360 small block (big power)

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Hondakiller don't believe everything you read. Even in a Mopar book. I have seen quite a few errors in various books over the yrs. Makes it hard on the new guys that don't know.

If you want a good book on strokers there's a book out by Jim Szilagyi entitled How To Build Big-Inch Mopar Small Blocks. It has allot of good info to get you started. I found it on E-bay for about $20
 
yeah i saw that book at barns and nobels but didt think to pick it up ...its tuff being a young gun i got lot years i missed out on and im trying to chatch up my dad helps best his knowleg but all he seems to know is big blocks which nothing wrong with that i guess ..but i do apricate all that have help the more replys i get to this post more i learn

P.s. i know i need get a real computer instead useing my phone type all this out at least half my words would be spelt right lol
 
3404spdvaliant said:
Anyone figure the port volume requirements of a 4' stroker?
cause I think the edelbrocks are a lil lite?
Click to expand...

You are correct. The Edelbrock heads do not have a optimal (sp) amount of port volume for a stroker (400+ cube) engine. OOTB, there good untill approx. A 370 cid engine.
Once ported, they'll meet the requirements.

You might want to consider other heads that have a higher performance ceiling.
 
A well prepared 360 Stroker will produce an easy 520+ HP for sure. This is what I am building right now. The Short Block should be complete tomorrow afternoon.

360 LA Block
4340 4" Eagle Crank
Eagle H Beam Rods
Hughes Main Girdle
Srp Forged Dish Pistons at 16.9 good for some JUICE
Stage 3 Edelbrock Heads 58cc chamber from Hughes Magnum Oiling
1.6 Hughes Roller Rockers with Jomar Rocker Girdle
Hughes Solid Flat Tappet Cam Specs

HTL5660AS
Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5.579"
.587"Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6.614"
.626"Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050"256°
260°Lobe Separation Angle106Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050"25° BTC
59° BBCIntake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050"51° ABC

Port Matched Super Victor Intake, I havent chose carb yet but I am heavily leaning toward 750 or 850 Mighty Demon Mechanical Secondarys worked over by Don at FBO. Oh yeah and a Milodon 8QT pan.

I believe that this combination should be in the 580hp range with approx TQ hopefully the same before 5000 rpm. Compression should be around 10.9:1
Pump Gas at 1226 Elevation. 4spd Center Force Aluminum Flywheel, Center Force Clutch, Quicktime Scattershield, Studded Heads, Cometic Gaskets and a
150 Single Stage of Juice, dont know if I will need it but just in case. Digital 6 Ignition and one of FBO's Distributors curved for my car with 3:91 gears mostly for street abuse.........TTI Headers, full length 3 inch exhaust all the way out the back and electric cut outs to let it breath better when needed.

Caltracs, rancho 9 ways in the rear and 90/10 caltrac shocks up front.

Going in 70 Dodge Dart original # matching 340 4spd. Stock Sleeper appearance.

Hopefully it should be on the street in 3 or 4 weeks.
 
I got my full rotating assembly 4340 eagle crank, eagle H Beam Rods, Forged SRP Pistons, pins, Perfect Circle file fit Moly Rings and clevite bearings all balanced for 1800.00 out the door including delivery. I shopped for a while and this is the cheapest I found.

Call Frank he will hook you up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Frank Eskra
Super Engine Builders
3700 Hale Ln
Island Lake, IL 60042
847-487-5923
http://www.gofaststuff.com/
 
Here's the specs on the stroker I'm building right now. It's quite a bit milder than the one Mad Dart is building but I mainly cruise. It should be a stump puller I think and in my Cuda with the 3000 stall and 3.73 gears should be able to run mid to low 12's traction providing. It should be a real mild cruiser also.

360 block sonic tested before any machine work to make sure it was good and solid then fully prepped as stated below.

Bored .030 and honed with torque plates, square decked, main studs installed and line honed. Rotating assy. will be internally balanced.

Rotating assy is a Eagle cast crank, SCAT I beam's, Wiseco Pro-tru forged pistons.

These pistons are super light and the rods are quite a bit lighter than stock. In the end this piston set (including pins) and rod set only weighs approx. what 6 stock pistons and rods weigh so it should spin up real fast and be strong. Also because the pistons and rods were so light my machinist says he don't think he'll have to add any Mallory metal to balance it internally. If he does it'll be the minimal amount.

Heads: Hughes 2.02 valve Iron Rams with Hughes racing valve job and home ported by me. Should flow about 265-270 int and 200 exh when I'm done.

Cam: Hughes HEH4246AL10
int @ .050- 242
exh @ .050- 246
lift with 1.6 rockers
int- .592
exh- .606
Lobe separation- 110

Intake is a eddy Air-gap and the Carb is a 750 Holley.

This should be good for about 430 hp and a ton of torque according to my figures. Not a strip brute but sure will be fun on the street with big block torque.
 
I just put together a 410 stroker [360 +.040]
I bought the kit through Ohio Crankshaft for $950 internal balance/tax+$1340
This is what the kit consisted of....

Scat nodular crank
H-beams bushed w/ARP 2000
KB 356 hypers 498grams= 9.8 set up at .039 clearance to head.
Speed Pro moly rings
Speed pro main bearings
Clevite rod bearings for radius journal
Internally balanced assembly

The cam I'm using is an Engle KV-3 [custom] I had it changed a lil to .573 252* @ .050 284*adv dur 110cl
I'm using 915 j heads [was gonna use 974 74-75' heads but a friend gave me the j's witch already had seats put in the int & exh]
The j's are pretty well ported [no more roof hump at all, no more push rod pinch, long profiled guide, and cut down the bulged floor on the straight of the short side which was then lay'd back with the rest].
I have dropped these at PROAIR to be flowed [we expect 260-270cfm] but we'll find out when there done[maybe I'll post pics]

This all going into a 3192lb 4psd 3.73 geared valiant.
I was going to just throw on the set of x heads from my 340 that are 'mildly ported', in comparison to the j's, that flow 242-185cfm which is plenty enough for 498hp.
The carb is a proform 850 main body with billet throttle plate and billet metering block kit [It's cheaper then buying a complete carb]
And don't buy the regular 850 dp for a radical cam engine the calibration is lean in most cases, if you do you'll end up with aftrmrt metering blks & main bdy w/adj air bleeds to be right.
 
Fishy 68,

My buddy has the same car as me and built the same engine as yours based on a 340 block with no stroke, same cam intake and heads worked just about the same as yours.

His Dyno'd at 460 hp at 6200 and 450 ft of torque before 5000 rpm.

Yours should be over 500hp and a torque monster before 5000 for sure!!!!!

I almost went with the Iron Ram Heads, they are a super great choice and have tons of power potential for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I can give you some insight on 2 different small blocks..the first is a 416 stroker,4" crank,eagle rods,diamond flat top pistons 11 to 1 comp. Lunati voodoo series cam .533/.552 lift,edelbrock heads mild street port work,comp cam roller rockers,air gap intake,fuel technology 850 carb,complete msd system,tti headers..this motor pumped out 520 h.p. 500 lbs of tq. and ran 11.0's @120 in my '70 duster presently this motor is out for repairs..The second is a 360 i just installed 3 weeks ago bored .30 over, decked,running a "stock" crank,eagle rods,speed pro pistons 10.8 to 1 comp.Lunati voodoo cam .513/.533 same heads,intake,carb,ignition,headers as above this combination has gone 11.85 @111 so far i'm sure i'll get it into the 11.70's soon,which ain't bad for a 360 :-D
 
thats what i want right there lol but what was car wight for 11.0s? was that pump gas or race fuel
 
hondakiller said:
thats what i want right there lol but what was car wight for 11.0s? was that pump gas or race fuel
Click to expand...

Factory weight which is 3180 with full interior and the added weight of a six-point rollbar,and through a full exhaust on 93 pump gas,oh and i weight 270 too...
 
thats whats up what rear did you do with and what is your trans setup and i take it the engine was also bored 30over??
 
Mad Dart said:
Fishy 68,

My buddy has the same car as me and built the same engine as yours based on a 340 block with no stroke, same cam intake and heads worked just about the same as yours.

His Dyno'd at 460 hp at 6200 and 450 ft of torque before 5000 rpm.

Yours should be over 500hp and a torque monster before 5000 for sure!!!!!

I almost went with the Iron Ram Heads, they are a super great choice and have tons of power potential for sure!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for the info Mad Dart. That's more than I expected but this is the first stroker I ever built. I hope mines that good. That'd be very cool. The Iron Rams are a really good head for the price.
 
hondakiller said:
thats whats up what rear did you do with and what is your trans setup and i take it the engine was also bored 30over??
Click to expand...

Trans is a 904 full manual valvebody,race clutches,low first gear kickdown,3800 stall converter...rearend is a 8 3/4, moser axles with the stroker i ran 3.91's,with the 360 i'm running 4.30's with a spool....
 
Full dished pistons you use the flat around the perimeter of the piston top. On the more common forged quench dish, it's just the flat area that matches the head surface.
 
If and only if all the steps are taken to properly do it, I run tighter. The last RB 505" I did had .030. typically I want tighter than .040, and I will bring the piston up .010 proud to get that with std gaskets. There is power to be found and no loss of effect going tighter. There is a loss on both issues going wider. No 4" arm under 6500rpm small block will have a problem running .030 unless your running aluminum rods for some strange reason. But this means the stroke has to be exactly on, as do the rod lengths, and the deck height all the way accross the decks. Differences of .003" or more can cause problems at that level. So for the most part you'll see me say run zero deck and the .040-.043 gaskets. That allows for some error on the part of parts and machining and still give a strong lowering of detonation and power production.
 
My pistons are out of the hole about .018, Forged 16.9 dish, The first machine shop that had my block jacked up on the deck hieght. I didnt find out until yesterday when the bottom went together. So now I need to run cometic .060 gaskets to make up for his $%#&&%!!!!! up.... I still cant believe it......... 410 Stroker with 58cc closed chamber edelbrock heads. compression will be 10.95:1 with .042 quench.............this is a 4spd with a digital 6 ignition. Running on 91 octane at 1226 elevation. cam is a Hughes HTL5660AS Solid Flat Tappet 106* lobe seperation 256* @ .050 with Cool Face lifters.

I am thankful that technology has increased and we have plenty of head gasket thickness choices out there for sure...........

Anyone used the FLATOUT copper head gaskets????????????
 
hondakiller said:
While ago i found few people with 360 in there a bodies that where turning some good times on the track all motor now that it is time for me dig in to my pocket cant seem to find they setups so if any one could help me out that would be great im shooting for low 11 high 10 on all motor i know it can be done i have seen it idk if that was on octane 93 or not tho so if any one could help me out thanks ..sorry about the spelling and gramer im typeing all this from my cell phone
Click to expand...

The combo that I have in my Dart Sport is as follows;
1985 360 block, bored .020 over, final hone w/tourque plate
KB107 pistons @ zero deck, Speed Pro file fit moly rings
Stock 340 blueprited rods (full floating pins)
Stock 360 crank, R.010/M.010 Clevite bearings
Balanced
Windage tray, Moroso pan ( 7qts 10W30), Stock oil pump
Camshaft; Hughes solid lifter HTL5256AS, & lifters
Timing gear set; Hughes 6442 Pro-Gear set
Heads; out of the box, closed chamber Edelbrocks ( no port work )
Valve springs; Hughes 1111, set to their specs
Head gaskets; Victor graphite .039 thickness
Intake; Holley Strip Dominator ( no port work)
Valve train; Crane ductile adj., Comp push rods
Carb; Holley D/P 750 CFM, no power valves, 78 frt jet-80 RR, rr 50cc acc. pmp
Ignition; MSD6AL box, Taylor 8MM wires, MSD coil, & Mopar tach drive elect.
timing set @ 32 degrees
Headers; Hooker 1 3/4 with 12" extensions
Transmission; T/F 999 with a 2.74 low gear set, Turbo Action manual valve body, & 9 1/2 Dynamic convertor ( we foot brake at 2300 RPM )
Rear axle; 8 3/4 with a 4:30 gear set, SureGrip, & Yukon axles
Car weight; W/driver 3360 lbs.
Best ET, 11.62 @ 114 MPH, Best 60ft 1.55
Best ET with a 125 shot of NOS, 10:82 @ 123 MPH ( spinning )
Car 1973 Dart Sport, full interior, all steel, no roll bar. I can drive it on the street when I have the exhaust system on it.
Suspention; stock T-Bars, 90/10 frt. shocks, stock rear ( high milage ) leaf springs & shocks
I do think that with more tuning that this combo would in the lower 11's, but we bracket race it & by the rules, I would have to install a roll bar.
I know my list is long, but there is more to a certain combination to make power or to get results that you are looking for. I do have people that ask me if its a 408 or a 416. I just smile & tell them the truth. I have approx. 240 passes on this whole powertrain, it has been very reliable.
 
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