TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
@MOPAROFFICIAL compression test results are in post 143
What does the timing do, not just the number on the balancer, but what does the strobe look like when the engine starts to break up?
TT5. Not sure if I answered your question correctly. With the timing mark at 32* and the distributor locked, the pictures show that both rotor and pickup are not lined up perfectly with their mating contacts. When I turn the distributor I can aline them both to the coil and #1 button on the cap.Ok try this, with the distributor advance locked at 32, MAKE the pole on the reluctor line up with the pickup dead nuts on center AND the rotor line up dead nuts on center on the number one terminal in the cap. You might have to remove the distributor to do this. Do NOT line them up at TDC put your balancer at 32 degrees btdc
But by turning the distributor you are changing the timing. Like I said earlier you might need to pull the distributor up and move it a tooth and set it back in.TT5. Not sure if I answered your question correctly. With the timing mark at 32* and the distributor locked, the pictures show that both rotor and pickup are not lined up perfectly with their mating contacts. When I turn the distributor I can aline them both to the coil and #1 button on the cap.
Good point. Some of these aftermarket distributors don't "phase" in like a stock one does. Like, after you set the tower shaft in, the slot should face first intake bolt on driver's side.But by turning the distributor you are changing the timing. Like I said earlier you might need to pull the distributor up and move it a tooth and set it back in.
Where the rotor points to, matters not a bit; but at the appropriate time, it better be under a tower who's wire goes to the appropriate cylinder. We use number One cylinder (the driver's side frontmost cylinder), because the balancer is already marked for it; but we could just as easily use any cylinder, just by finding and marking it's TDC on the balancer.
During operation, the flyweight mechanism, moves the rotor into rotation. Because of that, the rotor has to start on one side of a tower, and sweep past it, yet not get very far from it, else the spark will jump to a cylinder that is under less cylinder pressure. The coil is lazy like that, always looking for an easier spark-path.
But again, where the rotor actually points to, whether the left front intake bolt or the right or the passenger side apron or anywhere else , matters NOT one tiny bit, except that; custom wires fit best when you use the position that the factory chose..... plus it makes it easier for the newbe mechanic to diagnose problems.
Your engine's power timing usually falls in the range of 36* plus/minus 2*.
Therefore if your centrifical system is bringing in 20*, you would set your base-Idle timing to 16 +/-2*. So then in a perfect world, your rotor would start at 10* before the chosen tower, and sweep to 10* after it. So then, you can see this with the engine off, by setting your balancer to 16* +/-2*, and manually jockeying the rotor between it's limits. However, at this same time, the reluctor better be in the firing position. If it is not; something has to be changed. Either the reluctor has to be rephased, or the rotor tip has to be. The rotor is usually easier.
But by turning the distributor you are changing the timing. Like I said earlier you might need to pull the distributor up and move it a tooth and set it back in.
I'm wondering if I should try this beforeBut by turning the distributor you are changing the timing. Like I said earlier you might need to pull the distributor up and move it a tooth and set it back in.
I wonder if I should try jogging overBut by turning the distributor you are changing the timing. Like I said earlier you might need to pull the distributor up and move it a tooth and set it back in.
Great question. There are two spots for the roll pin and only one pin. I've had it apart a couple times and marked the location so it went back the same way. The shaft has one location for the pin. I'll definitely look into this. It may have the same result as skipping over a tooth.Does the reluctor have a couple different ways to install on the shaft like the factory distributor has.
The factory reluctor has two different roll pin areas and 2 arrows, one for counter clockwise and one for clockwise.
If you don't get the roll pin in the right hole the reluctor would be off in relation to firing the rotor
True. But If you look at his pictures it appears that the rotor and the reluctor are off an equal amount. I’m trying to get him to set it up at 32 degrees locked and get the rotor, the reluctor and the pickup all happy without twisting the distributor. Maybe then we can get a pic of the alignment and know how the phasing is.Post #157.
Moving the dist one tooth does NOT change the phasing of the rotor to the segments inside the cap. What it does do is changes which cyl the rotor is pointing at.
That’s extreme. I don’t care how bad an ignition might be: scattered, misfiring, not firing, timing off etc etc. That amount of fuel into the chambers means it being drowned with fuel, sounds like a Fuel “delivery” issue.When I turned the engine over to do the compression test, gas was spaying out the remaining open plug holes onto the tops of the fenders.
I’ll repeat: Get it running, turn off the fuel pump so that you are running on what’s in the bowls and see if it runs smooth or as you say, still chugs at those rpm’s. Super quick easy thing to check.