340 vs 360

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Realest

gearhead 4 life
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Hey guys-------
I know that the 340 is the more sot after engine and is a stronger unit (well back in the day) more expensive, harder to find etc etc
I know the 360 was a dog compared to the 340 back in the day, but one would think with today technology (after market head, intake etc) that you could build it just as strong and quick has a 340.
Or is there some fact that i am missing? Are there any real big disadvantages to going with a 360 over a 340 in todays day and age?
 
if i had a 360..ohh man...would do a 408 stroker..eays 500hp...I would never want more than that..that's all you should need unless you are goin for a drag vehicle... I have a 340 with an all edelbrock set-up.. I got it bc i knew i could always say it was a 340 demon (just in case i ever had to sell) definitley not #'s matching..but one sweet 340 demon all in the same
 
Hey guys-------
I know that the 340 is the more sot after engine and is a stronger unit (well back in the day) more expensive, harder to find etc etc
I know the 360 was a dog compared to the 340 back in the day, but one would think with today technology (after market head, intake etc) that you could build it just as strong and quick has a 340.
Or is there some fact that i am missing? Are there any real big disadvantages to going with a 360 over a 340 in todays day and age?



i say leave the expensive 340 for the resto guys.. i want the 20 extra cubes right off the bat.... nothing wrong with a 340 but the 360 i easier to find and cheaper to buy in most cases..... the problem years ago was there were no off the shelf pistons that would give the 360 any compression.. thats all changed... i know more guys racing 360's now then 340's anymore....
 
ding ding... If i were to do it again....or i should say..if i had another..wait...when i have another project...I'm doin 408 stroker...
 
Realest:

Unless you are going for originality, do a 360. I've built 3-4 360s from almost junkyard parts: Use mid-late truck motors or cop mills as a starters and do some research to see what years had shot peened cranks and rods. A little bit of head work, careful cam selection, 4 bbl intake and a tuned thermoquad will give camaros and mustangs fits. You could build a 325hp (maybe more ?) engine for under $1k if you start with the right parts.

Good luck

Trevor
 
325 should be easy breezy for 360's for under 1k
 
It's a numbers game.

360 - more cube's

340 - #'s matching and date code's

Both can be built with similar results. C'mon, how much more power can you get from a 360 versus a 340 and vice versa.

If you just want power at less cost, go 360.

If you need a date coded motor, check the 340.
 
yeah thats what i figured but always nice to be reassured. At first i was thinking i wanted a big block for the dart, but i think going with a small block will be easier and cheaper in the long run. Better handling and more than enough power for me. I'm not looking for a drag car...Rather a nice street cruiser. I am not looking to build a Clone or Resto (being a stock /6).......looks like a 360 will be the way to go.
 
yeah...i'm sure you can make a nice 425 at the crank easy...i'd be shootin for 400rwhp... Will fly in an a-body.. and is highly possible if the 360 is built right
 
The disadvantage of a 360 is small potatos.

More stress on a longer arm crank.
Cast crank stock.
Pressed pistons on pins.
Large bearing surfaces on crank.

All of which can be addressed and changed or modified. And since were talking about making HP! The only part I ever bother NOT to modify is the bearing surface width. It's OK, I'm not racing for the money. I can live with the extra friction of a slightly wider crank bearing. LOL

The bennifits are;

Cheaper to get
20 "FREE" extra cubes
cheaper parts, build dependent. But the 4 inch bore is very popular and getting cheaper by the week.

The 4 inch bore is limiting in a overboreing aspect, but that is also something that should be sonic checked. I'm not a fan of huge overbores to make magical dispalcement numbers (426), but if thats what you really want, far be it from me to stop you. Stronger cylinder walls make more power.
 
340 = internally balanced
360 = externally balanced

What does this mean exactly? I want to hook a 360 up to my '65 cable shift auto 904 tranny. It has the small snout torque converter. Right now it's hooked to a later 318, so I have a machined spacer ring to take up the space between the small snout on the TC and the larger hole in the back of the crank.

Would I have to weld weights on my TC? I've heard of a 360 flex plate? Are all 360's balanced the same, so would any balanced flex plate do the trick?
 
yeah...i'm sure you can make a nice 425 at the crank easy...i'd be shootin for 400rwhp... Will fly in an a-body.. and is highly possible if the 360 is built right

If you want 400 rwhp you'll need at least 500 at the crank,i know....
 
what about going fuel injected with the 360? anyone done this?
i saw a kit from edelbrock... looked pretty nice. I think this would be better than trying to take a set up out of say a Dakota and retrofitting. gives you custom cal and tune-ability also supporting higher HP #'s stock a stock setup. I want to go fuel injection because its what i have grown up working on. just makes sense to me LOL Carbs scare that **** out of me :p

any other fuel injected small block guys?
 
340 = internally balanced
360 = externally balanced

What does this mean exactly? I want to hook a 360 up to my '65 cable shift auto 904 tranny. It has the small snout torque converter. Right now it's hooked to a later 318, so I have a machined spacer ring to take up the space between the small snout on the TC and the larger hole in the back of the crank.

Would I have to weld weights on my TC? I've heard of a 360 flex plate? Are all 360's balanced the same, so would any balanced flex plate do the trick?

Internal; It means the whole rotating assembly is balanced as a single unit
the external is not . The balanceing weights are on the damper and flywheel/T-converter.
In general, a B&M or other compnay have a flex plate that is used for this swap. Look into it.
I'm not sure about the older push button trannys and any lil'weird thing it may have.
 
what about going fuel injected with the 360? anyone done this?
i saw a kit from edelbrock... looked pretty nice. I think this would be better than trying to take a set up out of say a Dakota and retrofitting. gives you custom cal and tune-ability also supporting higher HP #'s stock a stock setup. I want to go fuel injection because its what i have grown up working on. just makes sense to me LOL Carbs scare that **** out of me :p

any other fuel injected small block guys?

The Edelbrock kit is not user adjustable. It uses a chip that Edelbrock sets up for you. You'll need the cam card to give Edelbrock. They say (Last read by me) turn around time is a couple of days. I read 3.

The beer barrel intake can be made to perform. But retro fittin it would not be what I would do.

Carbs are easy. You'll just need to take your time with a book and or a buddy.
 
here's a thought, 340 block, 360 crank turned down, 360 pistons .060 over, 372 cubic inches on the cheap. There's your 400 rwhp with the right cam and heads. Best of both, minus the forged crank. Assembly would have to be internally balanced like 340. External balance requires either a b&m flexplate with a neutral balance converter or the weight kit from mopar. also requires 360 damper.
 
I do like your thinking, I do i do i do.
 
here's a thought, 340 block, 360 crank turned down, 360 pistons .060 over, 372 cubic inches on the cheap. There's your 400 rwhp with the right cam and heads. Best of both, minus the forged crank. Assembly would have to be internally balanced like 340. External balance requires either a b&m flexplate with a neutral balance converter or the weight kit from mopar. also requires 360 damper.

Add new ported magnum heads and a .030 overbore and thats the engine on my engine stand waiting to go into my 67 barracuda.
 
If you want 400 rwhp you'll need at least 500 at the crank,i know....

i woulda though around 470 at the crank would been good for 400 at the wheels.. i was tellin him 425 at the crank is nice.... but...i would be shootin for 400rwhp i say 425 is nice..it's bc that's what i have..lol
 
aww i love topics like these lol its kind of hard to tell how excited you boys get over engines and the quest for power. NOT . Aside from all the great knowledge i can gain from all of you. It sure is great to see i am not the only one so excited by this stuff. Most people involved in my daily life just roll their eyes when i start talking about the car. Given i may talk about it tons...

bob-how much $$ do you have invested in your awaiting engine?
 
The 340 vs 360 thing is kind of like this.

The 360 was built in a more emission regulated era and was simply built with less power (small cams, low compression, etc)

The 340 was built in the pre heavy polluter law era .


Im not going to get into which is better but I will say both can be built (for about the same price) to make big power.

Or look at it this way........


The Chevy 350 from the 60s and 70s ranged form mid to high 300s in HP to under 170 HP in stock form (as installed in a production car) but all were 350s.
 
This is my 408ci that's going in my 65 barracuda.

p1010002my408new.jpg


p1010004dynosheet.jpg
 
Good post.

I am at the point of what parts do I need to make my 3/30/70 360 block put out 500 ponies on the street and pump gas.

What would y'all recommend from carb to oil pan?

Keep in mind I'm no engine guy so acronyms will tilt my head like a dog.

It's going in a 67 barracuda notch with a cage, sub frame conectors, mini tubbed.
Built for the strip and street.
 
Good post.

I am at the point of what parts do I need to make my 3/30/70 360 block put out 500 ponies on the street and pump gas.

What would y'all recommend from carb to oil pan?

Keep in mind I'm no engine guy so acronyms will tilt my head like a dog.

It's going in a 67 barracuda notch with a cage, sub frame conectors, mini tubbed.
Built for the strip and street.


What is your price range?
 
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