383 with Eddy heads!

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my 2 cents worth. call 440 sorce and order a $1995.00, 383/438 stroker kit. use 906 or 452 heads with 2.14/1.81 or 2.19/1.81 vales for more top end. mild porting. a Howards .630 lift roller solid cam. now you got a 10 sec ride...with Iron heads. if you want to spend money spend it in the right spots. eddys are garbage. Indys or Brodix B1's if you have money to burn.
 
Yeah scratch that,found out the heads are the 516's.I'll just buy the eddies.Will the compression be up enough for the cams?
 
Cant afford the stroker,plus this going in a heavy truck.Plus already have crank.Well my buddy has a 440 crank i could put in it and sell the 383 crank!As far as a stroker kit goes,cant afford it right now but I like the idea of a 431!
 
petreed150 said:
Yeah scratch that,found out the heads are the 516's.I'll just buy the eddies.Will the compression be up enough for the cams?
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KB162, zero deck, mill the 84cc head surface .024" and the head's intake surface .030". 9.4:1 and your dynamic will still be around 8:1, should work fine.

If someone now comes up with the story that you have to run another point of compression with the aluminum heads, because of greater heat transfer, it's just not true.
 
all you have to do to a set of 516 is over-size the exhaust valves. I did a 383 with 516 heads and only put 1.74 exhaust valves out of a 906 head. that motor won me many dollars and trophys in my mud bogger. 440 would not touch me. the 440 is a turd motor unless you lighten up the rotating assembly. The pistons are just heavy because of a 2 inch comp. height. plus the stock 383 has the best rod ratio of any production motor 1.86:1 (on memory not sure) formula is: rod length/stroke. and 383 is lighter.
 
Alright i just wanting to check something here.If i was to use kb162 pistons and decided to take my father in laws offer on the 516 heads,what would i need to do to make this setup work with voodoo 60303 or xe274 cam?If this setup wont do much better than my 318,then i want to buy the 84cc eddy heads.I am staying between them two cams for the torque.If i run the eddy heads i will run 1.6 rockers.But stroker is out of question here.My main concern is which piston is best choice.I havent bought heads but want to order cam soon.You guys are big help and i am on budget.So which pistons and which heads?
 
Nope, I ain't tellin'. You have enough information, if you read back through the posts, to make this decision on your own now, and take the responsibility for it.

What does it cost to rebuild a set of factory iron heads with new guides, valves, springs, seals and have them ported to the level of the Edelbrocks? You know the ones I'm talkin' 'bout, those "garbage" heads.
 
IQ52 said:
If someone now comes up with the story that you have to run another point of compression with the aluminum heads, because of greater heat transfer, it's just not true.
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Agreed. I rather say, "1 point more is allowable." rather than a must.
 
You've chosen the cam and the heads. Now the question is, do I play it safe or am I a racer?
 
IQ52 said:
Nope, I ain't tellin'. You have enough information, if you read back through the posts, to make this decision on your own now, and take the responsibility for it.

What does it cost to rebuild a set of factory iron heads with new guides, valves, springs, seals and have them ported to the level of the Edelbrocks? You know the ones I'm talkin' 'bout, those "garbage" heads.
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You will spend more to get the 516's done than the Edelbrocks will cost new. Not to mention the weight savings. I have worked 516's on my 383, they work great, but it took many trips on and off the flow bench, and the Edelbrocks still flow more. Mine were done close to 15 years ago, and I had close to $1,000 in them back then. As far as compression goes, I like it as high as you can get it and still run an aggressive timing curve without detonation.
IQ52 has forgotten more than I'll ever know, so he may correct me on that. I wouldn't be afraid to shoot for 10.0/1 with aluminum heads at all.
 
I'm not! 11-1 360 on 93 octane, 4spd, 4.10's, cams have been numerous. 292 purple, 288 purple oval track, 296S from Comp....

The key is attention to distributor timing and carb jetting.
 
Well i gonna run 1.6 rockers so my cam choice is the voodoo 60303 and also is the 3-bolt design.Have you guys looked at the PRW 1.6 stainless rockers?
 
So, this is about "Glory Days" or helping someone build a strong and safe engine until they have the experience to build one that'll run on the razor's edge?
 
I can only afford the KB pistons so i am still undecided on which ones but i feel 750 carb,head work,2800 stall and 4.10 gear!
 
IQ52 said:
So, this is about "Glory Days" or helping someone build a strong and safe engine until they have the experience to build one that'll run on the razor's edge?
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:wack:

Just remembering grand pops thank you.

How about you?

You've chosen the cam and the heads. Now the question is, do I play it safe or am I a racer?
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The question of the day with the OE poster.

Nope, I ain't tellin'. You have enough information, if you read back through the posts, to make this decision on your own now, and take the responsibility for it.
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Point it out to him. He missed it.
 
Hey Rumble, guess we should reminisce in another thread :smile:.

I didn't see any harm since the OP still hasn't got his 318 in yet and this build is not urgent.
 
Eh, no biggie, IQ is a solid dude and means well. Just bustin.
 
not sure what to say. I have a set of 906 heads on my 10 sec street car. maybe I have 400 dollars into the heads. when you oversize the valves you get a nice fresh seat on the heads. Do you plan on tring to drive the thing 200,00 miles? then hardened seat is really not needed. 452 heads have a hardened seat but its only flame hardened. it is not a seat that is pressed into the head like an aluminum head would have. all my motor is, is a 400 block with 440 crank that uses small block chevy journal on the rods to offset gride the crank to 3.9 stroke. its 470 cubes and makes all its power under 6500 rpm. because of the heads. calulated out so far the HP is around 530 actual HP. the eddys would probally make more power but not much. I have a set of B1 heads with 2.400 intakes that flow almost 460 cfm on intake and 325 on exhaust. just waiting to buy a aftermarket block for that build. my point is that you can make good power with stock heads. and not have to spend a fortune. and one more thing. rollers cams do not make any more power because there is a roller on the lifter. it makes more power cause you can run higher lifts and more duration. and steeper ramp angles.
 
Thanks guys for the talk.This build aint gonna happen yet.Just wanted to see some thoughts.All my friends here are chevy,There is not many mopars here.Just a little excited bout a 383bb!But soon as i get the 318 running I will let you guys know and everything in the 383 setup that you guys said to use is ganna be used.Thanks!
 
petreed150 said:
Well i gonna run 1.6 rockers so my cam choice is the voodoo 60303 and also is the 3-bolt design.Have you guys looked at the PRW 1.6 stainless rockers?
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I've used the stainless 1.6 PRW rockers. I like them for street builds. The trouble I have with them is they are very dirty as delivered. Oh they look clean, but they have machining chips stuck everywhere. It is neccessary to completely disassemble them, run a drill through every oil hole, run a tap through the adjuster holes in the rocker bodies and the adjuster nuts and run a die over every adjuster screw. Then deburr all the holes in the rocker shafts and flush the inside of the rocker shaft. If you do not do this you run the risk of galling the rocker to the rocker shaft even though there are brass bushings in the rocker fulcrums.

You should do this with ANY rocker system to be safe. I even have to do the same thing to the Harland Sharp rockers I use, its no big deal.

With the stainless PRWs the adjuster screw cups should seat completely up into the rocker body with no threads showing, and often they do not, so you have to get replacement rockers and send the faulty ones back. PRW will do this gladly but it is lost time.

The reason they should set into the rocker body is so the oil hole lines up with the oil band on the adjusting screw. To set the rocker for measuring the pushrod length, you turn the adjusting screw into the rocker body all the way until it stops, then turn it out one turn and the oil band will be centered on the oil supply hole in the rocker. Then measure for pushrod length. It is generally said that one to two threads will be showing when the adjusting screw is in the proper position. NOT WITH THE PRW SS ROCKER. When you turn the adjusting screw down one turn there will be NO threads showing because you are starting with the adjuster cup turned up into the rocker body.

I'm sure others use them any-ol-way but this is how I clean them and set them up.
 
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