360/300 magnum Questions/suggestions

[maddart]

I am looking at a car that has the 360/300hp motor.

First question, where would i find that info on the block to make sure its not some other small block

Second question, can i get the motor to produce 380hp by simply changing out the cam/lifters/springs?

Can't afford a new set of heads at the moment so anything i can do to up the hp without breaking the piggy bank would be great

 

[rumblefish360]

I'm not sure about block info since they were re-mans from Chrysler. On the front passenger side, there "could" be a sticker, yellow with a part number on it. My create short block had this sticker. It was also a re-man.

2nd question;

Yes. According to my research on these engines when they were new, I enquired on the phone at MoPar performance to this very thing. Both engines are the same except the:

Intake, cam, valve springs. Change these items and you can have the 380hp create engine.
(Which by the way never duno'd less than 400+HP. Ain't stock heads great. I wonder what a good porting would result in?)

 

[UOP]

Easiest way to tell if it's really a Magnum motor is to:

1.) Look at the intake bolts. If they go in straight up and down in the head it's a Magnum.
2.) Look at the side of the block. Magnum blocks retain the LA mounting lugs on the side, but also have lugs (3) in the middle that the LA blocks do not have.
3.) It'll say if it's a 318 or 360 on the side of the block, I believe on the driver's side under the head. If you can't see the markings on the side of the block, you can compare the LA motor mount lugs on the side of the block. If the driver's side lugs are closer together than the passenger side, it's a 360.


Don't know how to turn it into a 380 hp version, but I don't know if I'd want it anyway. Single plane intake and a big cam? I'd think a Magnum 360 with an Air-Gap dual plane, Comp XR274HR-10 cam, headers, and a 750 carb would beat it almost every way. The heads would need the valve guides cut down (or run the high clearance retainers from Hughes Engines) to keep the retainers from hitting the valve seals (high lift, .538/.534) , but that's not hard if you're already doing a cam swap.

 

[rumblefish360]

But the question is on how to tell if it is the create 300hp/360 e gone and. Of a run of the mill Magnum engine.

 

[UOP]

But the question is on how to tell if it is the create 300hp/360 e gone and. Of a run of the mill Magnum engine.

I'm not quite sure what you're saying, but the 300 hp Magnum was just a production 360 engine without the fuel injection. Even if the engine in question is a bone yard Magnum, it's the same thing.

 

[Abodybomber]

Good luck on the cam,D.C. dropped that part number a while back.Had the local dealer,run a locater trace last year,no luck.The Comp grind runs around the D/C stick.

 

[maddart]

Thanks for the info.
I just want to make sure the engine is truely a magnum 360 and not a 318

 

[TT'74]

Like UOP said you can tell the difference between the 318 and 360 but the casting numbers on the driver side of the block. It will say 318 or 360 so no decoding needed. As far as making power as cheaply as possible. I would go with a mild cam, Iron ram heads 2.02/1.625, and a good intake.

You can get a deal on used cams by cruising some of the dakota forums. The roller cams are much more forgiving in swaps than flat tappets. Iron ram magnum heads can be had for about $370 for each head with .525 springs, SS valves. As I recall, they flow about 25-35 cfm more than stock magnum heads out of the box.

I've got a COMP Cams 20-745-9 with about 5k miles I'm looking to sell, since my project changed directions. Pm me if you could use it.

 

[maddart]

This is a photo of the motor. Its not a magnum 360, can someone help identify? Note the oil filter.

 

[rumblefish360]

I'm not quite sure what you're saying, but the 300 hp Magnum was just a production 360 engine without the fuel injection. Even if the engine in question is a bone yard Magnum, it's the same thing.

Yes, they were. Your right. The MP create engine was a regular 360 engine, but since it was a purchase through MP, well, the I.D thing can be different like I mentioned with my create short block having a sticker on it I.D.-ing it as a MP part and not a run of the mill Chrysler re-man or new part. That is it.

The later ones, P number dependent, came with Federal-Mougal HP pistons with anti scuff coated skirts.

Sorry about the jumbled post above. I was on my I-phone and just didn't proof read it, or did with crossed eyes. Sorry guys.


Maddart, that oil filter adapter could have been added on at any point. It could be that guy had it on hand and just said screw it I'll use it and/or he needed it with those headers due to clearance issues. IDK exactly, but it is a pricey part these days.

Also, the pre Magnum create engines are something I can not I.D. The engine in car makes it to hard for a good I.D. The pre Magnum create engines (AKA Commando) came in 2 flavours. 300 and 360 HP. The 360 hp engine came with IIRC, 308 - 2.02 heads and a MP 284/.484 cam.


I'm sorry because I can not be off more help.

 

[dusterdan]

Well your motor is DEFINITLY not a magnum motor, that's an LA small block....360 or 318? I don't know crawl underneath!

 

[maddart]

Just some pics of the car i'm looking at, Is this LA motor a good candidate for a 400hp street car?

 

[67Dart273]

Look directly at the front driver side of the engine IMMEDIATELY under the parting line between the head and block. There should be a long stamped number under there, and the first few numbers should have 318, 340, 360, etc right in that number, UNLESS it's some factory re-man, some are "xxxx" 'd out. (I have a "Mopar" branded reman 360 that's this way. It had a "Mopar" id sticker epoxied to the block)
Then you'll have to get underneath and look for the casting number on the side of the block.

What you have there could be anything from a 273 to a 360