318 LA cam question for the mopar gear heads!

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okiemike

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I'm fixing to pull the 318 out of my 69 notchback barracuda because the valve guides need replaced for sure. So while I got it out I want to do a complete check and replace any and all parts necessary. I will go back basically stock other than if it needs to be bored to 30 over etc. I plan on taking the head and block to my machine shop to have them vatted and checked etc. I will go back with a edlebrock intake and edlebrock 600cfm 4v carb. I have just installed dual exhaust. MY QUESTION is, should I go back with the stock cam, hydraulic; duration at .050 lobe lift; 192 exh.; 181 int.; 109 degrees lobe seperation or use a
Stage 1 high performance. May not be computer compatible. Use flat followers. .050" Duration-204/214; Cam Lift-.281/.296; Lobe Center-108/116.050) these are the two options that I was given by the parts book at my auto parts store. I appreciate any insight on this. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance!
 
I used a Herbert stage 2 on my 318 and was happy with it, all other things being stock, induction was from my commando 273 4bbl. good idle more power and top end.
 
Be prepared to get a lot of response to a simple camshaft question. As 70Duster mentioned there are many choices of cams for a mild 318. Probably the most common cam is the Comp 268H Part number 20-212-2. Here's a link:http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-20-212-2/overview/make/dodge
The reason it's so popular is that it makes good power, torque and doesn't require much for special valve springs, rockers, or pushrods. With a 4 barrell, intake, and headers or a nice dual exhaust you can have a fun 318 without breaking the bank.
 
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The Summit 6900 is a great choice and very affordable.
 
I ran the Summit 1789 in my 318. It had an Edelbrock manifold a 625 AFB. and headers. It ran really nice.

Ted
 
The factory cam leaves a lot of power on the table any mild cam would be a huge improvement without sacrifice any bottom end. Comp xe262 or xe256 would also work.
 
IMO, while the Comp 268 is a great cam, it is too big for this application. I would look for something close to the old 204-214 @ .050 or there abouts.
 
I'm fixing to pull the 318 out of my 69 notchback barracuda because the valve guides need replaced for sure. So while I got it out I want to do a complete check and replace any and all parts necessary. I will go back basically stock other than if it needs to be bored to 30 over etc. I plan on taking the head and block to my machine shop to have them vatted and checked etc. I will go back with a edlebrock intake and edlebrock 600cfm 4v carb. I have just installed dual exhaust. MY QUESTION is, should I go back with the stock cam, hydraulic; duration at .050 lobe lift; 192 exh.; 181 int.; 109 degrees lobe seperation or use a
Stage 1 high performance. May not be computer compatible. Use flat followers. .050" Duration-204/214; Cam Lift-.281/.296; Lobe Center-108/116.050) these are the two options that I was given by the parts book at my auto parts store. I appreciate any insight on this. All comments welcome. Thanks in advance!

If you're staying with the 'basically' all Stock Theory,

The Comp-Cams #260-H {#20-210-2} 'High Energy' profile is highly recommended
by the Cam Technical Advisors at Comp-Cams.

Especially for a light A-Body {1969 Barracuda Notchback} with a Shipping Weight of #2900 lbs.

* Lift ...................... .440"/.440"
* Duration................ 260*/260*
* Duration @ .050" ... 212*/212*
* Overlap ................. 40*
* LSA ...................... 110*
* Centerline ............. 106*

It is a 'Great' Camshaft for a basic 318, with a good Intake, mid-sized 4-Barrel and Dual-Exhaust System.

This Camshaft provides great Torque, and with a snappy Throttle-Response.

Though you're just doing a 'basic rebuild' on the 1969 318/230 HP, it would be beneficial to have the Machine Shop deck the Block to 'specifications' with the Flat-Top Pistons
@ -.029" below deck.

The 318 requires proper Compression {9.20-1} to gain power with a
'Low-to-Mid' Street Performance Camshaft.
 
Guys I really appreciate all the good info, I'm not a very good auto mechanic, but eager to learn. I'm a multicraft maintenance technician in a industrial plant and a electrician by trade. Thanks for all the good info and its great to be able to use this forum to pick your brains. Y'all got me to thinking that I may want to take it a little further on the rebuild!
 
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