340-6pac Dyno

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2fine69s

69 340-6pak Rag Top
Joined
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Location
Elm City, N.C.
In two weeks I will be Dynoing my 340-6pac, and my question is: Has anyone ever Dynoed a 340-6pac with the original air cleaner element versus a K&N element?
 
I'll definitely be impatiently waiting the outcome. I would like to see what mine will do.

Lee

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2fine69s said:
In two weeks I will be Dynoing my 340-6pac, and my question is: Has anyone ever Dynoed a 340-6pac with the original air cleaner element versus a K&N element?

Details dude.... DETAILS! What's in the engine your dynoing? I'm curious too!

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FASTBACK340 said:
Details dude.... DETAILS! What's in the engine your dynoing? I'm curious too!

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Killer, details from you too. Those valve covers look cool.
 
Ok,
Here are some details:
1970 340 block
New Mopar Performance 6 pac
Ported, polished and flowed Edelbrock Heads
Weisco Forged 10.75 pistons
Eagle H-beam rods
Scat 3.58 stroke crank
Mopar Performance ballancer
Mopar Performance windage tray
ARP head and main studs
Bullit hydraulic .530 lift roller
Bronze distributor gear
Mopar Performance electronic distributor
MSD 8.8 wires
Rollmaster billet chain and gears
Harland Sharp Rockers 1.5
Hooker HPC Super comp headers
NOS Direct Connection valve covers (powder coated chrysler orange)
Moroso 8 qt pan
Flowcooler water pump
Carter 7psi feul pump
And as many tricks to it that years have taught me and H&F Performance in Wilson NC
 
moparlee said:
Killer, details from you too. Those valve covers look cool.

Mine is a MP crate 360 that's an honest 10:1. I'm using a Comp XE274H which is a .488/.491 dual pattern. I have a set of custom cut Smith Bros. pushrods with Crane 1.5 roller rockers on stock aluminum Edlebrock 63cc heads. The entire engine is studded with ARP fasteners except for the rods which are ARP bolts. I have a complete MSD ignition system including pro-billet distributor. The exhaust will be TTI's w/ 2.5" pipes and Flowmasters. And of course, there's the 6Bbl.

The valve covers are a set of beat-up Moroso's I painted. Those will end up on e-Bay as I've got these to bolt on.

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Sexy, huh?


Let us know what your pushing. Mine is no where as built as your's, it's closer than to a stock motor. And BTW: Mine is a 4 spd. too running 4:10's in a `68 Fastback.
 
Not able to see the picture, sorry. Boy all three of ours is pretty close. Here is mine:

340 bored .040 over
Fully ported E-brocks and intake by Ryan J(ShadyDell)
The heavy 10.5 TRW forged pistons with .040 off the tops for the closed chambered heads. 9.8 to 1 compresion
273 Forged steel crank out of a 64 273 with mallor weight added
Scat H-beams rods
Comp cam XE285HL 242/[email protected] with .545 lift on both
Degreed in at 104-4 degrees advanced
Moroso 8 qrt pan also
Total MSD ignition-other that there black and say Mopar on them except for the MSD Pro billit disturbutor
My header are probably to big they are the 1 7/8 with a 3 1/2 in collector
I'm also using a flow cooler water pump

I'm sure your guy's will make more power. That's killer.

I'm running a four speed and 4:10's with street tires for now that are 13.3 section wide by 28 tall.



Lee
 
Well Moparlee,
It sounds like you have a very well ballanced combination of parts in your engine. I think you would be surprised if you dynoed it. I don't think your headers are too big, air in and air out makes horse power. You may loose a tad on the bottom end torque, but as light as your car is and swapping a stick on top of that, you could stand to loose a little. You should blow the street tires off. I think your car will FLY!!!
 
Well I hope so, but we'll see. What are you guys running for gears and tranny's. Hey have you tried out that flow cooler water pump yet? I'm running one of those also, but I'm have heating issues that I need to get back on and figure out. I'm working on other parts of the car at the moment.

Lee
 
Lee,
I have bought a Griffin radiator, but have not run it or the engine yet. Did you have to space your water pump out from the timing cover to clear the rivets in the blades of the pump? If so did it cause any pulley alignment issues? I'll be running a 3.55 gear with a 727 and an 11" 3000 stall. I'm trying to get the max out, but still be able to really drive it. It's a 69 dart convertible, and I really enjoy driving it. Check out my garage.
 
Killer a vert. That would be awesome to ride in when you get 'er done. I've always like the 69 Darts.

My buddy has a 69 Dart with a 416 W2 motor with 4.56's. Man that thing is bad. Exhaust running clear to bumper and a little 9 in. slick and weighs 3500 pounds, full interior and no roll bar it runs 11.10's so far.

On the water pump thing it didn't rub so I didn't need to do that. I've heard a bunch of bad things about flow cooler since I bought my pump back in 97. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Right now I'm running a recored three core radiator from and under the dash slung A/C 65 Cuda car. I'm thinking about having best machine build a cross flow for it and running electric fans on it.

Lee
 
Man I'm a 69 nut also. I've got 2 of them. The hard top is a pro street car. I have owned it for over 20 years. Full cage, glass front, BDS 871...500 ci. The car is still not complete, but after the rag top project, I'm on it. It want be as easy to cruize in as the topless wonder. You should see the ProStreet stroller I built for my son, fat tires, blower, wing, flames, the whole nine yards. Its cool if I may say so my self, been in Mopar Muscle 3 times.
 
Well guys I have been running a FlowKooler pump on my 318 for about 3 years now and it's all hype.....they aren't any better than a stock 6-blade unit. I haven't had any problems with leaks or anything but I think i might replace it with a stock 8-blade unit for an AC car.
 
March Underdrive pulleys.......I know that that slows it down a bit.....but the stock 8-blade AC unit is better than the Flow Kooler.......now if I was going to go aftermarket again I'd get the Milodon or Edelbrock unit. Like I said I haven't had any problems with it but I'm not impressed or sold on the fact it is better than the stock one.
 
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