Have a stock 1989 318 with 302 heads. Wanting to do a budget build and try to get to 300HP out of it. What would you guys suggest for pistons and cam? Just looking for something that's going to be a good running street motor, nothing elaborate. Thanks all
318 question
- Thread starter Hoyt1234
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You already have the 9.2:1 cr piston package in tha '89 318 Roller lifter engine.
Stock roller Cam works great with a 1406 Edelbrock 4bbl.
Just do the 4 bbl conversion and you are good to go.
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Stock roller Cam works great with a 1406 Edelbrock 4bbl.
Just do the 4 bbl conversion and you are good to go.
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A 4 bbl conversion alone is not going to get 300 hp. No way.
I’d run with a small cam and headers to what George Jets suggested. I don’t like the stock 302 heads for this.
Depending on what head you stick with would help direct in a piston change. Kieth Black has two styles of Hyper and forged pistons designed the same in a flat top and a dome.
The same goes with the camshaft. I’d stay with a hyd roller and reuse the stock roller lifters for sure. I’d look at a intake duration @050 around 215-218*’s.
Other things like, will you use headers? What trans and gear ratio do you have as well as tire size? Cars weight?
Depending on what head you stick with would help direct in a piston change. Kieth Black has two styles of Hyper and forged pistons designed the same in a flat top and a dome.
The same goes with the camshaft. I’d stay with a hyd roller and reuse the stock roller lifters for sure. I’d look at a intake duration @050 around 215-218*’s.
Other things like, will you use headers? What trans and gear ratio do you have as well as tire size? Cars weight?
There are many opinions about how to build a _ hp 318 on this forum but very few actual timeslips and/or dyno tests. 300 hp in an A body should go easy 13s with proper gear and converter. Check here for ideas : Post your 13 sec combos or here: 318 Engine Buildup & Dyno Test - Mopar Muscle Magazine or here: Engines: 318 Street Recipes
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
302s can make 300, easier with head work! send cam to oragon or racer brown for regrind theyll help ya pick a cam! every body likes them KB hyperthermic pistons. air gap intake and carb of your liking.....300 ant hard to do!
With that in mind, (^^^) use of a 202 head, a replacement KB-167 is what I’d run with.
I had a 66 Barracuda, 318 w/302 heads, KB-167's, Comp Cams 268H hft, Weiand Action Plus intake, Edelbrock 1406 carb and headers. Heads had bigger valves (1.88/1.60) installed and a little bowl blending. Never had it on a dyno but it ran really nice, "fast according to my butt-meter".
An Edelbrock Performer and an Edelbrock 650 AFB with some headers. Either recurve your present distributor, or get a Mopar HP ignition kit with an HP distributor. Have the heads worked with a fresh valve job and have the bowls blended. Add this cam and it should get the job done. I agree with the above there's no way in hell you'll get an honest 300HP with just a 4 barrel. Ain't happenin. With the above recipe, you will surpass 300HP.
Camshaft
Camshaft
How about 4bbl and nitrous. Most of the time you have a very streetable engine but when you want a kick, flip the switch.
Or a mild blower / turbo
Or a mild blower / turbo
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
What's your budget?
What is the present condition of the engine a a whole?
That has everything to do with the approach to the build.
Oh, and BTW, Welcome to FABO!
Motor is decent, bores are standard and don't need any work. Really just looking for ways I can get a good street motor without taking to machine shop. Cam,pistons, intake,Ect...
I will take the 9.2:1 cr flat top pistons that you are discarding, and also that TBI Mid Rise intake manifold specially built for the the 318.
PM me.
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PM me.
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AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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Do a compression test. If you get over 155psi, IMO, don't even bother to open it up.
>Just put a 4bbl on it. If I had the Option, I would make it a spreadbore. and
>and a convertor with flash-stall, around 2800. Not 300hp, but, The torque will make you smile.
>Consider 3.55s plus or minus a tad
> you will need an LSD, a reprogrammed distributor, and a tach/rev-limiter.
This guy seems to know what he's talking about. You might want to read through his vids for some tips.
It’s a question of, “IF” they’re needed IF they’re worn out.
The OP maybe under the impression that 9.2-1 isn’t enough.
That would be wrong for the goal. I just suggested a replacement with more compression.
AJ believes this is needed for everyone including other items like a way to control your foot in order to prevent spinning tires out of control.
It’s not needed but I’d suggest one for everyone if a manual trans is involved and you like shifting at high rpm and/or racing.
I’ll entertain this, for sure!
But let’s get to exactly on what is one step above stock.
What’s your take? How much more duration?
Considering the size of the stock cam, AKA Toothpick small, a one step up cam is still small and may not provide enough extra air/fuel charge to meet the goal. This is totally dependent on the rest of the parts being used.
Should the OP stay with the stock heads as cast, the cam will be required to be larger in duration. This is because the stock head will only allow so much breathing. If the head moves FFF amount of air, then it will need to have the valves open longer and with more lift to take advantage of its capabilities. If another head flows more air or the stock one is ported to flow more air, less cam can be used.
With this (known) in mind, what do his heads flow and how much cam is needed in s the question. This is also as I said dependent on the rest of the engine.
One step above stock is not enough IMO.
What cam would you suggest?
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
factory said 9.2 compression but with head cc and deck heights all over the spectrum on factory stuff it could be as low as 8.7 or worse, never know till its all measured up and figured out...think that's call blueprinting...DWB
Send your distributor to @halifaxhops and describe your build, he'll check it all out and recurve the distributor to match the build.
junkyardhero
Well-Known Member
you say nothing elaborate, but let me ask this: is the motor already out of the car and apart or is it still in and running.
mentioned above: what's your budget?
here's an article with basic bolt ons: intake, cam, carb and some headers that made almost 300 with a run of the mill reman long block
www.motortrend.com
to get that 300 number, you're going to want compression and better breathing in the heads, so at least have those 302's massaged a little (put down the pitchforks, i said a little!) or diffent, better heads.
mentioned above: what's your budget?
here's an article with basic bolt ons: intake, cam, carb and some headers that made almost 300 with a run of the mill reman long block
318 Long Block Bolt Ons - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
Read how Mopar Muscle takes a closer look at how Bolt-ons Add 100 hp to a Recon 318 Long-Block
to get that 300 number, you're going to want compression and better breathing in the heads, so at least have those 302's massaged a little (put down the pitchforks, i said a little!) or diffent, better heads.
Here's a xe262h 4 bbl and headers on a stock low cr 318 makes 282 hp @ 5000 rpm.
Add some cr and head work or better heads or step up in cam to reach your goal.
318 Long Block Bolt Ons - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine
Thanks for the plug. Amazing how a proper curve can wake up a motor.
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