318 with 360 heads and compcam build help

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Building a motor is based on the goals you’re looking for and those goals will drive the rest of your choices for the drive train. This isn’t meant as criticism, but you need to talk to someone who can explain the whole package to you. My suggestion is to get a good Machine Shop in your area, which hopefully some members can provide you. Tell them what you’re looking for and your budget. They will put together a motor with all the correct pieces for you, which is better than you trying to piece things together for yourself given your knowledge about performance applications. You can end up spending a whole bunch of money by listening to all the comments you get in this thread and you still may not get what you want. Just my two cents worth.
 
CLAY72dart said:
I want a street car and I’m not looking to go super crazy on a performance motor I just want to get good pistons and a good cam for my 318 I would really like to put the 360 heads to good use. I have never built a performance motor just rebuilt stock motors with stock parts.
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Ok, I'd mimic a 340 then. Use 360 heads and any 340/360 intake manifold including stock 340. Next you need a cam in the 210-220 duration @ .050 and .450"-.490" lift range. Sell what you don't need. Have your block checked to see how much it will need to bored to just clean up the cylinders. Find a shop that can bore and hone with small block MOPAR torque plates. Look at pistons that will give you 9.0-9.5 compression ratio with 73 cc chambers and .039" thick head gaskets. I'll check to see if I have some 1.88 intake valves. Get some 1.60 stainless steel exhaust valves. For springs use TFS 16942-16, 115# on the seat at 1.700", 285# at 1.200". I prefer custom cams, or an Isky cam. Get one made for your car and driving preferences. Not a fan of cheap cams anymore, too many problems.
 
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My old 318 in my dart. 75 318 bearings and rings. Isky 270 mega cam 221 at .050, .465 lift on a 108 Lsa. Stock 360 heads shaved .050. .028 head gaskets. Performer intake and 650 dp . Stock converter and 3.55s. 3550 lbs. stock 14in. Tires. Had to come out of the hole easy or would spin badly. 2.1 60ft. 14.0 at 100mph. A converter and good tires maybe 13.50s
 
aaronk785 said:
My old 318 in my dart. 75 318 bearings and rings. Isky 270 mega cam 221 at .050, .465 lift on a 108 Lsa. Stock 360 heads shaved .050. .028 head gaskets. Performer intake and 650 dp . Stock converter and 3.55s. 3550 lbs. stock 14in. Tires. Had to come out of the hole easy or would spin badly. 2.1 60ft. 14.0 at 100mph. A converter and good tires maybe 13.50s
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Good example of a total package working together.
 
Okay, here goes one of my voice command comments, so hold onto your shorts...
I know almost everything there is to know about building one of these engines, and i'm more confused reading these posts...
These cars are emotionally built for hot rods and stuff like that. These days, so throwing a three sixty block away and building a three eighteen for the same price.And getting less just does not make sense...
You're young and you want everything now without gaining knowledge first. And I assume that's what you're trying to do here here, but do not buy anything yet... These forms will get you cyber, spending your money like crazy and
When you buy something, somebody suggests you just petting their ego..
I wish people would stop building their cars from the engine and then working their way back. Instead of the way it should be starting with the rear end, the transmission, and then the engine... Otherwise, the engine blows up the transmission, and then the engine transmission blow up the rear end,...
I don't know if you want to listen to anything I have to say.I have what everybody knows is the slowest stroker on the internet....lol.. yet all the gurus who tell me how slow it is, will never show up at the track to race me... ( go figure...)
I already posted the stroker kit that I would recommend for your three sixty block... imagine if you sold all that other c*** and took the 360 block to the machine shop and handed him that stroker kit and all of a sudden. Now you have the solid foundation for putting almost any cam you want or heads you want on it like I've done over the years, I built a solid foundation. And I've tried different heads and different cams, different headers, different intakes, but I had a solid foundation. A brand new machine block with brand new pistons. Bearings frank and so forth...
Let's see probably 12 to $1500 to have the block cleaned board and your kit. Assembled, now you're at 3 grand with a completely new lower end that will never give up. And you wait for the speedmaster, block freddie sale and get aluminum heads 47 hundred dollars to your door.. i have had the springs tested, and they will hold up to a nice size cam... A little street stroker would love that cam that you have... have you looked into how much one of those converters cost....
Personally, I like my hot rods to have a.four, five or six speed...
Also, remember, rebuilding an automatic transmission is ten times easier than building an engine....
Hopefully, all these gurus will have you confused enough to sell your stuff Cheap to me...lol...
A young man like yourself could benefit from some good sound advice instead of a bunch of chest thumping gurus...
Remember, this is not a cheap hobby....
 
Establish your goal and build from there.

If I were you, I'd sell what you've got a do a junkyard 5.9 build. They are readily available at the pick n pull yards and almost always in great shape.

Alternatively, just get the 318 going as-is and have fun with it - maybe while you work on putting a junkyard 360/5.9 together.
 
Hydraulic Camshaft Specifications
Send Your stock 318 cam have reground to profile 1333 on as narrow of an LSA as the stock core will allow and send your lifters along to have them refaced. Use Comp 901-16 springs. What condition is your stock '67 318 short block in? Here's an example of a dome piston. Stock bore sizes are also available with 1/16 inch ring stacks for a little more $$, but your bores need to be in very good shape to get by with a stock bore hypereutectic piston.
PLYMOUTH KB KB399KTM.020 KB Performance Hyper Piston and Ring Kits | Summit Racing
 
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OP wants to get the ball rolling, and is planning on using the 360 heads.

So, start by bringing them to a machine shop for an assessment and estimate.
Get them done and ready to go.
(Depending on condition, missing parts, needed upgrades, and machine shop rates in your area, this could range from $300-$1000)

They can be used for essentially any build that fits what’s been described as the intended use.
 
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j par said:
Okay, here goes one of my voice command comments, so hold onto your shorts...
I know almost everything there is to know about building one of these engines, and i'm more confused reading these posts...
These cars are emotionally built for hot rods and stuff like that. These days, so throwing a three sixty block away and building a three eighteen for the same price.And getting less just does not make sense...
You're young and you want everything now without gaining knowledge first. And I assume that's what you're trying to do here here, but do not buy anything yet... These forms will get you cyber, spending your money like crazy and
When you buy something, somebody suggests you just petting their ego..
I wish people would stop building their cars from the engine and then working their way back. Instead of the way it should be starting with the rear end, the transmission, and then the engine... Otherwise, the engine blows up the transmission, and then the engine transmission blow up the rear end,...
I don't know if you want to listen to anything I have to say.I have what everybody knows is the slowest stroker on the internet....lol.. yet all the gurus who tell me how slow it is, will never show up at the track to race me... ( go figure...)
I already posted the stroker kit that I would recommend for your three sixty block... imagine if you sold all that other c*** and took the 360 block to the machine shop and handed him that stroker kit and all of a sudden. Now you have the solid foundation for putting almost any cam you want or heads you want on it like I've done over the years, I built a solid foundation. And I've tried different heads and different cams, different headers, different intakes, but I had a solid foundation. A brand new machine block with brand new pistons. Bearings frank and so forth...
Let's see probably 12 to $1500 to have the block cleaned board and your kit. Assembled, now you're at 3 grand with a completely new lower end that will never give up. And you wait for the speedmaster, block freddie sale and get aluminum heads 47 hundred dollars to your door.. i have had the springs tested, and they will hold up to a nice size cam... A little street stroker would love that cam that you have... have you looked into how much one of those converters cost....
Personally, I like my hot rods to have a.four, five or six speed...
Also, remember, rebuilding an automatic transmission is ten times easier than building an engine....
Hopefully, all these gurus will have you confused enough to sell your stuff Cheap to me...lol...
A young man like yourself could benefit from some good sound advice instead of a bunch of chest thumping gurus...
Remember, this is not a cheap hobby....
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I think that you made a mistake about the price of those cylinder heads, there's no way they are 47 hundred dollars to anyone's door.
 
I'm sure that milling those 360 in order to raise the compression ratio has been brought up. Wouldn't raising the compression ratio along with more air flow require more attention to tuning?? Also doesn't milling the heads affect the valve train geometry and push rod length which would affect lifter preload,correct? I don't know the amount that needs to be milled from the intake side of the cylinder head for every 0.010" that's milled from the heads in order to retain intake port alignment, having the block decked and running thinner head gaskets can affect the valve train geometry too, and intake port alignment. I've heard the China wall sometimes has to be milled as well especially when the heads / deck surfaces have both been milled, I couldn't find what the amount milled is done before the China wall needs to be milled. What I posted above has been mentioned by other members on different threads. I'm not saying that 360 heads don't improve the performance of a 318 I'm saying that there's more involved than just having them milled on bolting them to your 318. I believe that 318willrun has used 360 heads on a 318 and had good luck in doing so, my questions deal with the milling of the heads 0.030" plus.
 
CLAY72dart said:
Let’s just all understand where im at. I’m a 21 year old guy with 5 classic cars and 0 performance experience. I’ve got 2 darts a 69 impala 83 sierra and a 70 beetle. I can put a motor together but I have no clue about matching parts to work together.
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Is the car already on the road ?
If it's a runner, driver, do a compression test and see where your at with engine health.

Then make plans from there, Don't have to do everything a once, maybe start with tune, then duals maybe headers, then 4 bbl, maybe gears, shift kit, stall, then small cam, rebuild 360 heads or speedmaster heads etc..

If you gonna stick with stock stall, highway gears and a low compression ratio 318, gonna have to build around that and keep the build fairly mild.
 
You can also, add all these parts cam, heads, intake to your 318 as a temp solution, while digging up another short block to rebuild and swap these parts over. Be it another 318 or 360 or stroker with higher cr. If keeping stall low and gearing high the larger the displacement the better especially if you want to make a decent amount of power.

But don't be so quick to rush through the steps in performance, enjoy the journey and these cars don't need a ton of power to be fun, little improvements can go a long way.
 
Dan the man said:
I'm sure that milling those 360 in order to raise the compression ratio has been brought up. Wouldn't raising the compression ratio along with more air flow require more attention to tuning?? Also doesn't milling the heads affect the valve train geometry and push rod length which would affect lifter preload,correct? I don't know the amount that needs to be milled from the intake side of the cylinder head for every 0.010" that's milled from the heads in order to retain intake port alignment, having the block decked and running thinner head gaskets can affect the valve train geometry too, and intake port alignment. I've heard the China wall sometimes has to be milled as well especially when the heads / deck surfaces have both been milled, I couldn't find what the amount milled is done before the China wall needs to be milled. What I posted above has been mentioned by other members on different threads. I'm not saying that 360 heads don't improve the performance of a 318 I'm saying that there's more involved than just having them milled on bolting them to your 318. I believe that 318willrun has used 360 heads on a 318 and had good luck in doing so, my questions deal with the milling of the heads 0.030" plus.
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All that is not needed if you get the right pistons.
 
I haven't read the OP entire thread, but if he's out just to have fun then I think that a 4 barrel, headers, good flowing true dual exhaust, recurve the distributor and maybe convert it to a hei system. A mild cam ( .420 / .430 x 259*/267* 205*/215* @ 0.050" ). True double roller timing chain, degree cam. Use the cylinder heads that he already has and give them a good 3 angle valve job, clean up the bowl area and short radius side, mill the heads just enough to be sure that they are true. Dial in the carburetor and ignition system and 3.55's and go have some fun.
 
66fs said:
All that is not needed if you get the right pistons.
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That's what I have said before, only thing is that there's only one piston and that the KB and I think that it's CH is 1.810" The other pistons are forged and he doesn't need those for what he's doing
 
CLAY72dart said:
Alright here is how my story goes I have a 67 318 with 318 heads and a spare set of 360 heads practically stripped to nothing all I know I need is valves to put these on pictures below are of the cam kit I have in a box for the car and the cam spec sheet. Looking for advice I’m keeping the stock crank and connecting rods other than that it’s free game. Ignore the pushrods didn’t know enough when I bought that about a year ago. I’m thinking I can use the original pushrods and rocker assembly on the 318 heads but I’m not sure I don’t have a spec sheet for something like this.View attachment 1716382459
These are the 360 heads with nothing on them
View attachment 1716382461
This is the 318 heads I have with everything on them.
Intake. Exhaust.
VALVE ADJUSTMENTHYDHYD
GROSS VALVE LIFT• 497. 483
DURATION @
- 006 TAPPET LIFT287304
VALVE TIMING
.006		OpenCLOSE

INT: 40.0		BTDC67.0
ARDC -
EXH :80.0BBDC45.0
ATDC
THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM installed
@ 102.0 INTAKE CENTER LINE
INTAKEEXHAUST
DURATION @ . 050235249
LOBE LIFT• 3310• 3220
LOBE SEPARATION107.0
Don’t know what this chart really means. But this is what I bought a while back on marketplace.
Looking for help on what to buy to build the block I can answer your questions If you can help me choose what to do to make some power.

View attachment 1716382460
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Hah!
If this gets big-port factory heads,
This should be good ............ in a bad way.
I have done this for both mysely, my friends and for others who paid me to do it, even after I told them, it was a bad idea, and NOT ONCE did it turn out well.
Nine to one is NOT enough CompressionRatio for a 235*/287 advertised cam, even if it is on a 107Lsa, to produce adequate cylinder pressure at anything but WOT, and after the cam wakes up.
Now, IDK about you, but how often do you imagine that you will be at WOT and 3700 >5400? compared to, at well below 3000?
I'm not gonna tell you that this is a terrible idea, cuz every time I do, the worms come out and tell me how wrong I am.
So instead, I'll tell you that every time I did it, it was a disaster; and the reason was always the same, because, the cylinder pressure was so low as to be laughable, making take off about as exciting as a wheezing slanty. Every one of those cars needed a higher stall and "race-gears", to be fun.
The only good thing to come out of those builds, was that I then had a couple of sets of "hi-compression" 318 heads, that on a 340 were dynomite for a streeter; even with tiny stalls and hiway gears.
For that lazy as heck 235* cam, in a 318, you really need an Scr close to 10.5, to wake up the bottom end. You can put your money in the pistons or in the convertor Plus gears. Your choice.
Pressure will get you better fuel economy, Convertor and gears, will go the other way.
 
66fs said:
All that is not needed if you get the right pistons.
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Pistons alone won't do it by themselves. Actually, going with a 4 barrel, dual exhaust, recurve the distributor would make it a fun driver. As I mentioned earlier, going with 360 could ad more work and expense
 
Since you've got a '67 318, get it sonic checked. If it will hold a four inch bore, here you go.

https://www.jepistons.com/product/s...EVUEye9YLQFLPGe_XlGZyARrH0eymAJtXfrw5ybT9Ky--

JE Pistons 345794

That would allow to use your 235/249 cam if... you have the block decked for minimum of .045 quench for your 360 heads with a Felpro 1008 head gasket (Fel-Pro 1008 Fel-Pro Performance Head Gaskets | Summit Racing) and just get the heads surfaced enough to clean them up. Have the chambers polished and learn to tune.
 
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Scody21 said:
Here’s the list you have to awnser get the best responses.

What car is it going in.
What kinda driving. Street / Strip, only strip, AutoX / canyon carver
What are your goals for car
What transmission, gear ratios. If auto, what’s the converter specs.
What rear gearing
What tire size

Building a motor around a cam selection is not a good idea. Unless you want a dyno queen and then a dog in your car…
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Question about what you said about not building your engine around the cam your thinking about using. Doesn't the intake valve closing point determine the final pressure the cylinder has? Say he's compression ratio is 8.25:1 and the cams intake closing is 65* wouldn't reduce pressure in the cylinder? I'm not completely saying it's a good idea to build your engine around the cam your looking at but I think that it's something that needs to be taken into consideration.
 
Dan the man said:
Question about what you said about not building your engine around the cam your thinking about using. Doesn't the intake valve closing point determine the final pressure the cylinder has? Say he's compression ratio is 8.25:1 and the cams intake closing is 65* wouldn't reduce pressure in the cylinder? I'm not completely saying it's a good idea to build your engine around the cam your looking at but I think that it's something that needs to be taken into consideration.
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Yes you have to think how everything interreacts, so it's a process of figuring out what your generally gonna need and keep going over the plan refining it till you have a solid plan and even after it's built you probably gonna have to refine it some more to dial it in how you exactly want it , I'm pretty sure he's just saying don't pick a random cam and try to make the rest of the car match it.

To me you first figure out where your not willing to compromise, like gearing, stall, cid etc.. then try to design for/around that. Example, If you must run 2.76:1 2,000 stall and like to keep NA 318 and want to do 11's something got to give, like NA and or cid and or 11's.
 
Dan the man said:
Question about what you said about not building your engine around the cam your thinking about using. Doesn't the intake valve closing point determine the final pressure the cylinder has? Say he's compression ratio is 8.25:1 and the cams intake closing is 65* wouldn't reduce pressure in the cylinder? I'm not completely saying it's a good idea to build your engine around the cam your looking at but I think that it's something that needs to be taken into consideration.
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I was saying, don’t buy some random cam and build the engine and then shove it in the car. It’s backasswards and will be a dog. Pick the cam to suit the car. Not build the car to suit the cam. Speaking of cars, where’s your A-body Dan?
 
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