392 in a 70 Duster

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I'm curious: what's the benefit of the conversion adapter over having a custom driveshaft made? We've got a shop about an hour away that does custom driveshafts. They made a couple for my truck and did a good job. I was planning to just have them make me one when the time comes.
I'm curious: what's the benefit of the conversion adapter over having a custom driveshaft made? We've got a shop about an hour away that does custom driveshafts. They made a couple for my truck and did a good job. I was planning to just have them make me one when the time comes.
To be honest with you..... I just noticed that a lot of other people were using the Driveshaft shop on thier swaps so I just went with it. I knew that it would be a strong lightweight shaft and it was easy. HOWEVER.... it wasn't cheap! The local driveshaft shop can make you a shaft using a 4wd type slip yoke that would work as well but you'll still have to adapt it to the trans yoke.
 
Did you drop the body down over the engine and suspension? Someone told me the hemi was too big to do that, and I had been planning on doing it that way.
 
I dont think the 6.4 will let you drop the body down over it without firewall work. The 6.1 has more clearance in the back. It's a little tricky with the alternator by the frame rail but you can just lower the car over the engine once you clearance your firewall.
You might take your intake off and lower the car over everything, then you will see where you need to do work.
 
Did you drop the body down over the engine and suspension? Someone told me the hemi was too big to do that, and I had been planning on doing it that way.

Yes, I lowered the car over the engine. Besides the minor bit of frame rail trimming to clear the alternator (see posts 54 and 59), it was pretty straightforward. I used the shock towers on the AlterKtion to make sure I was lined up correctly side to side.
 
Gotcha. They guy I was talking to had a 6.4 in a Demon. I have a 5.7 on an alkterktion, so after clearancing for the alternator I should be set. Thanks!
 
After 8 yrs just getting to the point of paint and turning it over 2015 392 tr6060 from clevCleve power & performance RMS front and rear suspension and lots of $$$ any questions I can help it's been quite a project

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I wound up moving the entire firewall back 3 inches to clear everything in my 70 Dart, but I did a lot more than I needed to
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Nice job on the fire wall but looks like a lot more than need I just finessed the areas that need it
 
You are correct, I got carried away, relocated the wiper motor and master cylinder, went for the "smooth" look.
 
You are correct, I got carried away, relocated the wiper motor and master cylinder, went for the "smooth" look.
Nothing wrong with getting carried away with with and old Mopar I also got carried away just in different areas lol

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Magnumforce still exists(somehow). The product that QA1 purchased was from Cap Auto.(If I remember right). And the thing to note is that QA1 didn't purchase the product and immediately rush it to production with their name slapped on it. Which suggests that they have put some thought into what they were doing. I'd love to see some reviews of people who've used the QA1 version.

I have a QA1 K frame and it a real nice piece. CAP had a bad reputation for quality of workmanship. The QA1 looks to be a quality piece. It fits very well and looks like a real nice piece.
 
Did you have to modify the firewall to accommodate your 6.4? We’re you able to set the car down over the 6.4?

More pics if you have them. About to start my Hemi swap and the more pic’s the better!
Yes firewall needs to be massaged a bit this is what I did be sure to check wiper arms underdash as they can hit if you make the pocket to deep try to take off as much as you can just below the wiper motor bottom bolt this is where it's closest

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Also sry but yes you can lower car over the motor very easy that way
My (74) fire wall is very, slightly different. How tight was it? I wonder if going with the 6.4 if you can keep from modifying or if there is just simply no way around it. I have a 5.7 but have strongly considering selling it and going up to a 6.4. But, if there are a bunch of heavy mods that have to go into it, I may just stay with a heavily modified 5.7 instead. The allure of the 392 is almost too much for me to resist, but I don’t know if I’m interested in cutting on the fire wall. But, then again, I highly doubt anyone would ever know. Not like you can see it....

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My (74) fire wall is very, slightly different. How tight was it? I wonder if going with the 6.4 if you can keep from modifying or if there is just simply no way around it. I have a 5.7 but have strongly considering selling it and going up to a 6.4. But, if there are a bunch of heavy mods that have to go into it, I may just stay with a heavily modified 5.7 instead. The allure of the 392 is almost too much for me to resist, but I don’t know if I’m interested in cutting on the fire wall. But, then again, I highly doubt anyone would ever know. Not like you can see it....

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"If" , I were going to the trouble of installing a new hemi in anything , it would dam sure be the biggest one I could get !
Why go to all that trouble for a wheezer ?!
 
"If" , I were going to the trouble of installing a new hemi in anything , it would dam sure be the biggest one I could get !
Why go to all that trouble for a wheezer ?!
And that mentality is exactly what is driving my budget into a downward trajectory.

I to subscribe to the theory of doing it once. And I have reservations that I will go to the trouble of putting the 5.7 in the car, only to have regrets and wish that I had put a 392 instead.

So I have to ask, since I have a similar a body, how does the 6.4 run in that car?
 
What about using an aftermarket intake manifold like the Prefix/Arrow single-plane?

I picked up a complete 2014 5.7 out of a truck with a bad cam lobe and lifter and only 137k miles for $600... for the cost of stepping up to a 6.4 I could buy conversion headers, aftermarket intake manifold and possibly a QA1 k-member. I plan to use a factory replacement 6.4 SRT manual-trans camshaft, with all that should be 450-500 HP. Then again if I found a ready-to-run 6.4 I wouldn't need to buy a new cam and lifters... oh well this probably isn't happening for another 3 years anyway lol.
 
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