360 build suggestion

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HemiTM

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I rec`d this email. What do my fellow FABO members think of this build?

"360 Mopar is a great engine. Most underrated by folks. Get the compression up over 10 to 1 .Kb are good if you look after the extra end gap for the hypereutectic material. Error on the large end. clearance as for marine use. (.001 over spec , finish to 4.031) use Hastings race rings. use a 3/4 or full groove main set. (3/4 is enuf but not always avaiable. Half is not enuf!) good set of Rod bolts. clearance bottom end on the looser side. not crazy but not snug for sure. run a melling or similar Hv pump. Install a windage tray . If you cant get a MP one use a milodon or simlar. (good for about 14 ponies ) try and find NOs 340 steel head gaskets. if not plane an extrra 020 from the head and use blue felpros. Stock head bolts and stock torque settings. Cam. Well if you must run a solid phone Jim Dowel at Racer Brown (phone after 7 PM maryland time or he wont answer.) Get an STX -20 . use the iron 273 style rockers. (no hi ratio deallies.) You will also need pushrods. Run any decent intake including and maybe preferedly a performer RPM. Do not run a tunnel ram . these engine arent happy with that deal. Put the cam in 2 degreees ahead. (106. ) J heads are very good, and little if any difference from the famous X heads. Spend a lot of time under the valve in the pocket. just clean up the rest in normal fashion. If the heads are wonked put in the 2.02s . if not the stocker are up to the job. I tested a set I did here at 268 CFM. That is good for a max of about 580 HP so the heads wont be holding him back. They are usually pretty good for CCs but check them and I know you will. Recurve the distributor cutting down the total advance by 1/3. A 3310 would be the ideal carb with the rear plate conversion for normal jets. up here we run 76 in front and 80 rear with a 5.0 power valve in front. That is for open headers. might be a bit much there so maybe try 74s and 78 s first as our air is a bit denser most days.
Set timing at 36 to start total at 3500.
keep header size same size as exhaust valve. HOWEVER.
I would run a hydraulic. So even though you are on Solid I wll just tell you this for what it is worth. Probably because of the 3000 stall converter a extreme energy hydraulic from comp. They have shortened duration but the fastest ramps in the industry and take full advantage of the Chryco .904" lifter diameter. XE285HL would be my pick. It can be run with as little as 9.5 to1 comp ratio. however above 10 and ideally 10.5 would make a difference. Expect well in excess of 400 Hp . Set shift and gear for 6500- trap speed. Should be an aboslute killer and very reliable. and inexpensive. The type of motor that will make the $ guy mad!. "
 
sounds nice but what would i be looking at total cost. i am rebuilding my 360 in jan been looking for something like this thanks
 
What do you want to run for MPH/ET and what's the car weigh... that's the question. Pick a HP goal and build to it. Plenty of ways to get to a goal.
 
He runs, high to mid 13's at Famoso,home track.Hemi,what are your expectations,and budget,man?
 
425hp @ 3400lbs. and all the stars aligned will get you there. Bite, converter, suspension, etc.
 
Hello,Ricky:cheers:! 425 ,easy at Bako, low to mid 12's, easy.
 
I appreciate all the info. I knew 11.50 -12.00 could be achieved on a $2000.00 budget. I already have the RPM Air Gap, distributor, ignition, headers. I will need to pick up a new carb and a few other things.
 
It's do-able if you have the gearing and convertor there already. But it will take all that in head work and camshaft change. I don't see the whole engine being done for that figure even using the parts you have and if you need more convertor...
 
I appreciate all the info. I knew 11.50 -12.00 could be achieved on a $2000.00 budget. I already have the RPM Air Gap, distributor, ignition, headers. I will need to pick up a new carb and a few other things.

really?
 
This car has been built from the back forward. 8.75 sure grip, 489 with 3.91`s. Rock solid 904 with reverse valve body. SS springs, CE shocks front and back, sub-frame connectors. All we need is a budget 360 to install in it. I have the `72 block 360 in my garage. Picked it up complete with a 727 for $50.00. With 4 kids in college, I have no other choice than to do a budget build.
 
Best way to build a car,chassis first.Safety,and consistency before big H.P.Low buck isn't bad,you appreciate it more.
 
My experience it cost me a lot more than
2 k for a 11 second small block.

I would recommend building a good stout bottom
End that you can depend on.
Start off with a set of J heads and a cam that
Will work with your converter and gearing.
Then later on get a decent set of heads that will
Work with your desired compression and swap those
On with a cam that will work with your finished
Combo.
Probably wont start off in the 11's but your
Bracket racing anyways.
What I have learned is every time I try to
Save a buck on a build it ends up costing me
Three times by the time I'm done.
Do some research I have seen some posts on this forum
On Some really impressive junkyard magnum
Engines.
Goodluck keep us updated on your project
Sounds like you have a good start to a really
Nice race car.
Very similar to what I run.
 
a cast 4" stroke crank ($270) and some head work is another budget way to get you to the low 12's. I don't know what a set of hyper flat top pistons are for the 4" crank, but I have found forged ones for around $400.00. Just another thought.
 
Here is the latest. All my machine shop work is going to be done at no charge. All I will need to do is put a sticker on my car. I will be running KB191`s with the heads down to 68cc`s and that will bring the compression to 12.5 to 1. There will be extensive work done to the heads. Comp Cams XE285HL with solid lifters. 273 rockers and the appropriate springs and pushrods. Looking for a used M1 and rebuildable 750DP. Stall will be 3000 and the rear end will be changed to 4.30`s with a spool, running a 29 or 30 inch stiffer wall slick to allow the suspension to work better. I think this will perform a little better than my 318.
 
A hyd cam with solid lifters on it? Buy a solid cam if you plan to run a solid lifter.

Hope you plan on straight 110 race gas for this.
 
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