392 & 8hp70 65 Valiant

[V8-valiant]

Ok, after hurting another couple pistons and some sleepless nights of contemplation the turbo 408 is gone! It was a hard decision to give up on the turbo’d small block but I have decided that even when it was together and running (it was fun!) it wasn’t the vision I had for the car. So I decided to sell everything I had that pertained to a small block and 727 to help pile a stack of cash the size of the trump tower and start a Gen3 hemi build. I was tired of piecing together stuff to “make it work for now” and trying to get by with alternatives. I’ve been working on this for the last year, haven’t gotten as far as some but I’m not in a rush to cut corners and push to get it on the road. I want to do it right and make sure it’s solid to jump in and drive anywhere I’d like to go. I picked up a 2020 6.4 BGE and an 8hp70 8 speed from a guy I found on facebook, that was a pretty interesting experience LOL. It was supposed to be a low mile take out that I was going to put a cam in and run. After looking it over and disassembling the engine to a short block to get ready for the cam I decided that it was the appropriate time to just go through it and make it reliable with some quality parts. At this point the engine has made it through all the machine work and is ready for reassembly. I’ve got the transmission cleaned up and ready to mate to the fresh engine. With the cam and piston/rod upgrade I’ve got a 1320 challenger converter to keep it all working together nicely. While waiting for the engine to show up (6 months) I trimmed the front frame rail flanges, cleaned up extra holes and unnecessary stuff on the firewall and started to source what I needed to get a heater back in the car.

 

[70chall440]

Very nice, this thing should be a handful when on the road.

 

[V8-valiant]

Thank you! Fingers are crossed everything works and goes as planned!

 

[V8-valiant]

I plan on using the Holley Terminator Max X wiring and management system and to make things easier I’m going to go with a Holley 6.68 Digital Pro Dash. I didn’t want to alter the dash frame to use the Holley so I had an idea to have someone to design and 3D print an original looking bezel that will house the Holley dash. My first selection was an individual it Texas and it was an epic fail. Found another company to help with it and they knocked it out of the park! Exactly what I was looking for! Since I planned on using the digital dash I needed to fill the holes on the left side and thought it was a good time to fill the botched up hole where the radio would have been and then have the interior repainted.

 

[rmchrgr]

I plan on using the Holley Terminator Max X wiring and management system and to make things easier I’m going to go with a Holley 6.68 Digital Pro Dash. I didn’t want to alter the dash frame to use the Holley so I had an idea to have someone to design and 3D print an original looking bezel that will house the Holley dash. My first selection was an individual it Texas and it was an epic fail. Found another company to help with it and they knocked it out of the park! Exactly what I was looking for! Since I planned on using the digital dash I needed to fill the holes on the left side and thought it was a good time to fill the botched up hole where the radio would have been and then have the interior repainted.

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Dude, that dash bezel is AWESOME! Very well executed.

Just a quick note on your dash - Chrysler used suede paint on the tops to eliminate glare. Looks like it's in already but if it's just there loosely might want to consider something less reflective for the top.

I had a '65 Valiant myself several years ago, cool little cars. They are super light, does not take much to make them fly.

Keep up the good work.

 

[V8-valiant]

Dude, that dash bezel is AWESOME! Very well executed.

Just a quick note on your dash - Chrysler used suede paint on the tops to eliminate glare. Looks like it's in already but if it's just there loosely might want to consider something less reflective for the top.

I had a '65 Valiant myself several years ago, cool little cars. They are super light, does not take much to make them fly.

Keep up the good work.

I appreciate it! It’s not “correct” but I had the bodyshop do a matte finish on the top of the dash.

 

[LocuMob]

I have a 6.4 in a 4,400lb pig, and it's a blast. I can only imagine what it would be like in that little car!

 

[V8-valiant]

I have a 6.4 in a 4,400lb pig, and it's a blast. I can only imagine what it would be like in that little car!

I’m hoping so! Planning on driving it ALOT!

 

[DNasty777]

Very cool, I'll be following along on this one. What are you going to use to control the 8hp?

 

[V8-valiant]

Very cool, I'll be following along on this one. What are you going to use to control the 8hp?

Sound German sells a kit that controls the transmission. Since it’s completely electronic, to feel comfortable and not 100% reliant on the electronics to do their job I decided to swap the rear brakes from a budget jegs disc brake kit (without a parking brake) to a Wilwood kit with a parking brake. I’m going to have the same company that helped with the dash bezel design and print a console to look close to the original with a couple small changes. I will delete the ash tray and put a cup holder in its place, then shrink the gear indicator down the fit the digital gauge hopefully on the side of the shifter like it was originally but due to space might have to put it at the front center of the console. The 8 speed is a bit larger than the 727 so there will be some tunnel reconstruction happening.

 

[Commando66]

I was going to suggest Sound German Auto for your trans program. He's got a Sweptline that is super cool. Your Valiant is going to be killer...again.

 

[V8-valiant]

I was going to suggest Sound German Auto for your trans program. He's got a Sweptline that is super cool. Your Valiant is going to be killer...again.

Yes, he’s in your neck of the woods. I’ve seen some videos but it would be cool to check it out in person! Thank you!

 

[MOPARCODY]

this thing is going to be a blast!

 

[autoxcuda]

Ok, after hurting another couple pistons and some sleepless nights of contemplation the turbo 408 is gone! It was a hard decision to give up on the turbo’d small block but I have decided that even when it was together and running (it was fun!) it wasn’t the vision I had for the car. So I decided to sell everything I had that pertained to a small block and 727 to help pile a stack of cash the size of the trump tower and start a Gen3 hemi build. I was tired of piecing together stuff to “make it work for now” and trying to get by with alternatives. I’ve been working on this for the last year, haven’t gotten as far as some but I’m not in a rush to cut corners and push to get it on the road. I want to do it right and make sure it’s solid to jump in and drive anywhere I’d like to go. I picked up a 2020 6.4 BGE and an 8hp70 8 speed from a guy I found on facebook, that was a pretty interesting experience LOL. It was supposed to be a low mile take out that I was going to put a cam in and run. After looking it over and disassembling the engine to a short block to get ready for the cam I decided that it was the appropriate time to just go through it and make it reliable with some quality parts. At this point the engine has made it through all the machine work and is ready for reassembly. I’ve got the transmission cleaned up and ready to mate to the fresh engine. With the cam and piston/rod upgrade I’ve got a 1320 challenger converter to keep it all working together nicely. While waiting for the engine to show up (6 months) I trimmed the front frame rail flanges, cleaned up extra holes and unnecessary stuff on the firewall and started to source what I needed to get a heater back in the car.

What did you find in this advertised low mile take out that made you decide to rebuilt it?

Would like to know what to look for. Areas of concern. And what to expect from these "take out" motors.

Thanks for the post and great pictures

 

[V8-valiant]

What did you find in this advertised low mile take out that made you decide to rebuilt it?

Would like to know what to look for. Areas of concern. And what to expect from these "take out" motors.

Thanks for the post and great pictures

The best advise I can give you is if possible, put your eyes on it before you buy it. This was bought from a guy in I think Tennessee but a guy in Michigan sent it. There was some miscommunication and took about 5 months to get but I finally got it. I probably would have been ok just sticking it in and running it but I wanted to cam it while it was out, after buying all the gaskets bolts and other necessary items it was down to a short block. Then seeing how many guys loose a rod through the side of the block I figured at that point your starting over. I figured it was the best time to put some pistons and rods in it. Over all it was just dirty and not what you’d expect out of a 2020 I guess. I’ve been through so many different stages of engines and issues I’ve just decided to not half *** it and if I’m gonna do it I’m going to do it right. After the guy I bought it from agreed to send a little money back I was in it pretty decent.

 

[autoxcuda]

The best advise I can give you is if possible, put your eyes on it before you buy it. This was bought from a guy in I think Tennessee but a guy in Michigan sent it. There was some miscommunication and took about 5 months to get but I finally got it. I probably would have been ok just sticking it in and running it but I wanted to cam it while it was out, after buying all the gaskets bolts and other necessary items it was down to a short block. Then seeing how many guys loose a rod through the side of the block I figured at that point your starting over. I figured it was the best time to put some pistons and rods in it. Over all it was just dirty and not what you’d expect out of a 2020 I guess. I’ve been through so many different stages of engines and issues I’ve just decided to not half *** it and if I’m gonna do it I’m going to do it right. After the guy I bought it from agreed to send a little money back I was in it pretty decent.

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Thanks, that really helps people understand adjust their expectations and what to watch out for. And adjust what they are willing to pay accordingly.

These are just used motors like buying a 440 or 360. Don't get over impressed by a 3 year old motor. Also, is their a higher chance of owner abusing a motor that totals a 3 year old SRT vehicle?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I appreciate it! It’s not “correct” but I had the bodyshop do a matte finish on the top of the dash.

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Why is it "not correct"? They advertised a matte finish on the dash tops in these early cars for reduced glare. Mine still sports its matte dash top. .......although somewhat faded.

Great project, btw!

 

[DionR]

Thanks, that really helps people understand adjust their expectations and what to watch out for. And adjust what they are willing to pay accordingly.

These are just used motors like buying a 440 or 360. Don't get over impressed by a 3 year old motor. Also, is their a higher chance of owner abusing a motor that totals a 3 year old SRT vehicle?

In theory, a late model motor running EFI should see a fair bit less wear than a similar aged 440 or 360. Just look at all the Magnum motors people pull apart at 200K+ miles that still show crosshatching. Add roller lifters (assuming they don't fail early) and timing chain tensioners and I would expect a G3 to be in way better shape than a 440 pulled out of a Roadrunner in '73. Doesn't mean there aren't failures, only that they have some advantages to a carb'ed motor from the earlier '70's.

Not saying they shouldn't be check. Just that I'm not sure it is like buying a used 440 or 360.

 

[autoxcuda]

In theory, a late model motor running EFI should see a fair bit less wear than a similar aged 440 or 360. Just look at all the Magnum motors people pull apart at 200K+ miles that still show crosshatching. Add roller lifters (assuming they don't fail early) and timing chain tensioners and I would expect a G3 to be in way better shape than a 440 pulled out of a Roadrunner in '73. Doesn't mean there aren't failures, only that they have some advantages to a carb'ed motor from the earlier '70's.

Not saying they shouldn't be check. Just that I'm not sure it is like buying a used 440 or 360.

Good points.

I guess, it just seems you can't let your guard down and assume things are going to look nice. I see all these guys around town freeway racing, doing street takeovers, and stuff with these SRT's. There are some beat on mopar's out there.

 

[jw97neon]

Great build. I can’t wait to see more. Your dash idea is one I have wanted to do for so long. I haven’t found someone how can scan it and modify it to fit a digital setup. Who did you use if you don’t mind me askng?

 

[V8-valiant]

Thank you! Contact Tyler @ Reversion Raceworks. [email protected] he was great to work with, I’m sure he kept all the data and would be able to print one and ship it out. This was designed for the 6.86 pro dash.

 

[jw97neon]

Thank you! Contact Tyler @ Reversion Raceworks. [email protected] he was great to work with, I’m sure he kept all the data and would be able to print one and ship it out. This was designed for the 6.86 pro dash.

Thank you. I have 65 dart. So a different dash but I will keep this in mind.

 

[V8-valiant]

Thank you. I have 65 dart. So a different dash but I will keep this in mind.

He can probably get you idea to print I’m sure. I cut up an old dash and sent him the cluster and dash to ensure a perfect fit. Here’s what I sent over for him to get it done.

 

[V8-valiant]

Working on the fuel system, trying to figure out the best route from the pump through the trunk floor to run it up the frame rail. This tank I designed off of a Mustang style tank that is approximately 25gal should work well for long trips. I’m open to ideas on bulkhead location to pass through the floor pan.

 

[subcom]

My return line comes in approximately in this area and follows the inside of the frame rail.