360 Plug help

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idle is really bad burns your eyes out in a matter of minutes
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Not at all uncommon with those carbs.

BG had a really good dealer program, where a small shop could sell a carb and match Summit or Jegs on price, and still make a decent profit on them.
But, not one of them ever came ootb and ran great with only an idle mixture screw tweak(actually, I take that back…….. there was one).
We’d waste a bunch of time sorting them out on the dyno.
Eventually we just stopped selling them, since an equivalent Holley was so much less trouble to get dialed in …….. and have the customer happy.

Several of the Demon units we got in were real horror shows.
 
PRH said:
Not at all uncommon with those carbs.

BG had a really good dealer program, where a small shop could sell a carb and match Summit or Jegs on price, and still make a decent profit on them.
But, not one of them ever came ootb and ran great with only an idle mixture screw tweak.
We’d waste a bunch of time sorting them out on the dyno.
Eventually we just stopped selling them, since an equivalent Holley was so much less trouble to get dialed in …….. and have the customer happy.

Several of the Demon units we got in were real horror shows.
Click to expand...
I think I'll just get it close for the rest of the year so the kids can go for a ride and over the winter swap the carb out with the Sniper 2 or something else.
 
Newbomb Turk said:
Yeah, no one EVER modifies a Carter/Edelbrock by altering hole sizes.
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Nobody? :D


RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, those are pressed in bleeds. They CAN be changed, but it's pretty labor intensive. They have to be pulled, then the holes tapped for screw in bleeds. If you really want that adjustability, I'd just get a Quick Fuel carburetor and be done with it.
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It’s not hard if you don’t drop one down in the motor or screw up the drilling.


PRH said:
Actually, the Speed Demon’s I’ve played with just had holes drilled in the casting as air bleeds.
They would come with a small zip lock bag of 4 press in bleeds that could be pushed into the idle bleed holes to help richen up the idle, if you thought it needed that.
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TrailBeast said:
Nobody? :D




It’s not hard if you don’t drop one down in the motor or screw up the drilling.




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Yeah, I'd probably remove the carburetor, because I would tap it for screw in bleeds, but you did a good job.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Yeah, I'd probably remove the carburetor, because I would tap it for screw in bleeds, but you did a good job.
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Thanks.
I considered putting replaceable ones in, but I would have had to get flats milled on the carb body to make room for the bleeds.
There wasn’t enough flat area for the heads of screw in bleeds.
 
TrailBeast said:
Thanks.
I considered putting replaceable ones in, but I would have had to get flats milled on the carb body to make room for the bleeds.
There wasn’t enough flat area for the heads of screw in bleeds.
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You did better than I would have in any event. I wouldda had to chunk it in the trash can when I was done.
 
Well I got it back together and it runs so rich at idle I need to pull the PCV vacuum hose off to get it to idle.

Off idle sounds great, idle sucks donkey balls.

I put everything in the sonic cleaner when it was apart to clean them then blew out all the passages unless the idle one I need to remove pressed in plugs?
 
What I actually meant in post #8 but wrote it badly....is that for several decades Holley carbs worked fine with non-removable air bleeds....
 
Can you kill it by screwing the idle mixture screws all the way in? Does it respond at all to changes to the mixture screws? Barely snug. If not, it’s getting fuel from somewhere else. Float level? What is the fuel pressure? Is fuel dripping out of the boosters? Dripping out of the accelerator nozzles? Is it a two or four corner idle mixture screws?
 
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