.
Car is a 67 cuda, elec ignition, 70 and up charging system(alt and vr).
So can you see where I'm at? Some of these pieces need to be matched so to speak(coil and br).
I'll link the thread I started and not hijack the op's thread anymore.
Thanks guys :thumbsup:
@318willrun @junkyardhero
Elec woes, crank, no start after running then parked.
 
Couple of choices:
- use a Chrys elec dist to trigger a 4 pin GM HEI module. Very simple hook up, diagrams on the web. If the coil you want to use requires a bal res, then you need to use the bal res. Very reliable. If you are worried about module failure you can [a] carry a spare in the glove box mount a spare module next to the existing module.
- simply buy a HEI dist which are now made for Chrys engines. One wire hook up. How easy can it get?
 
Tons of ways to approach this. Points work great if you use older ones. Petronixs I are pretty much bullet proof as long as you do not hook the polarity up wrong. GM HEI works great with the proper ohm coil. Chrysler ecu all in one kits are great if a pre 90's set new ones are "authorized" and made overseas and have quality issues. Really what you wany] it to do. As for BR's 90% of the points ones are .5-.6 ohm, replacements are all over the place If not marked dont buy it, and if for a ECU depends on which one you are using (from .25-1.20) FSM should have most of the information needed. Hope it helps end some of the myths out there.

ecu III.png
 
D67Cuda said:
now I'm back to standard points and condenser. My engine is running, but not smoothly. Does anyone have a recommendation on what I should use for an ignition system on my Barracuda?
Click to expand...
Just tune it with the points ignition. If the still runs like poop with points ignition sorted, then you have other issues.
 
I’m confused. You killed 3 different ignition’s in the same chassis you are sure it the fault of the ignitions?

I ain’t buying it. While I’ve had 2 MSD boxes fail on my machine I’ve never had a a R2R or a Pertronix fail like that.

Something else is wrong.

I don’t have a clue what failed or why on the R2R deal but the Pertronix stuff is sensitive like the Mallory Unilite is.

Any and I mean ANY dirty power off the alternator and it will kill them.

Most rebuilt alternators like the parts stores carry are just junk. They use cheap junk diodes and stuff and they make dirty power.

For the Unilite Mallory developed a filter that plugs in line and stops or cleans up the dirty power or something like that.

I’d be looking at what’s killing this stuff.

I know a bad ground will kill an MSD box pretty quickly.

I’d stop blaming the ignitions and figure out why they are failing.
 
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