4 terminal ballast resistor with condensor, is this correct?

[67cuda360]

I'm trying to figure out if my ignition system is hooked up properly.
- Engine 360 (1974)
- 727 torqueflite (67 barracuda)
- orange ignition box module (4 pin)
- accel performance coil (chrome)
- electronic ignition distributor (with vacuum can)

the thing that confuses me is that it has a 4 terminal ballast resistor hooked up with a condenser screwed to it, shouldn't this be a 2 terminal ballast resistor or is there no difference between the two?

also how much voltage should I see at the coil when the engine is running?

 

[slantsixdan]

If 4-pin module, then 2-pin ballast resistor. If 5-pin module, then 4-pin ballast resistor. But the "other half" of the 4-pin ballast will happily sit there doing nothing if you install a 4-pin module, so that's no big worry.

What's the condenser's terminal connected to?

Coil voltage depends on line voltage and engine RPM, but you're looking for roughly 7 volts.

 

[67Dart273]

An older so called 5 terminal box MUST use a 4 terminal resistor

A so called 4 terminal box CAN use either 2 or 4 pin resistor

You can NOT identify a 4 terminal box by looking --it may still have the disconnected 5th pin

You MUST hook up the 4 terminal resistor correctly, as the "two halves" are different.

If you have a radio suppression cap, the only place it belongs is with the case/ bracket grounded to the coil bracket, and the wire hooked to coil positive.

Wiring for a 4 pin resistor, 5 pin box. NOTICE the notch in the resistor. That notch identifies how the resistor must be wired:

Wireing for a 4 terminal box. You can take an ohmeter and probe around from the 5th pin to other pins and ground to determine if / if not the pin is hooked to anything. If not hooked to anything, it's a "4 pin box."

If you use a 4 pin resistor, you can use EITHER box

 

[67cuda360]

If 4-pin module, then 2-pin ballast resistor. If 5-pin module, then 4-pin ballast resistor. But the "other half" of the 4-pin ballast will happily sit there doing nothing if you install a 4-pin module, so that's no big worry.

What's the condenser's terminal connected to?

Coil voltage depends on line voltage and engine RPM, but you're looking for roughly 7 volts.

the condenser is wired into the ballast resistor (same terminal as the green wire with red tracer) the top terminal post (on same side of the ballast resistor) has the brown wire connected to it.

(The green wire with red tracer is the wire that now doesn't get used with the 4 pin ignition box correct?).

On the other side of the ballast resistor it has a blue wire connected to the bottom terminal and then a wire connecting the top and bottom terminal. below are some pictures of the hook-up.

The resistor was brittle at the back so i'm pretty sure the picture indicates that I need a replacement LOL

 

[67cuda360]

thanks for the wiring diagram 67Dart273 that's very helpful.

 

[67Dart273]

That condenser looks pretty "iffy" to me. I'd cut it out of there. You need to figure out where the wires connect. If they "end up" at coil + terminal, it's OK, otherwise, I'd remount one --you can buy em at a decent parts store-- at the coil.

 

[67cuda360]

The condenser is connected (tied in) to the green wire that comes from the terminal plug which is also connected to the green wire with red tracer (this wire goes to the ignition module and this wire is not hooked to anything with the 4 pin ignition module). the top of the plug has the brown wire that goes to the + side of the coil.

Does that condenser serve any purpose or can I just remove it?

Also what is your thought on the picture of the module, pretty sure i'll need a replacement correct?

 

[slantsixdan]

The condenser is connected (tied in) to the green wire that comes from the terminal plug which is also connected to the green wire with red tracer (this wire goes to the ignition module and this wire is not hooked to anything with the 4 pin ignition module).

That'll've been a radio noise suppression capacitor. You can delete it.

Also what is your thought on the picture of the module, pretty sure i'll need a replacement correct?

I don't see a pic of your module, but your ballast resistor does look pretty beat up. Because you have a 4-pin module now, you can use a single (2-pin) ballast resistor.

 

[67cuda360]

Thanks, that makes sense. I'm going through the wiring now (unwrapped alot of taped wires) and it seems the PO did some strange fixes (if you can call it that) anyway I'll have to make some repairs here and there.

I ended up at the bulkhead connectors and some of the wires are basically hanging on by a thread. Is there anyway to take these male connections out of the bulkhead plugs and re-attach the individual wires properly to its male connector?

If not, do they sell just the bulkhead plugs somewhere or would I have to buy a full wiring kit?

 

[slantsixdan]

I'm going through the wiring now (unwrapped alot of taped wires) and it seems the PO did some strange fixes (if you can call it that) anyway I'll have to make some repairs here and there.

Had the same IPO problems (idjit previous owner) on my '73. Lengths of solid-core household wire crudely twisted in as "repairs" to the main charging line, and the end of one such "repair" crammed into the bulkhead connector and "secured" there with…a drywall screw. :shock:

I ended up at the bulkhead connectors and some of the wires are basically hanging on by a thread. Is there anyway to take these male connections out of the bulkhead plugs and re-attach the individual wires properly to its male connector?

New terminals. Packard 56/59 series. See Terminal Supply Co catalogue. Make sure to use an appropriate crimping tool!

If not, do they sell just the bulkhead plugs somewhere or would I have to buy a full wiring kit?

Are you talking about the three rectangular housings that each have 8 or 10 male terminals and plug onto the bulkhead disconnect? I know they're made, don't know if you can buy 'em individually. They're included on the very good quality, reasonably priced new engine wiring harnesses available from Evans Wiring.

The bulkhead connector housing itself is presently available only as unreasonably costly new old stock. I'm looking at repopping them, but not even close to having an ETA.

 

[67cuda360]

Thanks slantsixdan,
what type of crimping tool would do the trick, something I could get at Canadian tire?

And yes, i was talking about the three rectangular housings (8-10 terminals) that plug onto the bulkhead disconnect. I'll look into the evans wiring kit. But if I wanted to just change the one male terminal in one of the housing plugs, how do i remove the existing male plug that is in there, does it just pull out and the new one push in?

 

[slantsixdan]

Each terminal has a lock tab protruding from the terminal body, that holds it into the plastic housing. This tab has to be pressed flat with a terminal extractor pick or darning needle, then you can pull the wire with terminal out of the housing. I don't know that Crappy Tire will sell you a crimper (A) that will work on the Packard terminals correctly and (B) that will be worth messing with even if it supposedly will; all CT's tools are Chinese garbage.