340 vs 360

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I am not attempting to create dissension at all - I am only interested in gaining the most useful knowledge available.

I hear ya there. I think dgc and moper have hit it on the head. If it is a 3.58 or 4.00 stroke, the owner has final choice on where to spend his money. But we do all seem to agree to sel the 340 block for the best money return to power forth the project at hand.

On the bearings. Yikes, I don't know. I re-did mine on the 8-3/4 a long time ago and have had no problems in many years.
 
340mopar and 340srule - So it's clear that not everyone agrees with R. E. (MoparAction). I notice that it appears there is a lot of disagreement over his stand on brake fluid type too, as well as 8.75 wheel bearing choice - it seems according to the latest issue that I referred to, the Green bearings come into question, and yet I notice that most folks ... that's what they are using nowdays.

I am not attempting to create dissension at all - I am only interested in gaining the most useful knowledge available.

Nine out of ten times,i don't agree with what is printed in most of the magazines,i go by "real" testing/using which i can get at the track!!,what is he saying is wrong with the green bearings??
 
RE has his opinions. They are based on his experience. Some others have had other experiences. Rick does some killer stuff. As I recall, he liked the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5). If I am re-doing a complete braking system, adding bigger stuff, I use it too. I do think it has merit, but I dont consider the effects it has on paint to be a huge considerration any more than my using rubber tools so I dont drop a wrench on unprotected body parts.. I consider it's performance, and in the cars I run it in, it works great. As far as Green's bearings...They are limited by the design. That's true. But there are very few who truthfully will over load them. You're more likely to slide the car before you put that kind of force thru the axle bearing. Not that it cant be done. But, in my world, I look at greasing the factory type. I can take apart 80% of the cars out there, and the rear axle bearings will be under-greased. Because nobody does it. You are much more likely to have a tapered bearing fail due to lack of lubrication, and by overloading a ball type bearing that is sealed. It's not axle oil that lubes them. It's bearing grease applied when the bearings are serviced. The bearings are never serviced in my opinion, based on my experience. So which is better? Which has more merit? which is "right" for your car? Only you show know really. Well, you and the guy doing the work if you have one of those. One thing to remeber about magazines... They dont relay on subscriptions for thier money. They need subscriptions to get more money because more people will read the ads. And the advertisers are what drives content. Guys like RE and Andy F. I dont think get as much pressure on them, but anything from a staff writer you can bet the advertisers get a very nice part in the control of that article.
 
One thing to remeber about magazines... They dont relay on subscriptions for thier money. They need subscriptions to get more money because more people will read the ads. And the advertisers are what drives content. Guys like RE and Andy F. I dont think get as much pressure on them, but anything from a staff writer you can bet the advertisers get a very nice part in the control of that article.


ain't that the truth.... is the magazine really gonna bad mouth the guy that gave them the free parts?
 
Just reading the latest MoAction and R.E. is again in the diff on the Bold Beeper project. He has an interesting buildup of an 8-3/4 without using the thrust buttons. He also restates his position that green bearings are good for straightline dragracing, and not for hard street driving.

Grant
 
Nine out of ten times,i don't agree with what is printed in most of the magazines,i go by "real" testing/using which i can get at the track!!,what is he saying is wrong with the green bearings??

I don't dissagree. As to your question - "what is he saying is wrong with the green bearings??" - I can't quote him from memory, but if I read him correctly, he appears to strongly advise against them for street use.

It strikes me as extremely pertinant what most vehicles had/have for rear wheel bears. Please see my next reply to moper where I will continue this ...
 
Just reading the latest MoAction and R.E. is again in the diff on the Bold Beeper project. He has an interesting buildup of an 8-3/4 without using the thrust buttons. He also restates his position that green bearings are good for straightline dragracing, and not for hard street driving.

Grant

Yes that's exactly what I'm talking about.
 
RE has his opinions. They are based on his experience. Some others have had other experiences. Rick does some killer stuff. As I recall, he liked the silicone brake fluid (DOT 5). If I am re-doing a complete braking system, adding bigger stuff, I use it too. I do think it has merit, but I dont consider the effects it has on paint to be a huge considerration any more than my using rubber tools so I dont drop a wrench on unprotected body parts.. I consider it's performance, and in the cars I run it in, it works great.

About the great brake fluid debate. Some time ago I bought a couple quarts of this that I never used. I was gonna purge my dot4 out and replace. Why did I not? Because of the anti-mix qualities of silicon fluid. I'd read one very relevant debate on this property and the anti-silicon won the argument in my view, and here's why ... the very reason that is sited as a plus for silicon; namely, that it won't mix with moisture (and therefore won't corrode the inside of your braking system) can only be substantial if you have moisture in your braking system. Since it's a given that there is some, then you really want it to mix with your brake fluid, because if it does not, then you'll have "pockets" of moisture that will end up doing more harm than mixed moisture/brake fluid. So taking this view, it may be better to just flush your brake system every two or three years than to try to combat moisture by using silicon. That is the argument that I find more sensible.


As far as Green's bearings...They are limited by the design. That's true. But there are very few who truthfully will over load them. You're more likely to slide the car before you put that kind of force thru the axle bearing. Not that it cant be done. But, in my world, I look at greasing the factory type. I can take apart 80% of the cars out there, and the rear axle bearings will be under-greased. Because nobody does it. You are much more likely to have a tapered bearing fail due to lack of lubrication, and by overloading a ball type bearing that is sealed. It's not axle oil that lubes them. It's bearing grease applied when the bearings are serviced. The bearings are never serviced in my opinion, based on my experience. So which is better? Which has more merit? which is "right" for your car? Only you show know really. Well, you and the guy doing the work if you have one of those. One thing to remeber about magazines... They dont relay on subscriptions for thier money. They need subscriptions to get more money because more people will read the ads. And the advertisers are what drives content. Guys like RE and Andy F. I dont think get as much pressure on them, but anything from a staff writer you can bet the advertisers get a very nice part in the control of that article.

You make an excellent point here - and one I really had not considered. What I have noted is that it appears to be well nigh impossible to locate anyone who can set up the stock factory roller bearings to spec. So really what choice is there? Or am I just looking in the wrong places? Has anyone else found it easy to do this - or do you have the correct tools and do it yourselves?

And another thing that I think is most relevant is: "what have - or do - the factories use in their rears, for bearings. I have been trying to find out ... and it's not that easy to get to. I located this article about '65 - '73 Mustangs, which clearly states that they came from the factory with sealed ball bearings - http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/bearings/rearbear.html

If this is true, than how much worse can the Green bearings be? ... do they have some inherent weakness/es?

And what about other cars - what do the other manufacturers use?
 
I'm installing a warmed-over 360 into my 69 Cuda-S convertable to preserve the #matching 340. Later 90's and early 20's, 360 and 318 vans and trucks had FI and OD transmissions. I've seen this combo awapped into a few cars. I had a 1990, 150 van with a 318 engine. It was very torqey, started instantly, ran smmothly and got reasonable economy with the selectable OD trans. Maybe I'll do one in my next project.
 
ENOUGH WITH THE NONSENSE!!!

Put a slant/6 in it!

Its faster than those 340 and 360's pffff . :cheers:



Hope you dont believe me! IM CRAZY! lol :read2:
 
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