4 speed od or 5 speed

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75slant6 said:
Doesn't even need to be a V8 dakota. The V6s have the same bellhousing bolt pattern. I got all my stuff out of a 90 or 92 v6 dakota and it bolts right up to a SBM I have the flywheel, mini starter and bell bolted to my 318 to get it running but needed to buy a 5.9 flywheel to swap in my 5.9 magnum since V6s are balanced same as 318/5.2s
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Just be aware that all of the stuff you have is for a 143T flywheel which puts the starter out farther than typical and can cause you problems with your exhaust/headers. Not sure TTI's will clear, I know Buschi had to customize his non-TTI headers to make it work.

I know of one individual that cut the starter pocket out of his bellhousing and welded it back in at the correct location for a 130T flywheel. That is what I am planning to do if I get that far.
 
My cheap headers (don't know what they are, they were on the car when I got it) cleared everything. It's sort of a pain bolting the starter in and hooking up the cables but once it's in everything clears.
 
DionR said:
I've always thought a 3.09 gear 4 speed with something like a 2.94 axle ratio would make for a good setup. Pretty sure that works out to almost exactly what Passion's Hemi Overdrive would be like with a 3.55. But I assume you are referring to a 2.66 gear 4 speed, correct?



What about a TR-3550? Better strength and it bolts to the same QT bell as a T5.



Can't argue. If you are going to do it and do it right, T56 wins.

One thought I would add, the R154 hasn't been the best for Buschi on the drag strip. Worked fine on a road course, but didn't shift well enough to do well on the strip. At least that is what I remember him saying.
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2.94s AND 3.09 box is what I run in the Dart with a stroker sb. It works really well for what it is.
 
I've also done the ax15 swap in my 72 dart and I have to its a pretty good transmission. Installed it 4 years ago and still holds up fine after beating the hell out of it, taking it to a few race events. It's bolted up to a late 80s 318 engibe. Tunnel mods are required, as well as trany mount. Shifter location is not that bad and that OD really helps out on gas mileage. Got mine out of a 94 Dakota that was bolted up to a v6. Same engine less 2 cylinders as stated as well as use the stock gear reduction starter which starts up the engine faster. Also used the flywheel which is 143 tooth from the v6 without any vibration problems, 318s are internally balanced so so as that v6 but if your gonna use it behind a 360, gotta get a 360 flywheel for it or have that v6 flywheel balanced to a 360. You can get them from summit. If the engine is an automatic there's a clutch pilot bearing, can't remember the part number, that will adapt to make it work with the Tranny. To the original post, again that's not an ax15 but nv2500 which is a weak transmission so I would either sell it or trade it for something else plus that shifter location, your probably are gonna row boat that if you do install it lol. The ax15 from what I researched came in Dakotas from 94 to 2000, and also in jeeps which i can't remember what years they came in them but I have one installed in my 1960 rambler powered by a dodge 360. Was gonna go amc in that car but figure what the he'll go Mopar. There's also another one nv3500 which came in the Rams and I think also in the Dakotas behind a v8 but it's alittle stronger but doesn't have a removable bel housing.
 
i used the R154 behind the 340 and yes i had to hammer the cheap headers a lot.

Now i still have the same tranny behind a 6.1 Hemi. no modifications on the tranny. it gives some good quartermile times and is also great on the Autobahn. Since approx 7 years now. :)
 
Thanks. I am looking at going AX-15 for my 70 Dart, which I might just use a .060" over 318 with custom forged Ross flattops, (light) for 327 or 328 CID, I have a fresh 2.93 sure grip.
I know the 1st gear is a bit steep, but I am not using a super low duration cam, I am thinking a mechanical 240 duration (about like a 234 duration hydraulic) .540 lift. 112 lobe seperation. That should have a broad powerband, about 2800-6800, maybe 7200 if needed.

Between that, the intake I am thinking, Offenhauser Port-O-Sonic single plain, and my aluminum flywheel, should kill a bit of low low end, to where dropping the clutch doesn't just result in massive wheelspin.

After reading this, I don't know what I will do about the bigger ring gear needed for the flywheel, but I'll figure something out.

I do not know how I will get the shifter to come over to the left and fit through the tunnel, as well as what modifications are needed to the cross member?

I'm thinking I could make the shifter go welded on to something that goes 90 degrees and over to the left for about 4 inches then back to 90 degrees straight up, so the shifter sits in its original position?

Shifter is a medium length B-body pistol grip, that was found in a Jeep. Went to get a wheel or something from a salvage yard, and the salvage yard worker was driving a truck through the yard. As he was turning, the pistol grip caught my attention. Somebody had welded it onto the Jeep shifter.

This car will be built for street, autocross, and an occasional 1/4 mile.
 
It's all Dodge said:
After reading this, I don't know what I will do about the bigger ring gear needed for the flywheel, but I'll figure something out.
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Your wording makes it seem you might be confused

You cannot just "change the ring gear" on a flywheel.

The flywheel size is determined by the bellhousing, and the flywheel then dictates what ring gear will be on that flywheel. To put this another way, the bell is what determines the starter mount, and the flywheel and ring gear size must then follow that situation

I'm not well versed on the older 273 bell (which used a tiny clutch) but in the 318 / 340 cars, say, 68-9 and later, generally, the passenger cars used the small bell and flywheel, and vans and pickups used the larger one. I don't know how successful anyone is by using a pickup bell in a car. I would think not, meaning in the late 60's --80's etc

I'm not at all familiar with the bell / flywheel setup on the Dakotas
 
Actually, on the LBE 10 pound aluminum flywheel, I do believe the ring gear can be swapped out. It's custom made.

As for the stock flywheel, you are right about the ring gear.

It's either that, or buy a heavy *** flywheel, or change where the pocket for the starter is, ( aluminum fabricating) or, get a machinist to work a miracle and somehow put the bellhousing pattern on to a Lakewood steel bellhousing, I bet you're rolling and laughing right now, but I bet it can be done.

That's why I said I have to figure it out. I'm not too crazy about just using standard heavy *** flywheel.

The old 273 and some of the 318s use a nine and a half inch clutch. Those flywheels weigh 18 pounds or less.

I have two of those cast iron bell housings, I once thought about using one on a figure 8 car that I have.
 
don '''no.........they don't seem to have a website..........
 
after more homework I found that this gearbox has a 379 1st gear.. Yikes, that is a potato gear. I will keep an eye out for an 833 that I can afford. If anyone needs a Dakota trans for a Dakota I have one for sale..lol
 
The ax-15 has a 3.83 first gear. I was worried about first being useless but if you run a 3.08 or higher (2.76,2.94,etc) gear in the rear end the low first gear will then be the same as a 904 with 3.91-4.10s plus you get great cruising rpms on the highway!
 
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