360 into 1966 valiant

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Buck fifty

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I am looking at a 1992 la 360 for sale. What kind of headaches will I have trying to replace my original 273? Will my 904 bolt up to it? Thanks for any advice.
 
Use the B&M flexplate 10239 to bolt up the convertor and maintain 360 external engine balance.
You'll need a crank flange reducer bushing for the convertor snout, they changed diameters over the years. Available through Pat Blais Transmissions or through several members here- I believe @Charrlie_S is one of them. Or just have a custom convertor built to accommodate the balance and snout issues.
You'll need a carb, manifold, and distributor for the 360. The '92 360 is factory TBI.
You'll need to space the driver's side 273 exhaust manifold (the truck driver's side manifold won't fit an A body) out from the head by using a bare header flange, there's interference issues between the head and manifold otherwise. Or else run headers.
you'll need a radiator with a passenger side inlet, they switched sides in '70. Or swap the 273 timing cover and water pump onto the 360.
The passenger side motor mount bracket will need to be modified to fit the 360- lots of threads on here about that. The driver's side bracket will need a 1/2" or so spacer between the rear engine block mount ear and the mount bracket.
You'll need a 360 passenger car oil pan, pickup, dipstick and tube to replace the truck parts on the 360.
And a bunch of little things, like throttle and kickdown linkages that will need to be modified.
It's not as difficult as it sounds, but it's not a "drop in".
 
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Use the B&M flexplate 10239 to bolt up the convertor and maintain 360 external engine balance.
You'll need a crank flange reducer bushing for the convertor snout, they changed diameters over the years. Available through Pat Blais Transmissions or through several members here- I believe @Charrlie_S is one of them. Or just have a custom convertor built to accommodate the balance and snout issues.
You'll need a carb, manifold, and distributor for the 360. The '92 360 is factory TBI.
You'll need to space the driver's side exhaust manifold out from the head by using a bare header flange, there's interference issues between the head and manifold otherwise. Or else run headers.
you'll need a radiator with a passenger side inlet, they switched sides in '70. Or swap the 273 timing cover and water pump onto the 360.
The passenger side motor mount bracket will need to be modified to fit the 360- lots of threads on here about that. The driver's side bracket will need a 1/2" or so spacer between the rear engine block mount ear and the mount bracket.
You'll need a 360 passenger car oil pan, pickup, dipstick and tube to replace the truck parts on the 360.
And a bunch of little things, like throttle and kickdown linkages that will need to be modified.
It's not as difficult as it sounds, but it's not a "drop in".
Thank you! It gives me a direction. I really appreciate the info.
 
You can also knock the offending corner off the head to get the manifold to sit flat. Mock it up outside the engine compartment and it will be pretty obvious what needs to happen. You'll need to either switch to the 273 water pump and front cover or use a 70-up radiator. The motor mount brackets need a little modification like an added bolt hole and some spacers.
 
You actually don't need to swap the timing cover. Just use the 273 timing indicator, remark the balancer, and ignore the driver's side timing indicator cast into the cover. The indicator swap is for easier ignition timing adjustment. If you're not concerned about easier timing adjustment, just swap the water pump and leave it like it is. Other than rounding up some 360 car-only parts, modifying the motor mount bracket(s), and the other stuff already mentioned, the toughest parts will be the exhaust system and the conversion from a 2bbl to a 4bbl if that's what you will be doing. If your car is already a 4bbl, that swap will be relatively easy depending on which intake and carb you will be using. If you're going to put your stock 273 2bbl setup on there, that will bolt on too, but, not the ideal ticket for performance. It would probably get better mileage though! :lol:
 
You can also knock the offending corner off the head to get the manifold to sit flat. Mock it up outside the engine compartment and it will be pretty obvious what needs to happen.
Try it if you want, but I wouldn't recommend it. I turned a perfectly good 308 head into scrap iron doing that, and it wasn't because I got carried away with the grinder. There's a water jacket just under the surface there, and it doesn't take much to hit it. I hit it before I even removed enough to get the manifold to sit flat. Some people say they've gotten away with it, but I didn't- and I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else, either.
I may weld it up and keep it as a spare for "someday", but ended up going the header flange route on a new head.
 
What kind of headaches will I have
trying to keep it straight comes to mind, whenever the gas pedal is slammed.
I did this in 1975, except with a 340.
There was no room for any exhaust, other than the teeny-weeney 273 logs. So I went with Hooker fenderwell headers. And then I had no room for decent sized front-runners. But it sure looked cool.
My 65 Valiant wagon was a column shift auto but born with a slanty, which had that odd mechanical gas-pedal arrangement. That was the only real thing that I had to deal with.
 
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trying to keep it straight comes to mind, whenever the gas pedal is slammed.
I did this in 1975, except with a 340.
There was no room for any exhaust, other than the teeny-weeney 273 logs. So I went with Hooker fenderwell headers. And then I had no room for decent sized front-runners. But it sure looked cool.
My 65 Valiant wagon was a column shift auto but born with a slanty, which had that odd mechanical gas-pedal arrangement. That was the only real thing that I had to deal with.
trying to keep it straight comes to mind, whenever the gas pedal is slammed.
I did this in 1975, except with a 340.
There was no room for any exhaust, other than the teeny-weeney 273 logs. So I went with Hooker fenderwell headers. And then I had no room for decent sized front-runners. But it sure looked cool.
My 65 Valiant wagon was a column shift auto but born with a slanty, which had that odd mechanical gas-pedal arrangement. That was the only real thing that I had to deal with.


trying to keep it straight comes to mind, whenever the gas pedal is slammed,
Ha, that’s my goal!
 
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