I think ….. he assembled the parts himself. I don’t think this is off the shelf.So where did u get this kit? Do u have a link? Thanks. Kim
I think ….. he assembled the parts himself. I don’t think this is off the shelf.So where did u get this kit? Do u have a link? Thanks. Kim
Yep. Crank work on a stock 383 steel crank, long big block Chevy rods, and (apparently) some off the shelf 440 stroker pistons set up for bbc pins. The trick is finding workable pistons, and then drilling the block to fit.I think ….. he assembled the parts himself. I don’t think this is off the shelf.
I like the Idea of a 426/400 perfect size for 500 hp, should make peak in high 5000's rpm, a good spot for a street strip type of build.With the core shift issues prevalent in the 400s, I really wanted to limit it to .03-ish. I did have the block sonic checked as I was curious how much I could go. Anymore than .04 over and I would’ve needed to sleeve cylinder #4 for a 500hp + build.
Not necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punchI won’t ask: why not just build a 440. But a low deck will fit not necessarily better but easier. Kim
DV did a few small block chev rod lengths shootout each made little more hp than the last I think it was 7-10 hp from shortest to longest if I remember right. I like the idea of ideal bore rod and stroke ratios but wouldn't say necessarily needed for most there's a lot of low hanging fruit to go for 1st to make easier power.Engine masters did a rod ratio test that I thought was pretty good. In the end, I guess it’s up to the individual building the engine in their direction and choices. The power difference wasn’t enough to sway me in ether direction but I myself would choose the longer rod and shorter piston. It’s a combo I like a little better.
For me? There is a tipping point for how short the piston gets if longevity is a concern. Drag or purpose built engines I won’t worry about.
Looking forward to the video series on this.
Can u post what rods and pistons used? I can have a crank machined to any undersize and offset stroke I need. Thanks. KimNot necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punch
You’ll get the 340 feel for sure. It’ll be very similar since it’s a big bore short stroke deal. Just 86 inches greater.Not necessarily after fit. The lighter weight is a plus but, I’m mainly after engine characteristics. I LOVE the free spinning nature of the 340. I’m hoping to achieve the same characteristics with extra cubes for a bigger punch
Long rod more HP?DV did a few small block chev rod lengths shootout each made little more hp than the last I think it was 7-10 hp from shortest to longest if I remember right. I like the idea of ideal bore rod and stroke ratios but wouldn't say necessarily needed for most there's a lot of low hanging fruit to go for 1st to make easier power.
It’s unfortunate when the old timers is pass on. I hope they are in the great race track in the sky. Having fun! The problem is a lot of the little things the experimented on, they probably didn’t even write it down. A lot of the old timers, they did things and kept things in their head.Years ago 20 to 30 years ago, there were some racers out in the west coast area who did a ton of experimentation with off set grinding B and RB cranks for big cubic inch engines. I used to know some of their names, but I'll bet most of them have gone to the great race track in the sky. The reason I say they maybe gone is, I was in my 30s to 40s at the time and they were at least 10 to 20 years old than I at the time. I'm now 71 and can't recall seeing or hearing from, or about them for years now.
Yes SirLong rod more HP?
I’m using Icon pistons with a 1.48 compression height and Scat 6.70” rods. Turned the rod journals down to 2.2”Can u post what rods and pistons used? I can have a crank machined to any undersize and offset stroke I need. Thanks. Kim
I like your plan. Lighter crank (slightly) lighter rods (than 440s) lighter forged pistons ( compared to cast stockers, WAY lighter) lighter pins. Should rev like mad, better than a 383, and probably a 340.I’m using Icon pistons with a 1.48 compression height and Scat 6.70” rods. Turned the rod journals down to 2.2”
Very do-able with off the shelf parts. ICON IC825 +.033 , BBC con rod @ 6.700. about .027 below the deck, ample under piston pin to counter weight clearance. Only thing to be questioned would be the con rod big end width size discrepancy. 1.012 BBM, .992 BBC yielding a .040 extra side width.@Max1196 Whats your opinion on this buikd? Kim
What rpm do you plan on running at and with what head and valve combo?I kind of want to do the 3.55 stroke but I'd wanna do a big bore 4.500, As soon as my boss teaches me how to grind
It's Just a dream build....but that would be a b-1 head two dominator tunnel ram deal that loves 8500-9000.What rpm do you plan on running at and with what head and valve combo?
Can’t seem to find anything on the web about one of these. Any of you build one? Taking this opportunity to test out a long rod ratio. From my assessment, it seems like a reliable combo that would love to rev. What do you think? Doing this as a budget build for a YouTube challenge.
-offset ground 383 crank
-6.7” rods
-440 stroker piston
The STROKER Combo Never Built - Plan Revealed #piggybankhorsepower
The bobweight is very low--like small block low. J.RobYes I've heard of it. In fact I have one i'm building for my bodyshop buddy's '72 RoadRunner. I turned a 383 forging to 3.545" stroke x 4.375" bore= 426.33 ci. I'm using a 6.7" Rod with a Mahle piston with a 1.32" CHT. < Correction it is a 1.480" CHT-I've got a lot of builds going on--LOL.I've got a nice solid lifter Hughes grind going in it. The plan is to build HP up to and beyond 7000 rpm for some roadracing style fun. The bottom end photos show how the short stroke and long rod doesn't pull the piston skirt out of the bore at BDC. Judging how easy this thing is to turn over I think this should make some power AND last a long time. J.Rob
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Nice gear drive set up.The bobweight is very low--like small block low. J.Rob
That looks great. Keep us posted on the build. (separate build thread?)Yes I've heard of it. In fact I have one i'm building for my bodyshop buddy's '72 RoadRunner. I turned a 383 forging to 3.545" stroke x 4.375" bore= 426.33 ci. I'm using a 6.7" Rod with a Mahle piston with a 1.32" CHT. < Correction it is a 1.480" CHT-I've got a lot of builds going on--LOL.I've got a nice solid lifter Hughes grind going in it. The plan is to build HP up to and beyond 7000 rpm for some roadracing style fun. The bottom end photos show how the short stroke and long rod doesn't pull the piston skirt out of the bore at BDC. Judging how easy this thing is to turn over I think this should make some power AND last a long time. J.Rob
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Just going off the top of my head since I'm not in the shop. Cam is 256/260 @ .050" .580"/.585" 111 or 106 I think.Nice gear drive set up.
Whatcha doin for a camshaft?
Who’s rods?
Do you have a piston part number?