360 magnum

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If you go efi I would use the a-518 out of the magnum donor vehicle also. The ovderdrive is where you will net the most mpg gain.
 
Good question? I know it won't with the stock air cleaner that came with it. The air filter sits on top like the la motor. The newer 5.9s have a flat
housing with a air cleaner up front. It seems like someone must have tried this by swap by now.
 
sireland67 said:
Rust free doors and a hood for $100?
That is worth the money when some teeny bopper texting hit your car.
I have 2X on every sheet metal part since my car is my teenage sons first one.
If he bends it he learns to fix it.
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+1000 , I try to collect body panels , that's a good deal , I would have snapped them up
 
Thanks, lawndart.
Do you know of any information in any mags of how to do this swap? Yours looks great. What gears are you running and what kind of millage do you get?
 
My swap is probably a little more involved than the typical swap. I removed the entire wiring harness as well as everything attached to it from the 1994 Van and transplanted it into the dart, to include wiper switch, ignition switch, fan controls, fuel pump circuit, etc.
The car is together minus the glass and interior, and altho I have done little more than move it around, it is all together and roadworthy. I have not had it on the streets. There is about 347 miles of harness to try and hide and make look good behind the dash, and that has held me up a little, mainly due to time.
The engine bolted in once I swapped with an oil pan and pickup from the LA 360 that came out. The engine and accessories are all complete as they were in the van. I did modify the trans cross member which required about $10.00 in metal and if you have a welder, was quite easy. I had a local machine shop modify a driveshaft for $75.00.
Since the doner van was free, I have next to nothing in the entire thing. I will be happy to help any way i can. Obviously a ton more details but just wanted to offer a short overview.

Attached is a picture of the factory gas tank. I cut out the threaded collar from the plastic tank on the doner car as well as a hole in the dart tank and bonded/screwed the collar to the tank, thus allowing me to use the fuel pump from the van as well.

View attachment 012.jpg

View attachment 033.jpg
 
I also used the magnum exhaust manifolds, pass side was no problem at all. The driver's side was close, but helped by shaving the engine side about .040" at an angle and slightly massaging the area closest to the steering gearbox and then the same area of the gear box itself. I then cut up the factory Y-pipe and made 2 turn downs to supply dual exhaust, but not convinced I am happy and may end using a set of headers that came on the car.
 
Thanks. I wish i would have got the 518. It looked so big that i thought it
would take a lot of floor cutting. It is 300 miles away so i guess i will use my 904. I don't have air or power steering so i am going to keep as simple as i can. I will use a electric fuel pump. I have all the uncut wires and the computer.
 
stan marshall said:
Thanks. I wish i would have got the 518. It looked so big that i thought it
would take a lot of floor cutting. It is 300 miles away so i guess i will use my 904. I don't have air or power steering so i am going to keep as simple as i can. I will use a electric fuel pump. I have all the uncut wires and the computer.
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For the transmission, if you can find an 899 (904 w/ lock up converter) you can net mileage gains with that and there aren't any trans tunnel mods needed as far as I know. You can engage/disengage the lockup with pressure switches.

If you decide to keep the FI and have any questions feel free to ask. I've done two of these swaps in my '74 duster.

The first was a '94 engine that from the factory has a 727 behind it. That engine ultimately got twin turbos also.

The second was a '97 engine with a 44RE (same as an A500), turbos are almost done on this one.

My first combo I averaged with the turbos 16/20 mpg, doing 19/23 now. The wiring isn't very hard and I've recently posted up some diagrams in the "small block tech" section to help anyone doing this swap.

1.For my swaps I got rid of the PDC (power distribution center) and wired in 2 relays (ASD, Fuel Pump). Those are the only relays needed to run the engine.

2.You'll need to supply a constant and a keyed on power source to the ECM and hook up all of your grounds.

3. The computer needs a VSS(vehicle speed sensor) input. I used a speedo gear assembly out of a late 80s dodge truck. The have both a 2 prong connector and a cable driven output (so you can use the factory speedo)

4. You'll need either an inline/intank high pressure fuel pump. I mounted my pump and regulator on the pass frame rail so my return line is short and plums into the vent tube on the factory sending unit.

5. Then you just have to clean up the un-needed wires.
 
Every thing i have came from a 18 passenger church bus. The trans looked huge. Would a 518 out of a durango be smaller? What year and model did they put the 899 in? I am going to keep the fe for sure so i will have more questions. Thanks again.
 
or, you could just buy one of my ready to go harnesses....

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=203010



couple of things.....you need an ASD relay, a fuel pump relay AND a starter relay. I use a small power distribution block that has 3 fuses and 3 relays in one box, keeps it simple and compact....don't reuse the old metal starter relay

you do NOT need to hack up your gas tank to run the truck fuel pump, you don't need to even cut it at all. pull out your sending unit, attach a 1991 lincoln LSC in-tank pump to it (same pressure/flow ratings, but small enough to fit inside the sending unit hole), and run the two wires out through a small hole/grommet you put at the highest point in the tank. done

the VSS isn't necessary. I leave it in my harness in case someone wants to hook up an electronic speedo, other than that, it's really only needed to operate the cruise control. I don't even have it hooked up on my car, it really isnt needed

I got 20mpg in my 4000+lb Fury with this setup going to the nationals, without overdrive. Imagine what it could do with OD in a 3000lb A-body
 
Before you pull the motor: Is it locked up? Does it turn over with a wrench or starter?

If it turns over why don't you take off the heads and put each piston at BDC, then get a 4" wire wheel on a drill and take the rust off of the cylinder walls. I bought a 75 valiant where the guy took off the passenger bank head and left if off for a while and the bores were rusted. I cleaned them up with a wire wheel, then carefully blew out all of the rust and lubed the cylinders with STP or Motor Honey and it ran fine.

Just because there is some surface rust on the bores doesn't mean the game is over for that engine.
 
The 273 was locked up when i puled it. I pulled the intake manifold and saw a lot of rust. I put atf in the cylinders. I am going to keep it because it is the original motor and i know it can be rebuilt. Now i am a lot more interested in the 360 magnum with fe so i am going to go that route.
 
We need to sticky this thread.Been here 14 months,everyone asks me about the factory EFI,and the 518 in pms.
 
stan marshall said:
Every thing i have came from a 18 passenger church bus. The trans looked huge. Would a 518 out of a durango be smaller? What year and model did they put the 899 in? I am going to keep the fe for sure so i will have more questions. Thanks again.
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I'm sorry I have to apologize the transmission I was referencing is actually an A-998/999, not an 899. This is my mistake.
 
393foureyedfox said:
or, you could just buy one of my ready to go harnesses....

[FOR SALE] - 5.2 5.9 magnum EFI plug and play harnesses



couple of things.....you need an ASD relay, a fuel pump relay AND a starter relay. I use a small power distribution block that has 3 fuses and 3 relays in one box, keeps it simple and compact....don't reuse the old metal starter relay

you do NOT need to hack up your gas tank to run the truck fuel pump, you don't need to even cut it at all. pull out your sending unit, attach a 1991 lincoln LSC in-tank pump to it (same pressure/flow ratings, but small enough to fit inside the sending unit hole), and run the two wires out through a small hole/grommet you put at the highest point in the tank. done

the VSS isn't necessary. I leave it in my harness in case someone wants to hook up an electronic speedo, other than that, it's really only needed to operate the cruise control. I don't even have it hooked up on my car, it really isnt needed

I got 20mpg in my 4000+lb Fury with this setup going to the nationals, without overdrive. Imagine what it could do with OD in a 3000lb A-body
Click to expand...

Hi foureyedfox, I like your idea of using a lincoln fuel pump, however, it doesn't appear to have a float for fuel level. How are you getting a fuel level reading?
 
robcuda said:
Hi foureyedfox, I like your idea of using a lincoln fuel pump, however, it doesn't appear to have a float for fuel level. How are you getting a fuel level reading?
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Last reply, Aug. - 2012!
Ya think he figured out the problem yet?
 
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