3g Hemi Rebuild Guide?

-
5.7 hemi said:
So no one knows how far the balancer goes onto the crank???????????
Click to expand...

With an install tool and an old bolt, I gun it it until it just gets tight. Than with a new crank bolt and 1/2" drive torque wrench, torque it to spec. If you have any doubt, run a straight edge from the crank to some accessory pullies. I use the Blue Point lazer tool for alignment. Bought one from NAPA. Works great, but I'm sure O'Rielly's or NAPA will rent you one out.
 
5.7 hemi said:
So no one knows how far the balancer goes onto the crank???????????
Click to expand...

According to SA's 'New Hemi Builders Guide' They first tighten it up with an impact to get it alighned with the belt installed. Then the balancer is torqued to 45 ft lbs. This appears to be bad info! See Below!
Probably doesn't help much. That book is not really a builders guide. It list specs as far as dimensions go and compare contrast between 5.7 & 6.1. Several contradictions and errors. But has no torque specs or anything that would help you actually build one. Nice big section on aftermarket parts, thier installation and hp gains on a chassis dyno. Most all info in book is listed right in our own New Hemi Swaps section.
 
Thanks fellas, I have done what has been suggested, so all is well and thats 1 less item on the list to double check before eng/trans goes in Sat. Thanks again.
 
Map63Vette said:
Yeah, I would consider head studs if I wasn't thinking about removing the heads while in the car at some point. I'm not sure just how much room I would have to pull up on the heads before they might run into something. Can someone give me an eyeball idea of what it might be like? I know the master cylinder is pretty much right in the way and the steering column is close, but I think more out of the way once clearanced. I could always unbolt either and try to move them out of the way, but not having too would be nice.
Click to expand...

Remove the studs before you pull the heads. They back out just as far as the bolts do. What I'm saying is, don't try and pull the heads with the studs in place.
 
5.7 hemi said:
So no one knows how far the balancer goes onto the crank???????????
Click to expand...
Probably not the answer you are looking for, but here's what it says in the service manual.
 

Attachments

  • damper install.JPG
    81 KB · Views: 856
I just ordered all the stuff for a cam swap before I drop my 5.7 in. (cam, springs, pushrods, cam/crank bolt) I saw you guys have or have access to a service manual. SO... if you can help me out, jump in...

What is the correct torque for the cam bolt, rocker shafts, (I saw the crank bolt spec), and anything else that needs torqued...

Also I have a 05 car motor with the metal heater hoses that are pressed into the Water pump then run under the intake to behind the motor. Do they just pull straight out? will they reseal??

Thanks in advance my 3G friends...

joe
 
Camshaft Sprocket—Bolt 122 N*m or 90 ft*lbs
Camshaft Tensioner Plate—Bolts 28 N*m or 250 in*lbs
Timing Chain Case Cover—Bolts 28 N*m or 250 in*lbs
Lifting Stud 55 N*m or 40 ft*lbs
Cylinder Head Cover—Bolts 8 N*m or 70 in*lbs
Rockers Shaft—Bolts 22 N*m or 195 in*lbs
 

Attachments

  • tq order.JPG
    27.6 KB · Views: 771
  • valve cover tq.JPG
    42.8 KB · Views: 760
Its just a stud at the top of the timing cover to use when lifting the engine. There is supposed to be a special tool to attach for lifting, but I just screw the stud through a chain link and connect another chain to a couple holes on the back of the heads.
 
Bolt question, the bolts for the flex plate, are they TTY and do I need to get new ones? I just received my new flexplate and was hoping to put it on this weekend. Thanks...
 
I would replace them. But that is just me. I would hate to go in ad fix it if something happened.
 
The bolts are not TTY.
Service manual says
1. Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
2. For automatic transmissions: Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
 

Attachments

  • flexplate torque.JPG
    37.8 KB · Views: 791
boden said:
The bolts are not TTY.
Service manual says
1. Position the flexplate or flywheel onto the crankshaft and install the bolts hand tight.
2. For automatic transmissions: Tighten the flexplate retaining bolts to 95 N·m (70 ft. lbs.).
Click to expand...


Boden, thanks very much......:thumleft:
 
YOU ROCK!

Seriously, that is sweet, I just may print the 05 car one.

Thanks,

JOE
 
So any updates on this so far? Some one torn down one with pictures to give us something to study hard for the test when we finally buy our own engines, aside from the lovely and incredibly thorough service manual?
 
Map63Vette said:
So any updates on this so far? Some one torn down one with pictures to give us something to study hard for the test when we finally buy our own engines, aside from the lovely and incredibly thorough service manual?
Click to expand...


here are some pics of my cam install on my 3rd gen HEMI charger.
P2210303.jpg

P2210311.jpg

P2200294.jpg

P2200296.jpg

P2200299.jpg

P2210316.jpg

P2210304.jpg



im sure i can find more pics on a few of the New mopar forums im on
 
I was curious if the factory windage tray can be used with the Milodon A/B/E Pan and dip stick, or if you need to order a new Milodon Windage tray... Anybody??
 
Why pull the heads to change the cam?
 
joeboy said:
I was curious if the factory windage tray can be used with the Milodon A/B/E Pan and dip stick, or if you need to order a new Milodon Windage tray... Anybody??
Click to expand...
the dip stick doesnt matter. it uses the stocker. (at least my ram one fits) the windage tray might interfear with the pick up tube though. i dont have one yet, and will find out later. (when to motor comes out for cleanup in about a year)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top