318 pulley alignment

-
S

swinger

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2007
Messages
199
Reaction score
22
I know there have been lots of posts on this topic, but in reading through them I am still unsure what I need to do next. My 318 is coming together, but my crank and water pump pulley alignment is off. I originally suspected I was going to have to space the water pump pulley out perhaps due to a shorter water pump snout. However I just put the alternator on and it seems to line up with the water pump pulley. So now I'm thinking my crank pulley needs to be further back; maybe because my damper is too thick, or maybe I didn't get is fully seated correctly?? Seems like it will be easier to resolve this issue before the engine goes back in the car... But then lord knows how my power steering pulley alignment will end up looking!
I will post a few pics of my situation shortly.
Thanks!
 
Are you mixing late/ early parts? Early, short water pump (outlet on driver side?)
 
Here's what I'm looking at:
 

Attachments

  • photo 1.JPG
    84.1 KB · Views: 1,191
  • photo 2.JPG
    71.5 KB · Views: 1,076
  • photo 3.JPG
    83.7 KB · Views: 1,099
Water pump outlet is on the passenger side; this was in a 1970 e-body. The pulleys were aligned before the rebuild. The water pump and damper were replaced, but unfortunately I don't have the old parts to compare to.
 
I dont know. Seems like it went all the way, and was torqued to spec. But I threw that second picture up in case anyone out there can tell by looking whether I dont have it on all the way....
 
The alternator is easy to align w/ spacers, so don't get hung up on it. The p.s. pump is hardest to move and may need a different pulley to align. rehrenberg sells spacer shims for the water pump pulley on ebay.

You never answered the question of what engine and accessories you have. There are multiple pulleys, even for the same year, depending on AC, p.s., etc. You have the 70+ alum water pump, as I do.

If your crank damper is the same thickness as my 65 273, you might do what I did, which is run the water pump (w/ short alum pulley) and p.s. pump (Federal) together on the outer crank groove and the alternator (2 grooves) alone on the middle groove. I have a 3rd inner groove left for AC. It looks like your crank grooves would align w/ my 2 outer grooves.
 
lemondana said:
Could it be that the balancer needs to be pulled on that much farther?
Click to expand...

swinger said:
I dont know. Seems like it went all the way, and was torqued to spec. But I threw that second picture up in case anyone out there can tell by looking whether I dont have it on all the way....
Click to expand...

I don't thing the damper is on. Maybe you got something hung up, like maybe the oil slinger keyway wasn't aligned
 
I second that the damper is not in all the way. If one looks closely at the flange you can see that it is flared to match the countour of the block. Just by sight it looks like it should go in another 1/2 or so. That should align the inner pulley with the pump and alternator. I just checked my 340 and that flared flange comes to about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch from the face of the block. So the flange is actually over the top of where on your photo we see the block curving down. Actually I should say where we see the timing cover curve.
 
Don't know if these Pics will help but Here goes. My inner most groove is in line with my Alternator's inner most groove. Looks like your Crank Pulley is flipped over. Or Mine is or they're just 2 different pulley designs.
DSC00451.jpg
DSC00449.jpg
 
My setup looks just like OwdKasD, and I had to wing it since I changed my 65 SB to alum w.p. I moved my alternator (square-back) in front of the bracket to use the inner groove (less bearing load), but recall it could have fit like OwdKasD's.
 

Attachments

  • pulleys.jpg
    110.6 KB · Views: 981
  • alt mount - small.jpg
    90.4 KB · Views: 887
I guess it's a newer 318 with a totally different Crank Pulley setup. As long as the Balancer is on and torqued correctly then it's just a matter of Spacers and Brackets to make it work. It just looks weird to me.
 
Actually, it looks exactly like my 360/ 318, non A/C engine. 'Cept mine line up!!
 
stupid question but have you tried putting a belt on it? i remember bolting mine on and standing back and thinking..$hit that isn't right. but at the end of the day the angle messes with your eyes and a belt went right on.
 
swinger said:
Here's what I'm looking at:
Click to expand...



to me it looks like the balancer isn't on all the way....

here are what your supposed to have for pulleys for a 70-up non a/c car with power steering... compare the measurements and make sure what you have is correct.

pulley2-1.jpg


pulley3.jpg


pulley1-1.jpg
 
this is how a 70-up non- a/c pulley set up should work...


rear belt: rear crank pulley, water pump, rear alt. pulley.
front belt: crank, power steering pulley.





DSC02496.jpg


DSC02498.jpg


DSC02499.jpg


DSC02500.jpg


DSC02501.jpg
 
OwdKasd said:
Don't know if these Pics will help but Here goes. My inner most groove is in line with my Alternator's inner most groove. Looks like your Crank Pulley is flipped over. Or Mine is or they're just 2 different pulley designs.
DSC00451.jpg
DSC00449.jpg
Click to expand...




that is far from correct.. your running a/c pulleys and alt. brackets without a/c... it may work ok but should not be used for a reference...
 
BillGrissom said:
My setup looks just like OwdKasD, and I had to wing it since I changed my 65 SB to alum w.p. I moved my alternator (square-back) in front of the bracket to use the inner groove (less bearing load), but recall it could have fit like OwdKasD's.
Click to expand...

lookks like all you need is the correct crank and water pump pulley to make things correct...
 
abodyjoe said:
that is far from correct.. your running a/c pulleys and alt. brackets without a/c... it may work ok but should not be used for a reference...
Click to expand...
You are right. I just threw it on so he could see another way of doing it. I hope it didn't mess him up even more.
 
OwdKasd said:
You are right. I just threw it on so he could see another way of doing it. I hope it didn't mess him up even more.
Click to expand...

thats fine.. but its not the correct way. like i said it may or may not work.. is the ratio correct now that they are mis matched? i doubtr it.. get the parts and do it correctly.. too many half assed set ups out there that cause problems. do it right the first time.. the parts are out there and not that hard to get.. all posting pics of a mis-matched mess like that does is add confusion in my opinion. people need to know how the pulleys and belts are supposed to run.

and it looks like the OP has the correct non-a/c pulleys and brackets already..
 
how much distance do you have between balancer and timing marks? If balancer is fully seated your gap there will be real close like maybe 1/8"
 
Red,

Good question. On my 340 the timing marks are on the left but the plate is real close to the damper. And the one that Abodyjoe shows is real close too. I still suspect the damper is not in all the way.
 
Thanks for all the feedback everyone. Unfortunately I have not had an opportunity to have another look at it since making my original post. When I get the chance I will try to reinstall the damper and see if it can be seated further since that seems to be the most likely cause. I'll provide an update once I do....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top