360 build info needed,,

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christineman

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Im building a 360 for a street rod and am not knowledgeable to that engine so,, need some advice,,Id like to get at least 350 HP or more and of course on a budget like most of us., Im useing stock rods, crank, and block,, I need a cam that will do the trick for me and make it plenty streetable. Im thinking edlbrock performer manifold withn 650 carb.. also KB 9.5 flattop pistons and of course elec ign. I need advice if all this is OK for me and what exact cam should I get with hyds. also, how far should I bore it to get the most performance. Ill also use roller chain and gears, so,, I need your advice,,, Robert has given me some good advice so far but sure could use more in detail,, thanks bob. any info that will help me get the most for my buck would sure be appreciated,, I work with 50s mopars so this 360 thing is new to me,,, thanks to all in advance..

mel
 
I would go with a 284/484 mopar cam. Im sure there will be 27 others that say you need a comp cams xe something or another. Its all in whatever you want. I have ran that cam in a few different motors. Very nice and streetable. Dont forget to upgrade the rockers to heavy duty, because with the extra lift comes extra spring pressure. It would pull to 6500 very nicely.

Personally i would run a 750 minimum if not an 800 or 850 cfm double pumper carb.
 
Great lower end how ever what kind of heads are you running? Secound is this engine swap or just a build? Head CC. Will play a big roll in your compression ratio
 
ricardosdemon72 said:
Great lower end how ever what kind of heads are you running? Secound is this engine swap or just a build? Head CC. Will play a big roll in your compression ratio
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I havent decided on heads,, your opions matter to me tho,, should I get the 160/180 or the 202 j heads?
 
J heads are ideal however they came in a many different CC ranging from 72 CC to 63 CC find out what they are before you buy pistons cause compression ration is deturmined. By the CC on the head...example would be a 9.5-1 ration piston will be 9.5-1 using 63 CC but mid 8-1using 72 CC heads... price out aftermarket you might come across some nice heads for your motor...cam also has a lot to due with torque converter,rear gearing and tire size. ..chose your complete set up combo before building your motor... it don't matter how much torque your engine puts out.... it's how well you transfer that torque to your wheels. Also look into using W2 heads...they come with lower CC chambers to compensate for low compression pistons due to smog in ,nice big valves,inaddition they have a rocker ratio of 1.6 witch is a plus... also when picking out a can have all your specs ready compression ratio,CC on head,exhaust diameter, and call Crane Cams tech line or comp Cams... they will be happy to help you select a cam. ...note that solid roller lifter and cams are now available for LA engine and do not require block modifications ... by comp Cams. ...
 
Don't bore it any more than it takes to clean it up. The more you bore it the thinner the cylinder walls get and that lets them flex and you loose ring seal. That'll cost you way more hp than you'd ever get from boring it out bigger.

RHS heads are a huge improvement on old worn out original J or X heads and probably cheaper too cause most J heads you find are worn out and need totally rebuilt. They were good for their time but as with everything time and miles take it's toll on parts. BTW: you only need small valves for 350 hp with either head you use.

For 350 hp. you don't need a huge radical cam. I have a Lunati 60404 in my 360 and it's making about 375 hp and it's much more mellow idling (although it thumps decent) than a Mopar perf. 284/484. Really you don't even need one that big for 350 hp. I'd bet the Lunati 60403 or Comp XE 268 would make 350 easy and be very streetable. You might even get some resemblance of fuel mileage. An Eddy RPM or Air-gap would go a long way toward making 350 hp also as would a set of headers. A 650 carb tuned properly will make 350 hp.
 
fishy68 said:
Don't bore it any more than it takes to clean it up. The more you bore it the thinner the cylinder walls get and that lets them flex and you loose ring seal. That'll cost you way more hp than you'd ever get from boring it out bigger.

RHS heads are a huge improvement on old worn out original J or X heads and probably cheaper too cause most J heads you find are worn out and need totally rebuilt. They were good for their time but as with everything time and miles take it's toll on parts. BTW: you only need small valves for 350 hp with either head you use.

For 350 hp. you don't need a huge radical cam. I have a Lunati 60404 in my 360 and it's making about 375 hp and it's much more mellow idling (although it thumps decent) than a Mopar perf. 284/484. Really you don't even need one that big for 350 hp. I'd bet the Lunati 60403 or Comp XE 268 would make 350 easy and be very streetable. You might even get some resemblance of fuel mileage. An Eddy RPM or Air-gap would go a long way toward making 350 hp also as would a set of headers. A 650 carb tuned properly will make 350 hp.
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so what size valves should the j heads have for me to get the HP i want??
 
ricardosdemon72 said:
J heads are ideal however they came in a many different CC ranging from 72 CC to 63 CC find out what they are before you buy pistons cause compression ration is deturmined.
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Good advice except, I have never seen a small chambered letter head ever come off a stock engine. Aren't those cc numbers NHRA max/min.'s?

By the CC on the head...example would be a 9.5-1 ration piston will be 9.5-1 using 63 CC but mid 8-1using 72 CC heads... price out aftermarket you might come across some nice heads for your motor...cam also has a lot to due with torque converter,rear gearing and tire size. ..chose your complete set up combo before building your motor... it don't matter how much torque your engine puts out.... it's how well you transfer that torque to your wheels.
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Ouch, I have to disagree here on that one. Torque matters and on a driver as he askes for with a low HP out put, it is of mega importance.

Also look into using W2 heads...they come with lower CC chambers to compensate for low compression pistons due to smog in
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Innnncorrect. The smaller chambers were designed per racers requests of a smaller chamber for higher compresion ratios, quench and custom chamber design.
NOT smog issues, though, they do solve alotta that.

,nice big valves,
inaddition they have a rocker ratio of 1.6 witch is a plus
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The heads come rockerless so, purchasing rockers is now a choice. IMO, one should pick a cam based on the intended rocker ratio. Ramp speed can be ground in and takin to far with a ratio change from 1.5 - 1.6

call Crane Cams tech line
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When did there tech line and bizness come back to life. I know S&S mototrs/engines, purchased them, have plans to bring them back from the dead, but that's alotta work for a motorcyle company to get up and going after they (Crane) went out of biz.

or comp Cams... they will be happy to help you select a cam. ...note that solid roller lifter and cams are now available for LA engine and do not require block modifications ... by comp Cams. ...
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Theres a thread here where a fella ran into a mountain of problems with a Comp roller. I keep forgetting to book mark the thread. BUT, I don't think it was a solid cam.
When did Comp start making drop in rollers with NO mods at all? Last I seen was there bar needed a grinder to clearance them into the block.

Wan't that Korryliss that had the issue and his MP 340 resto block?
IIRC, grinding the wall ended in a window and the lifters still didn't clear the blocks wall.
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347hp 395tq on what people call a stingy dyno. At westtech using the magazine style correction factors, it probably would have made ~370hp

KB107, stock J heads with a blend of the valve job, Comp XE268H, LD340, A 750dp or 950hp, headers.

Basic parts with good machine work.

At 3250#, the car ran right at 103.50 in the 1/4 with a fat carb tune for conditions/DA.
 
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