Never mind, that won’t work for you unless you go all the way through that upper shock mount panel. I removed mine when I did the 4 link.
392 & 8hp70 65 Valiant
- Thread starter V8-valiant
- Start date
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Oh interesting, you removed the panel on the bottom side of the floor pan? That’s a good idea, I was going to come straight off the pump through that area but I don’t think a standard bulkhead will be long enough. I’d love to do a rear 4 link but this project is getting crazy enough as it is. Lol I think I’m going to run along the back of the tank and up the right rail to a bulkhead kinda outlined here. This pump is Holley’s returnless system. It’s got a fuel pressure regulator in the housing of the pump module so there’s no need for a return line thankfully. Just one line out and a vent.
I think you’ll still hit that shock mount panel in that location. I’m pretty sure it stretches the width of the frame rails. What if you rotate your tank 180 and run your bulkhead through the trunk floor and then follow the inside of the driver’s side frame rail?
Here’s that piece of sheet metal that sits behind those upper shock mounts you see in the trunk.
Rear shock crossmember removal
Rear shock crossmember removal
340sFastback
Well-Known Member
I went with my son when he bought a used K24 engine for his old Honda he wanted to swap in. Seller had 25 or so of those engines on hand in a warehouse. Seller hooked up starter pulled plugs and did a compression test while we watched and before we paid. Every cylinder showed excellent compression and engine ran like new once installed. And since we were there in person we got to pick the cleanest of the bunch they had on hand. The dirtiest of the engine lot was on a pallet to be shipped to someone out of state. While the cleaner ones that appeared to be lower mileage got sold to the local ppl who got to inspect and did cash and carry.
When I was in market for a late model engine for another car a local yard would provide the VIN stamped into the engine. I would run a CarFax and verify yep car was wrecked and yep it was low mile. Sometimes if dealer maintained car records of oil changes. So consider that too. Was not able to do that on the K24 Honda engine because it was imported from Japan no CarFax.
With the exception of wiring the fuel pump and sending unit the fuel system is done. Well up to the firewall that is. I’ll place the engine and finish up that connection once it comes back from the builder. I welded in a front and rear tank support from one frame rail to the other to help support the tank. Another task checked off the list!
loganscuda
This/These
wow, that is slick.
ValiantRacing
Well-Known Member
I guess the one interesting part is going to be the exhaust, i have built a couple of 65's not a lot of room down there.
You’re right, and I want to run full exhaust so I’ll probably do a rear four link to take care of a few issues at hand.
You're doing some really nice looking work! I wish I was half as good. I like the fuel cell idea. Kinda "Mustangish" how the top of the tank will be the trunk floor. Really clean job.
Thank you, having had this car since 2005 I’ve done the “slapped together for now, to get it going” many times than I care to mention. I made the decision that it doesn’t matter how long it will take I don’t want to cut any corners and do any of the same familiar “I’ll just do this for now till I can do it right” bad decisions. Yes the tank started as a mustang tank in its place, I didn’t like how it was going and fitting so I adjusted it a little for a little more fuel capacity and wanted the top of the tank to be as flush and sleek in the trunk as possible. I’m pretty happy with how it’s turned out.
Got the fuel pump and sending unit all wired up and routed. The main power wire to the bulkhead just need to fasten it down and the trunk portion should be done with a little bit of clean up.
The RMS 4 link showed up and put that in and tack welded into place. I decided to do this for a couple reasons. As mentioned I want to run full exhaust on this car and center the wheel in the wheel well. As well as all the other benefits and adjustability the kit offers.
Also got the steering all wrapped up, not sure I’m in love with the steering wheel. Anyone have any experience with the Eddie Motorsports Steering Wheels?
The RMS 4 link showed up and put that in and tack welded into place. I decided to do this for a couple reasons. As mentioned I want to run full exhaust on this car and center the wheel in the wheel well. As well as all the other benefits and adjustability the kit offers.
Also got the steering all wrapped up, not sure I’m in love with the steering wheel. Anyone have any experience with the Eddie Motorsports Steering Wheels?
Wow it’s been a while. Got the engine back from the builder, set it in place to start tackling some of the details. Boy this is tight! I’ve got the fuel system complete, the coil covers trimmed and fit, got the heater tubes mostly figure out, working on radiator hoses and then a little steering. Had to order the MR Performance master cylinder adapter I’ll get some photos once it comes in.
loganscuda
This/These
Looks like it was meant to be in there. Great job
DionR
Well-Known Member
Very cool build all the way around.
Looks like you moved the motor forward some, correct? SRV module looks to have plenty of room and I would have guessed it would crashed hard with the firewall.
Going to be a killer ride, and easy to drive anywhere.
Looks like you moved the motor forward some, correct? SRV module looks to have plenty of room and I would have guessed it would crashed hard with the firewall.
Going to be a killer ride, and easy to drive anywhere.
Thank you!
I appreciate that, I don’t have any reference as to where the “correct location” should be. I placed it where it’s happy. I wanted to utilize the SRV so a little further forward is what was needed. Are you building a gen3 swapped a body too? I’ve seen your pretty active on a few builds. I’ve got a buddy in Rathdrum I’m sure we will find our way there sometime with the car.
What's this "SRV" Module??
Whose K frame are you using??
DieWilde13
Well-Known Member
Looks very nice! Exited how it works out!
DionR
Well-Known Member
Make total sense. Only reason to really worry about the factory location is if you wanted to use a factory trans and mount. With the 8HP there is no reason not to put it where it is most happy.
Completely agree with wanting to keep the SRV function. Why pick a single plane or a dual plane if you can have both?
I've plan planning and collecting parts for a G3 swap into my '74 Duster for a couple of years now with the expected start of the swap being this winter. Then my son decided he didn't want his '73 Duster so now it is up on cribbing so I can install subframe connectors and torque boxes before I drop the front suspension and /6 out of it. Then I can cut the floor for the T56 and actually install the 5.7.
I currently have all the Holley swap parts, my V8 k-frame, (2) 5.7 cores, a 6.4 intake and cam, my T56 Magnum, several harnesses to cut down and (2) different PCM's that I could use. Really just need the time. Goal is to have the car on the ground and rolling before snow flies so I can get it to my Dad's shop where I can work on it in a heated shop.
My mother in law just bought a house in Rathdrum. Make sure to reach out if you make it up this way, love to see the car and I would buy you a beverage in appreciate for the opportunity. I love central Oregon too, maybe when I get my car done might end up down that way myself. My goal is to road trip the thing as much as possible.
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DionR
Well-Known Member
Short Runner Valve. The 6.4 intake has a short runner mode and a long runner mode and the module that flips it is on the back of the intake and crashes with the firewall if the motor is in the stock location. Holley mounts move the motor forward 1.75" to avoid that issue along with a couple of others, but the TTI and Shumacher mounts require you to either run a different intake, cut your firewall or lock the 6.4 into one mode, which I think is the long runner mode.
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