68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
I will check tomorrow. Thanks everyone.
318 with 360-587 1.88 heads
- Thread starter 68GTconvert
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I will check tomorrow. Thanks everyone.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Whats involved in a small solid cam?[/QUOTE]
Adjustable rockers and proper length pushrods.........Thought we were trying to save money here?
Adjustable rockers and proper length pushrods.........Thought we were trying to save money here?
Nice! I use a caliper, you can use the stem that slides out of the base to measure it easy. But without a caliper the penny trick would work pretty slick. So, one penny is .040" ?
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
I'll grab and caliper tomorrow. So do youi think it is even worth putting my RHS heads on and a slightly larger cam. Or should I just stick with the 587 heads.
OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
LOL......Yea i always use tools also and never thought of the penny trick until that member said that's what he had done. I measured and did come out with .040. Not sure how good the Govt. quality control is though.....
.OldmanRick
Well-Known Member
Really depends on the factory head cc and the piston measurement. Let us know what you find.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
Magnums will only add more cost, the cost of buying them and all the crap to make them work. mill the 360 heads down to 57cc and run them.
its .0048 removed per 1cc.
I have milled those 360 castings down to 55 cc no problems, kust dont forget to mill the intake and or intake side of the heads, when removing that much i like to split the diff between the heads and intake so that the valve cover rail doesnt get too thin.
If u van keep the rhs hesds and just sell he short block....that would work too, but ull still wanna mill them down to get a comp ratio with those sealed power pistons....and the stroker will bring more money with the heads on it.jmo
its .0048 removed per 1cc.
I have milled those 360 castings down to 55 cc no problems, kust dont forget to mill the intake and or intake side of the heads, when removing that much i like to split the diff between the heads and intake so that the valve cover rail doesnt get too thin.
If u van keep the rhs hesds and just sell he short block....that would work too, but ull still wanna mill them down to get a comp ratio with those sealed power pistons....and the stroker will bring more money with the heads on it.jmo
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
btw skip the 484 cam, get a custom grind from schnider that will work with the comp ratio u have and flow @lift the 360 heads give '.490-.500' and keep the duration around 262*
benmopar318
Well-Known Member
284 will work fine its a mild hyd
once was running cch-302 in stock 318 couldnt turn a tire off the line but would wind out with 3.08 gears, slotted in 284 and would smoke 1st into 2nd in a '65 Valiant
ive run the cch-302 in a stock '78 block low comp 318 to the tune of 13.9@102 in a '72 Duster
about to slot a .557 purple solid into a std bore '74 block with eddy heads
once was running cch-302 in stock 318 couldnt turn a tire off the line but would wind out with 3.08 gears, slotted in 284 and would smoke 1st into 2nd in a '65 Valiant
ive run the cch-302 in a stock '78 block low comp 318 to the tune of 13.9@102 in a '72 Duster
about to slot a .557 purple solid into a std bore '74 block with eddy heads
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
Good info. How much is it to mill heads down? Thanks
moper
Well-Known Member
If the goal is saving money and a running engine, suck it up and just deal with what you have. Put the small summit branded cam in it, sell the rest, and keep away from paying for milling, shims, or other rigging. It will be fine with a smaller cam, and plenty fun with a stick. Then you can keep the family, drvie teh car, and hopefully the house over the long term. Priorities man...
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
Baxter61
Well-Known Member
Priorities are good, but I always say this about my car obsession: you can live in a car but you cant drive a house! lol He's right though, sometimes you just gotta suck it up. I have a 318 in my duster right now. I didnt set out to build the worlds greatest 318, and when I bought it it was mis-represented to me. But its 7.75:1, .040 over, balanced bottom end that I reringed and bearinged, summit .441/.441 cam, mid 70's 360 heads that I gasket matched, bowl blended, and lapped the valves in, stock rocker arms so you know Im not getting the full .441 lift, an rpm air-gap intake and a holley 3310. My duster weighs 3600 with me in it, has a 3200 converter and 3.91s. It wasnt fully tuned and ran 14.72 at 92 mph. Not the fastest thing on wheels but it runs on regular and more importantly it runs and i can drive it.
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
Yeah I may just have to build something just like yours for now. It should still be fun with a 4 speed.
I did the penny trick and it looks like about 4 pennys in the hole. Maybe even 5. Not good. My carb is probably too big also. I can always find a 600 for cheap.
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
The economy is so weird for me right now. In June I was working two jobs working doubles every other day and in July it went to nothing. I work from contract to contract so it is tough. I have managed to keep my stroker motor though it so maybe something will come up and I won't have to do the sale of it.
Baxter61
Well-Known Member
Yea, I was dissapointed when I got it and it wasnt what was I was told. But sometimes you gotta just suck it up and screw together what you got. Its not like its a bad motor and yours wont be either, just not "ideal" Besides, its all relative. I took an aquaintence for a ride and he thought the car was crazy fast. Plus Ive got it up for sale so I can build something else so it served my purpose and will be a good powerplant for the next guy.
YoungBlood
Jolt the Squares
I don't think a 587 head is a good choice for a street 318.
The stroker with RHS heads should be sold together if the word "mortgage" is being thrown around.
I bet you could get some 675 teen heads for nearly free, and salvage the 360 1.88/1.60 valves, and your wallet will be happier over time. Dollars to donuts, you won't tell that much of a difference in seat-of-the-pants feel and your mileage will be prime with the suggested 262 duration.
If this a nice street machine, the RPM intake is overkill. You might get some $$ for it.
Just some objective thinking here. A lot of people are in your shoes these days.
The stroker with RHS heads should be sold together if the word "mortgage" is being thrown around.
I bet you could get some 675 teen heads for nearly free, and salvage the 360 1.88/1.60 valves, and your wallet will be happier over time. Dollars to donuts, you won't tell that much of a difference in seat-of-the-pants feel and your mileage will be prime with the suggested 262 duration.
If this a nice street machine, the RPM intake is overkill. You might get some $$ for it.
Just some objective thinking here. A lot of people are in your shoes these days.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
milling is cheap.
im really dissapointed in what ive been reading here lately.
Some of u have garbage for advice and make no sense when usually u do..
im really dissapointed in what ive been reading here lately.
Some of u have garbage for advice and make no sense when usually u do..
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
What else is needed to put on milled heads? Mill the intake to match and correct length pushrods? Did you read how deep in the hole the pistons are? What compression do you think i will be at 57cc? I know it is a rough estimate.
Baxter61
Well-Known Member
doesnt matter how cheap milling is if you dont have any money. not saying he doesnt but maybe he doesnt, maybe he does. only he knows that, at least he's getting options. and if the car needs anything else the money spent milling could go elsewhere to get him on the road. not to mention if he needs pushrods due to milling then milling just got a little more expensive
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
to the guy that mentioned the 675 heads and valves... that would be great but hes trying to spend as lil as possible and rebuilddng new heads doesnt fit in the relm.
Btw Read the 318 thread, its mine...so u outta think like 'hey, maybe theres a reason the guy who started that thread isnt recommending the 675s cause its not within what this op is asking budget wise'.
I know ive been doing this too long when i start sounding like a a grumpy old man.lol
Btw, the best 360 head to use if the int flow doesnt need to exceed 260'iwh is the 974, it has a killer exhaust floor, almost as good as the 308 but more like the 318 in height...just saying
oh, and 360 ports arent too big for a 318, anyone who says that is going on hear say or never set them up right on a teen for decent compression.
Btw Read the 318 thread, its mine...so u outta think like 'hey, maybe theres a reason the guy who started that thread isnt recommending the 675s cause its not within what this op is asking budget wise'.
I know ive been doing this too long when i start sounding like a a grumpy old man.lol
Btw, the best 360 head to use if the int flow doesnt need to exceed 260'iwh is the 974, it has a killer exhaust floor, almost as good as the 308 but more like the 318 in height...just saying
oh, and 360 ports arent too big for a 318, anyone who says that is going on hear say or never set them up right on a teen for decent compression.
1wild&crazyguy
Banned
i wouldnt worry about the push rod length. Figure the cheap head gaskets are .045 thick, funny how when schmos change head gaskets no body crys about too short a push rod...
'a lil' extra pre load wont hold the valve open. milling is around 60 bucks, u might have 120 bucks tied uo in it meanwhile the rhs heads have too large chambers and would need work as well and new rebuild heads cost 400 plus.
id at least mill the 587 to get an honest 8.5....otherwise itll be gutless down low with **** for snap.
thats why people always cry about 360 heads sucking on a 38teen....cause they eont mill them to get better than the 7.5 compression they end up with...
'a lil' extra pre load wont hold the valve open. milling is around 60 bucks, u might have 120 bucks tied uo in it meanwhile the rhs heads have too large chambers and would need work as well and new rebuild heads cost 400 plus.
id at least mill the 587 to get an honest 8.5....otherwise itll be gutless down low with **** for snap.
thats why people always cry about 360 heads sucking on a 38teen....cause they eont mill them to get better than the 7.5 compression they end up with...
Baxter61
Well-Known Member
theres nothing in this statement i cant agree with lol I think the OP needs to figure out how much money he has and how much he can/wants to spend on this temp motor as a starting point.
68GTconvert
Well-Known Member
Talked to 2 machine shops and one wouldn't do it. Both said get pistons. The other said he would do it at a price of like $180-220 for the heads and the intake would be extra. But he said he doesn't recommend taking that much off the heads. I don't have alot of machine shops around here especailly that do mopar stuff. At that price maybe pistons are the call. What are some good pistons that will get me where I need to be? 9-1 or more?
Like every build things start spiralling into be not being a cheap build. I could just run it as is I guess.
moper
Well-Known Member
That was my point. Milling is expensive when you can't pay bills and I've been there. I'm renovating my house so I havent even insured my '65 this year. Moeny's going to bigger priorities.
So first you want to whack some off the heads. Then there's the intake side milling. Then if you really want to get anything near a performance static by milling the head gasket surface there's the intake itself that needs to get milled because you can't mill the intake flange of the head farther than the valve cover bolt holes. Aftert that there's buying pushrods because your lifters are bottoming now.
The right way is to swap pistons. But we're talking about an obvious place-holder 318. Not need to spend anything more than gaskets and a cheap *** cam and go have fun droping the clutch.
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