383 or 318

-
I'm pretty sure 318willrun is a fan of 318's ?
Yet he chose 383, just like most everyone else.
It did not say stroker.
But hey you can make a 499 cubic inch 383 .
Seriously! As someone says just make the 318 into a 390….
Make the freaking 383 bigger and no one will know.
 
One of the best benefits of starting with larger displacements is you can get decent performance with less rear gear running a 2.76 behind a 383 would be like 3.55 with a 318 or 3.55/383 is like 4.30/318 etc..
 
As someone that is doing a 318 right now.. (maybe 390) when i look at the cost i could have easily done a 383 or 400 and made easy power even without stroking, and stroking to 500 inch.. yeah i chose poorly :) if you can do the 383 do it.. i mainly wanted to keep my pushbutton trans so i stayed small block
 
So I guess that's a no?
 
a [email protected] x 3.375, dimensionally, is just a big bore 318(3.91 x 3.315); but carrying a bit of extra weight.
You can make your 318 into a 390 pretty easy and cheeply, and only you will know it. The extra torque at low rpm will be well worth it. Put some alloy heads on it and crank up the pressure, and you'll forget all about the 383.

Or leave the 318 at stock stroke, but install an A500/518 with overdrive and LU, and some 3.91s to 4.30s in the back...... which is what I would do......
Even if the 318 is a lo-compression oil-burning pig, those 4.30s are gonna level the playing field.
I can't believe all the 318haters coming out of the woodwork today.
lol.
So I guess that's a no?
Either way he goes I'm sure that he'll have a fun car
 
Remember that the 383 is at least 52 years old, I can't see it not having to be bored unless it was rebuilt in the past and has been taken care of and has low mileage. Cam, 4 barrel, cylinder head work or aftermarket heads, the 383 will not get any benefits of these modifications if it has low compression due to excessive cylinder bore taper. If it has a ridge at the top of the bore chances are good that it will need to be bored. Not trying to be negative, just hate to see you put it together and then be disappointed in its performance.
I did many ridge-ream/hand-hone builds, if it's in-spec, it's in spec. I'm sure the OP will have it checked out. My ridge reamer is a lock-in-bore type with a carbide bit, not the three-flute, turn the whole mess type.
I was definitely not disappointed in the performance of the 383 I did for the '83 ex-Popo Dippy.
 
Ok, that's what I was thinking, so big block or small block won't be much of a difference in the equation as far as parts and labor goes. Thanks!
Exactly. Theoretically if the motor and transmission cost is the same, the cost of the swap is the same with the exception of headers.

I think if the ultimate goal is HP, the big block is the way to go when you factor dollar per HP. I never realized how awesome the second hand market for big block performance parts was until I got my 383.
 
...
I was definitely not disappointed in the performance of the 383 I did for the '83 ex-Popo Dippy.
Many years ago I started out with 340s. Cheap and plentiful. When I bought my first BB car ('69 RR w/ an unknown 440), I was hooked. Of course, 383s were to be left behind where you found them. That opinion changed in '12 when we bought a 383 from Mike McCandless for a song to put in my son's '71 Charger. Out of one of their drag cars with low hours and lightly worked over. My thoughts about 383s changed drastically after the first drive. :thumbsup:
 
Anything can be built to go fast.
As stated many times there is no replacement for displacement!
Why do they make strokers ?
TORQUE !
DISPLACEMENT !
That's my final answer, I already had plenty of help from friends .
 
Many years ago I started out with 340s. Cheap and plentiful. When I bought my first BB car ('69 RR w/ an unknown 440), I was hooked. Of course, 383s were to be left behind where you found them. That opinion changed in '12 when we bought a 383 from Mike McCandless for a song to put in my son's '71 Charger. Out of one of their drag cars with low hours and lightly worked over. My thoughts about 383s changed drastically after the first drive. :thumbsup:
:thumbsup:
 
Ok, that's what I was thinking, so big block or small block won't be much of a difference in the equation as far as parts and labor goes. Thanks!
Ummmmm, yea kind of. Considering I’ve done both a couple of times, the performance ceiling and bang for the buck ultimately is in the big blocks favor. The draw back to the big block could be the same depending on what the car started out with or is still capable of. Here is an example of what I’m trying to get across.

If the car was a slant 6, the radiator might be capable of cooling the small block. But more than likely not the big block. Even the small block radiator falls in with this. Then there’s the age of the part and its efficiency. Since HP creates heat, is the radiator in the car enough. In order to cool down some of the hotter HP engines, I used an aluminum radiator from Summit. Cheap and effective. On the big block in the Duster, the later year 400’s have the later style water pumps with the same set up as the small blocks from the later 70’s. Passenger side lower, driver side upper. Then the same with brakes & suspension.

It’s not a given replacement item but there is the above to ponder and consider a cost to be made and a savings if not spent.

OH! Torsion bars. I see a lot of posts saying the /6 bars aren’t enough. IMO, it’s a personal feel of what you’re willing to or not in living with how the car handles. I lived with /6 bars and the 400 B engine without issue & IMO, it wasn’t bad. The next guy however my state a big LMAO! Then say I’m nutz!

The price of headers are a super small bag of peanuts in the overall expenditure as well as other small parts. The best all around off the shelf header & exhaust system is a TTI set up.
Price differences are laughable. While you could get away very cheaply with a small block exhaust system from Summit with there headers and exhaust system, the same can not be done with a big block and the piper has to be paid a little higher price. For the extra power, the price is worth it.

The other draw back of a big block is weight which can mostly be leveled by aluminum parts to make the big block as light as possible and get it down to about the stock all iron weight of a small block. Not bad IMO. Of course putting the same shoe on a small block just makes it better.

I don’t think ether way is a wrong choice.
 
If you like scary, big block is the choice in an A-body.
A friend of my dad was a 1970 340 4spd Duster owner, in 1980 I let him drive my 67 Fastback with the 383 Torqueflite and 4.57's.
Within 6 months he bought a 68 Fastback to DROP A 440 in. He is the guy that built me a nice set of motor mounts from a diagram he found in Hot Rod.
He was an old street racer from Cleveland, Ohio in the mid 70's. He never built another small block again.
He's 82 years old now, still has the 440 68 , last time he ran it at the track was 2015 running 9.10's.
 
Ummmmm, yea kind of. Considering I’ve done both a couple of times, the performance ceiling and bang for the buck ultimately is in the big blocks favor. The draw back to the big block could be the same depending on what the car started out with or is still capable of. Here is an example of what I’m trying to get across.

If the car was a slant 6, the radiator might be capable of cooling the small block. But more than likely not the big block. Even the small block radiator falls in with this. Then there’s the age of the part and its efficiency. Since HP creates heat, is the radiator in the car enough. In order to cool down some of the hotter HP engines, I used an aluminum radiator from Summit. Cheap and effective. On the big block in the Duster, the later year 400’s have the later style water pumps with the same set up as the small blocks from the later 70’s. Passenger side lower, driver side upper. Then the same with brakes & suspension.

It’s not a given replacement item but there is the above to ponder and consider a cost to be made and a savings if not spent.

OH! Torsion bars. I see a lot of posts saying the /6 bars aren’t enough. IMO, it’s a personal feel of what you’re willing to or not in living with how the car handles. I lived with /6 bars and the 400 B engine without issue & IMO, it wasn’t bad. The next guy however my state a big LMAO! Then say I’m nutz!

The price of headers are a super small bag of peanuts in the overall expenditure as well as other small parts. The best all around off the shelf header & exhaust system is a TTI set up.
Price differences are laughable. While you could get away very cheaply with a small block exhaust system from Summit with there headers and exhaust system, the same can not be done with a big block and the piper has to be paid a little higher price. For the extra power, the price is worth it.

The other draw back of a big block is weight which can mostly be leveled by aluminum parts to make the big block as light as possible and get it down to about the stock all iron weight of a small block. Not bad IMO. Of course putting the same shoe on a small block just makes it better.

I don’t think ether way is a wrong choice.
Lots of more good points to ponder. When I look at an A body I smile when I see a big block in it.
 
If you like scary, big block is the choice in an A-body.
A friend of my dad was a 1970 340 4spd Duster owner, in 1980 I let him drive my 67 Fastback with the 383 Torqueflite and 4.57's.
Within 6 months he bought a 68 Fastback to DROP A 440 in. He is the guy that built me a nice set of motor mounts from a diagram he found in Hot Rod.
He was an old street racer from Cleveland, Ohio in the mid 70's. He never built another small block again.
He's 82 years old now, still has the 440 68 , last time he ran it at the track was 2015 running 9.10's.
I 100% agree with that statement. The only exception being @MOPAROFFICIAL 340 Valiant. Pinned me so hard in the passenger seat that it lifted the sheet metal under the bolts. That little motor was wicked.
 
I 100% agree with that statement. The only exception being @MOPAROFFICIAL 340 Valiant. Pinned me so hard in the passenger seat that it lifted the sheet metal under the bolts. That little motor was wicked.
Nice ! does his passenger seat lean back a little further than the driver seat. :D
 
Now some people are talking strokers the original post was 318 or 383 I'll take a 318(can't believe I'm saying this) with the bolt-on's I mentioned above on both a 318 or 383 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
How so a small block Mopar looks nothing like a sb Chevy..
My auto tech teacher told us in the mid 90s " a small block Mopar is a cheap imitation of a small block chevy" keep in mind back then no one loved Mopars except a small group of car guys. And any mopar worth having back then was a big block car LOL! different times for sure. Not saying the shop teacher was correct that was his opinion. thing is mopar has good stuff lik ethe shaft mount rockers...ive seen more issues with stud mounted rockers than Ive ever seen with shaft mount.

I think I've said it before but I'd take the 383 more HP even in early 70s smog form
 
Now some people are talking strokers the original post was 318 or 383 I'll take a 318(can't believe I'm saying this) with the bolt-on's I mentioned above on both a 318 or 383 :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
Must have never had a big block in an a body ?
I love 340's and 360's have rode in a couple nice 318's
But the torque of a big block in an a body is nothing but smiles and pulling hard especially on the street !
Flick of the pedal and you are smoldering the tires.
Can a small block do that , Yes!
Can a stock 318 no way !
Can a stock 383 absolutely in an a body easy 13 second car with traction.
Power to weight all day long !
Now add some bolt on and 12's are right there with traction.
 
Must have never had a big block in an a body ?
I love 340's and 360's have rode in a couple nice 318's
But the torque of a big block in an a body is nothing but smiles and pulling hard especially on the street !
Flick of the pedal and you are smoldering the tires.
Can a small block do that , Yes!
Can a stock 318 no way !
Can a stock 383 absolutely in an a body easy 13 second car with traction.
Power to weight all day long !
Now add some bolt on and 12's are right there with traction.
Ding ding ding!!!!!

Power to weight ratio!
 
Really hating this thread, Starting to wonder what Mancinis return policy is :)
 
-
Back
Top