383B Stroker Build

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roccodart440

roccodart440

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I just picked up a 1968 383 complete engine for 150$

I want to go stroker, N/A, raised port aluminum heads and run on pump gas with it.

First I need to figure out what stroker combo to run.

I see 440 source has 2

383>>496, 4.250
383>>438 3.750"

Why isn't there on with the 4.15 stroke??

Is it possible to put a 440 crank in this engine? I'd assume yes, just needs to be cut down right?

I'm all ears to options and recomendations.
 
The 3.75 is a 440 stroke right?
Wanting to run a raised Port is probably best suited for the larger engine. Which head were you thinking about running?
 
Victor Max wedge most likely. As far as a large engine if I went 496 that seems pretty big to me. Maybe by todays standards it isn't?

Another plus is that headers fit a B engine with RP heads.

and yes, 3.75 is stock 440 stroke.
 
Thanks Rocco, rhetorical question.
500 cubes is big. While the real limits are wallet and mechanical, I'd say a 500 is just about right for the mini bike.... As soon as someone gets the frame issues squared away....
 
roccodart440 said:
I just picked up a 1968 383 complete engine for 150$

I want to go stroker, N/A, raised port aluminum heads and run on pump gas with it.

First I need to figure out what stroker combo to run.

I see 440 source has 2

383>>496, 4.250
383>>438 3.750"

Why isn't there on with the 4.15 stroke??

Is it possible to put a 440 crank in this engine? I'd assume yes, just needs to be cut down right?

I'm all ears to options and recomendations.
Click to expand...

First off, may I ask how much power you are targeting ?
and,
keeping in mind rpm is a function of hp, just what range you are looking at that hp ? upper and LOWER.

Because the Car is 50% of the equation.... and serves as the platform to run the Engine, things like Tire Diameter, Gearing, Primary Header Tube Size, Fuel System, Cooling System, etc., etc., must also be conduscive ?
just sayin.... and for example here,
in my world when guys start talking hi ports like the Victors on Strokers... more than capable above 600-650+ hp.... too often things like supplying "fuel" get overlooked. Just no way it can be supplied sufficient BTU's in Fuel through a 5/16" or 3/8" Line and stock Tank Pickup ?
or,
a 10-15% bigger Engine, at hp, can produce up to 30-40% more heat to cool in a tight engine bay ?

No matter, I am sure you will figure all that out.
Just wondering how much you are targeting with Victors on a Stroker ? .... and with the stock 2 bolt 383 thin web mains ?
 
That's odd-I noticed they don't sell a kit, but they do sell the crankshaft itself to fit in a B block...you could run one, but it would be custom piston or rod length...lamesauce.

Yes a stock 440 crank can be cut down, or the block clearanced...Fisher did the 440 forged crank in a 383. If you haven't seen his build, he used a 440 crank, Diamond pistons and H beam rods, Edelbrock heads, a Lunati solid 272/280 cam, can't recall intake and exhaust, but it cranked out over 500/500 on the dyno IIRC.
 
That's the wonderful thing about strokers is they just Barr out power. And the 2 bolt mains take a good amount of power. Paying attention to that area when building it up is a smart idea.
 
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...mance_383_stroker_engine/edelbrock_heads.html

you might be able to just get a 440 forged crank somewhere cheaper (check local machine shops, they probably have one laying around lol) and just get your rods/pistons and save a few hundred dollars.

the raised port aluminum heads will give you a slight bonus over just a set of eddy heads, but they cost more $$$; plus with max wedge runners you severely limit choices on intakes, unless you want to get one modified.

best bang for buck is 440 crank, diamond pistons, eddy or stealth heads and performer rpm intake. especially if it's for street use.

if you are bracket racing i'd go with the stage III / VI / etc you will notice the difference at the higher rpms. but then you need to think solid lifters, modified oiling etc for the high rpms.
 
That may be a likelihood-I know I've seen forged 440 cranks on eBay for as little as 200 in serviceable condition. The 440 Source cranks are $700 as advertised...I guess it depends on how much you want to spend, as the 440 cranks will either need to be cut to fit the block, or the block clearanced to fit the crank...and this is one I can't speak to, but if you're using B length rods, I don't know if the counterweights will clear the piston skirts at BDC without being cut.

If I were doing a 383 stroker, I'd likely use a similar recipe to what Fisher used or what moparlover suggested above...but my toy would likely be driven more than raced.
 
Challenger340 said:
First off, may I ask how much power you are targeting ?

650hp+
Because the Car is 50% of the equation.... and serves as the platform to run the Engine, things like Tire Diameter, Gearing, Primary Header Tube Size, Fuel System, Cooling System, etc., etc., must also be conduscive ?
just sayin.... and for example here,

This will go in an A body. I'[m very aware of the needs of a bigh HP engine. I.e. My car has #10 line with #8 return. A1000 pump. Aluminum 28" radiator, 29x12.50 tires, dana, 4:56 gears with GVOD, 2" headers 3500 stall, trans cooler. etc.

No matter, I am sure you will figure all that out.
Just wondering how much you are targeting with Victors on a Stroker ? .... and with the stock 2 bolt 383 thin web mains ?
Click to expand...

Now school me on this but I thought the B engines were stronger than the RB's? RB's are 2 bolt mains too.

I run studded mains and toyed with the idea of a very mild block fill.
 
hey rocco there was a thread about a year ago too

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=230220&highlight=hutch

i posted about the guy running low 10's with 385 based on a 383

it's 11:1 runs on race gas but he raced it for like 5 years and it was still running strong. so if you are doing a bracket race motor low maintenance = a good thing lol

ran right around 10sec 1/4 miles in a 3100 lb roadrunner, not to shabby
 
moparlover said:
you might be able to just get a 440 forged crank somewhere cheaper (check local machine shops, they probably have one laying around lol) and just get your rods/pistons and save a few hundred dollars.

the raised port aluminum heads will give you a slight bonus over just a set of eddy heads, but they cost more $$$; plus with max wedge runners you severely limit choices on intakes, unless you want to get one modified.

best bang for buck is 440 crank, diamond pistons, eddy or stealth heads and performer rpm intake. especially if it's for street use.
Click to expand...

I can get a 440 crank pretty cheap.

The victor heads vs. perf RPm isn't a huge difference in money. The intake would be a victor intake which is king of the flow bench, so i'm ok with choices being limited.
 
I'm using the Muscle motors 4.25 kit going 496. Studding the mains, otherwise it's fine. No need for fill, caps, or girdle unless you're really going full boogie.
 
What is a good torque/HP level area to think about installing a girdle or ....
 
this is probably the best BB mopar girdle kit you can get.

i'm guessing over 500hp you would want a girdle. over 1000hp you would want one of these types from bcrproducts:

p1030751.jpg


these require the line bore like the other kits, but you also have to have the oil pickup extended slightly since the oil pan actually bolts to this girdle lol.
 
moper said:
I'm using the Muscle motors 4.25 kit going 496. Studding the mains, otherwise it's fine. No need for fill, caps, or girdle unless you're really going full boogie.
Click to expand...


Not to stray off topic... But what do you consider full boogie? Just curious.
 
Back to the original post. I think the 496 is the answer. Same money as the 438 with a ton more cubes and a lower rod ratio so it shouldn't be looking for as much RPM.

Solid roller cam in the [email protected] range and the victor max wedge heads it should rip.
 
The 383 has a small bore & the Victor heads have oversized valves. Not sure but that may be an issue. Also the Victor heads require offset rockers which are in the $800-$1000 range. Myself I'd look into the standard port Indy EZ. Any max wedge head will severely limit intake choices. Indy might be the only one at that point. That's another $400. Standard port Indy's that are cnc ported can support over 700hp. Better to spend the money on a nice roller setup in my opinion.
 
I'm betting if you hooked up with IQ52, he'd probably be able to help you make some choices that would yield a 600hp B wedge with some scrupulous parts selection...apart from your intentions, I guess your budget is the overall limiting factor.

EDIT: just noticed you mentioned likely use of a 496 kit...that shouldn't have much issue making over 600 with well prepped heads...pretty sure he's accomplished that same number with as many cubes using ported 906 heads.
 
roccodart440 said:
Back to the original post. I think the 496 is the answer. Same money as the 438 with a ton more cubes and a lower rod ratio so it shouldn't be looking for as much RPM.

Solid roller cam in the [email protected] range and the victor max wedge heads it should rip.
Click to expand...

The one I'm doing is a little milder but your reasons are the same as his. Bigger is better given similar costs, and for my part I like the B wedge rod combo too. We're using some Stage 1 Stealths he got a killer deal on so rockers are wide open. It's a solid flat tappet and is being done for torque and pump fuel.
 
txstang84 said:
I'm betting if you hooked up with IQ52, he'd probably be able to help you make some choices that would yield a 600hp B wedge with some scrupulous parts selection...apart from your intentions, I guess your budget is the overall limiting factor.

EDIT: just noticed you mentioned likely use of a 496 kit...that shouldn't have much issue making over 600 with well prepped heads...pretty sure he's accomplished that same number with as many cubes using ported 906 heads.
Click to expand...

554 Rear Wheel HP with a 451 stroker and 906 heads in 2008.
 
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