392 & 8hp70 65 Valiant

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DionR said:
Make total sense. Only reason to really worry about the factory location is if you wanted to use a factory trans and mount. With the 8HP there is no reason not to put it where it is most happy.

Completely agree with wanting to keep the SRV function. Why pick a single plane or a dual plane if you can have both?



I've plan planning and collecting parts for a G3 swap into my '74 Duster for a couple of years now with the expected start of the swap being this winter. Then my son decided he didn't want his '73 Duster so now it is up on cribbing so I can install subframe connectors and torque boxes before I drop the front suspension and /6 out of it. Then I can cut the floor for the T56 and actually install the 5.7.

I currently have all the Holley swap parts, my V8 k-frame, (2) 5.7 cores, a 6.4 intake and cam, my T56 Magnum, several harnesses to cut down and (2) different PCM's that I could use. Really just need the time. Goal is to have the car on the ground and rolling before snow flies so I can get it to my Dad's shop where I can work on it in a heated shop.



My mother in law just bought a house in Rathdrum. Make sure to reach out if you make it up this way, love to see the car and I would buy you a beverage in appreciate for the opportunity. I love central Oregon too, maybe when I get my car done might end up down that way myself. My goal is to road trip the thing as much as possible.
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Same, if your ever in the area do reach out. Sounds good, seems like a hemi swap in a newer abody couple be a little easier. But definitely still has its complications I’m sure. It may be a dream but I’d love to get this thing done and drive it to Hot August nights in Reno one of these days.
 
Got the MR Performance master cylinder adapter in. It kicks the master over all the way! Should do the trick. Need to still pull the pedal assembly out and modify the rest of it to work. Then we can get the adapter off to powder coat. Might need to go to a banjo bolt style brake line, it’s close but don’t think it’s touching.

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abdywgn said:
is the brake pedal pushrod now "S" shaped?
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No I’ve gotta move the pedal over, I’ll be sure to send an update when I get it out and mocked up. It comes with some chromoly tube to move the pedal, and then probably take the jog out of the pedal arm and make it straight.

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I moved number seven coil to the firewall and ground slightly on the master cylinder to clear number 5 coil. I didn’t have to relocate the MC that way. You have flexible lines like mine so easy to unbolt, move over, and service 5 and 7 spark plugs. If that helps any.
 
I think I saw that in your build. I’d like to keep everything together the way it should be and would prefer to not have to unbolt the master cylinder to change plugs so this made sense. It’s a pretty straightforward install.
 
abdywgn said:
is the brake pedal pushrod now "S" shaped?
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So here’s a better view, you move the pedal from the center of the pedal box to the left side. I’ll have to install it and figure out the correct spacing for the pushrod and then alter the pedal to be where is comfortable.

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Got the brake pedal and master cylinder completed! Also got the heater tubes clocked, welded up and powder coated. Couple more things off the list!

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Wow that looks awesome. Great job. The more I see this post the more I am like I need to Gen 3 swap my driver 65 dart lol. I still have not finished my other dart project haha.
 
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