400 hp 5.2l vs 5.9l Magnums

-
@273 I don’t think you’re straight forward and run twisting thought trains blurring the line with smoke and mirrors. I seldom think you’re on track. Personally, I think your sacked in your thinking but please don’t cry about it since I’m not tying to be rude and give you a melt down.

You build your build and I’ll not get rude and step into your stuff like a jackass looking for a hornets nest. Further more, if you’re in need of a part I have doing nothing but collecting dust, I’ll send it to you. Just to help out. (IDGAF, it’s all good.)
 
I made the stroke the same but left the bore sizes at a huge difference on purpose but tightening them up with a 383-400 could yield get more discrepancies and seeming outlandish results.

Verification via a calculator also assumes much as variables in person builds or material and conditions of the quality of parts and machine work abound greatly.
To many variables to answer why I answered under perfect conditions and the gave a crazy variable in the most unlikely opposite direction aka worst case scenario.

In the above posts, his see- able claim is a 318 can out power a 360 through rpm. If I stop here, it’s a challenge for some to see that possible. But it is through changes of the engine. But he stated 400hp set of engines. And the 318 wins through gearing and rpm.

This is short sighted IMO since the 318 was helped in the conversation but not the 360. Might as well have given the 360 a 2bbl. & exhaust manifolds running 2.76 gears on 33’s.

Sound absurd? He does to me.
I've never once said the 318 would be faster at best I would be implying on par, To me there fairly close and setup right should be in a similar ballpark 1/4 mile wise. The other guy seem to glance at the 440 lbs-ft vs the 382 lbs-ft and concluded the 360 the winner without taking the rest of the driveline into account which was my point with the gearing that the 58 lbs-ft difference would at least shrink a fair bit with proper gearing . The 360 has a 10 ish hp advantage across at least part of the powerband don't know if that's enough to dominate every race.
 
Even if it is slightly slower than a similar 360/5.9l to me the articles showed if someone was looking to make power with a 318, magnum heads or a full 5.2l would be the ticket with a cam 4bbl and headers.
 
this is an age old dichotomy.
> a dragrace combo, is a different build than a street car combo, is different than a dual-purpose combo.
> The smaller the engine, the more specific the combo becomes.
> what makes the engines specific is the powerband, which relates directly to the type of trans you want to/have to run, and it's gear ratios.

a street car is a two-gear car.
a drag race car with a small hi-rpm engine needs more gears to keep the engine on the pipe/cam.

the problem is the Power-Band; and I will limit this discussion to a stick-shift car, because that is what I have.
That A833 comes with 4 gears only, and they are already too far apart for a small hi-rpm engine. The ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 with splits right around 72%. This means that when you shift it, the rpm will fall to 72% of what it was.
Your engine will have a useable powerband directly related to it's design;
so that as you strive for power, the higher the operating rpm needs to be, and then, the more narrow the power-band will end up being.
Thus if your rpm of peak power is at 6400, the torque peak might be around 5000, for a powerband of maybe 1400. So then, shifting at 6400, the rpm will drop to, 72% = 4600, fully 400 rpm below the torque peak. To get around this, and to increase average power during the run, you might think to shift at 7000. If you do, then with the A833, the rpm will drop to 72%=5040, and now you are sorta in business.
Well except for First gear.
Such a 273 combo might trap at say 106mph, thus requiring 4.88 gears to trap well/ ET best. Then the starter gear , being 4.88 x 2.66= 12.98, is just about right for the dragrace combo.
---------------------------------------------
The problem is that for the street, with a clutch car, this is all wrong, because;
1) first gear is screaming the engine, just a couple of car lengths out. but
2) when you shift into Second, the low-rpm power is so small and the engine is so far off the pipe, that it struggles to climb out of the hole. I say struggles as compared to a bigger engine, with a smaller cam, for a similar absolute dyno output.
3) by the time she gets into Third at say 32mph =2800, from Second at ~3700, she is so far off the power as to be very frustrating. So then, what ends up happening, is that you carry the rpm out to something like 5000 all the time, cuz .72 x 5000=3600, so you can have at least some torque after the shift. This might be fun for a day, but after that, not so much.
4) more gears is not the answer, cuz they are still so far apart. The answer, for this engine, is tighter splits.
Say your splits were 80%. Then, .80 x 6400=5120 , and so your powerband is now 1280 rpm. Carrying the rpm out to 6800 now, your best average power for this gear might be from 6800 to 80%=5440 , =1360rpm; then;
5) back on the street, this new trans has ratios of 1.00-1.25-1.56-1.95-2.44, yes, it's a 5 speed! and the starter is 4.88x2.44=11.91.. so then
6) first gear is screaming a lil worse now; but 32mph is 3800 in Second, 3030 in Third, 2430 in Fourth; so now you have a decent selection of gears. Well except for 65mph =3950..... she needs another gear! Say overdrive = 71%; which will bring the Rs down to 2800, about right for that crazy 273.
7) So now, to make the 273 work on the street, she needs a very close ratio 6-speed, with a deep overdrive, cuz honestly, as the miles and time go by, 65@2800 is also gonna get old. and
8) finally; , have you shopped for this theoretical transmission, with 80% splits? I did back in the day, (around 1998) and found something sortof suitable, but at the time, IIRC, it was over $4000 plus a very expensive shifter. All this just to run a 273 dual-purpose car? I said no thanks. So then;
-------------------------------------------------
9) I built a lazy-azz, 223* cammed 367 with 3.23s; problem solved. and she got into the 12s no problem. About 4 years later, I installed the GVOD, and that was that. You see; that 72% split A833 is perfect for a hi-compression 223*-cammed 367 with 3.91s to 4.30s, and the GVod brings 4.10s down to a more-manageable 3.20 final drive.and 65=2590
10) I eventually found a Commando gearset with a 3.09 low, that allowed the rear gear to be 3.23s, for a starter of 3.23 x 3.09=9.98. But it trapped wrong in Third gear, so I installed 3.55s. This traps at 93=5760 in third or 6160 in Second over. and 65=2240 Badaboom! ....and 32 mph is 1980rpm in third, 2716 in Second, 4370 in First, so; around town I always have a decent gear for a torquey 367. I usually leave it in Third, cuz if I floor it in Second, it just lights up the 295s....... Good luck doing that with a 273 and street gears.
-------------------------------------------------
I hope this presentation makes as much sense to you as it did/still does, to me, cuz;
it only took me 4 years, 5 freshenings, 3 cams, 3 transmissions, 2 clutches, MANY rear gears, and the GVod; to finally have ironed out the bugs, and
I started out this journey with a hi-compression 367! I don't even want to think about what it would have taken , had I dusted off my 273.
And if you ask me, a 340 would have been nearly as good a choice, cuz honestly, the 367 even with a now 230* cam, easily overpowers the street suspension, even with up to 325s on the back. and no, a 318 would not do...... for a dual-purpose car, for all the same reasons as the 273, namely, powerband. But;
the 367 was cheap to slam together; the KB 107s came in at .012 below deck, .028 gaskets got me .040 quench with closed chamber heads, and 78cc total chamber volume got me 10.6 Scr.; the 223* cam got me an Ica of 59*, so the Dcr came in at 8.84@181psi@930ftelevation. I mean this is how it bolted together! The only maching was for the pistons. With OOTB alloy heads she is happy to burn 87E10 all day every day. On subsequent freshenings , I dinked around a lil.
BTW,
during those early years, the 68 Barracuda was a 4 seasons Daily Driver. Every spring and fall, the 367 got swapped for a stock smog 318 with a TQ on it, and it got the TTIs that were in the car. And yes, I experimented with transmissions and gears with it as well. Not a chance did I ever consider to leave it in there come spring-time. . Not even when it ran A999 ratios with a 2800TC , and 2.76s for a starter of 7.56, and 65=2300 or so, and the magnificent Thermquad roar. Not even when it ran 4.30s and a double overdrive, for 65=1930.. I mean I loved that winter motor dearly, but it was just that.
Happy HotRodding whatever you choose.

If I was to run a 273, I would optimize it for the transmission of choice, and call it done. That's gonna point you toward Magnum small-chamber alloy heads, a small solid-lifter cam, and a minimum 185psi cylinder pressure. And I would run an A500 with deep gears, a 2800ish TC, and and let the ET be whatever it will be.
Why the A500? Because with a hi-stall, it will act like a 5 speed under power, and like a 6speed around town, and allow you to run those 4.88s if you insist, lol. For 65=2700 in lock-up
Why the solid lifter cam? Cuz it will give you one bigger size @.050 without the late-closing ICA. This will allow you to run one or maybe two sizes less rear gear on the hiway. With say 4.30s, 65=2400, fairly ideal for a modest cam.
Why the Magnums? cuz cramming air into those tiny bores is gonna take some porting effort so you might as well start with something decent.
Why alloy? cuz you can pump the pressure up to even 195psi on pump gas, with the domed tight-quench pistons that yur gonna need, and they are so much less of a PITA to port.
That's what I would do
BTW; the A518 has slightly tighter splits than the A500. But with 4.88s this is not a deal-breaker.
 
Last edited:
this is an age old dichotomy.
> a dragrace combo, is a different build than a street car combo, is different than a dual-purpose combo.
> The smaller the engine, the more specific the combo becomes.
> what makes the engines specific is the powerband, which relates directly to the type of trans you want to/have to run, and it's gear ratios.

a street car is a two-gear car.
a drag race car with a small hi-rpm engine needs more gears to keep the engine on the pipe/cam.

the problem is the Power-Band; and I will limit this discussion to a stick-shift car, because that is what I have.
That A833 comes with 4 gears only, and they are already too far apart for a small hi-rpm engine. The ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 with splits right around 72%. This means that when you shift it, the rpm will fall to 72% of what it was.
Your engine will have a useable powerband directly related to it's design;
so that as you strive for power, the higher the operating rpm needs to be, and then, the more narrow the power-band will end up being.
Thus if your rpm of peak power is at 6400, the torque peak might be around 5000, for a powerband of maybe 1400. So then, shifting at 6400, the rpm will drop to, 72% = 4600, fully 400 rpm below the torque peak. To get around this, and to increase average power during the run, you might think to shift at 7000. If you do, then with the A833, the rpm will drop to 72%=5040, and now you are sorta in business.
Well except for First gear.
Such a 273 combo might trap at say 106mph, thus requiring 4.88 gears to trap well/ ET best. Then the starter gear , being 4.88 x 2.66= 12.98, is just about right for the dragrace combo.
---------------------------------------------
The problem is that for the street, with a clutch car, this is all wrong, because;
1) first gear is screaming the engine, just a couple of car lengths out. but
2) when you shift into Second, the low-rpm power is so small and the engine is so far off the pipe, that it struggles to climb out of the hole. I say struggles as compared to a bigger engine, with a smaller cam, for a similar absolute dyno output.
3) by the time she gets into Third at say 32mph =2800, from Second at ~3700, she is so far off the power as to be very frustrating. So then, what ends up happening, is that you carry the rpm out to something like 5000 all the time, cuz .72 x 5000=3600, so you can have at least some torque after the shift. This might be fun for a day, but after that, not so much.
4) more gears is not the answer, cuz they are still so far apart. The answer, for this engine, is tighter splits.
Say your splits were 80%. Then, .80 x 6400=5120 , and so your powerband is now 1280 rpm. Carrying the rpm out to 6800 now, your best average power for this gear might be from 6800 to 80%=5440 , =1360rpm; then;
5) back on the street, this new trans has ratios of 1.00-1.25-1.56-1.95-2.44, yes, it's a 5 speed! and the starter is 4.88x2.44=11.91.. so then
6) first gear is screaming a lil worse now; but 32mph is 3800 in Second, 3030 in Third, 2430 in Fourth; so now you have a decent selection of gears. Well except for 65mph =3950..... she needs another gear! Say overdrive = 71%; which will bring the Rs down to 2800, about right for that crazy 273.
7) So now, to make the 273 work on the street, she needs a very close ratio 6-speed, with a deep overdrive, cuz honestly, as the miles and time go by, 65@2800 is also gonna get old. and
8) finally; , have you shopped for this theoretical transmission, with 80% splits? I did back in the day, (around 1998) and found something sortof suitable, but at the time, IIRC, it was over $4000 plus a very expensive shifter. All this just to run a 273 dual-purpose car? I said no thanks. So then;
-------------------------------------------------
9) I built a lazy-azz, 223* cammed 367 with 3.23s; problem solved. and she got into the 12s no problem. About 4 years later, I installed the GVOD, and that was that. You see; that 72% split A833 is perfect for a hi-compression 223*-cammed 367 with 3.91s to 4.30s, and the GVod brings 4.10s down to a more-manageable 3.20 final drive.and 65=2590
10) I eventually found a Commando gearset with a 3.09 low, that allowed the rear gear to be 3.23s, for a starter of 3.23 x 3.09=9.98. But it trapped wrong in Third gear, so I installed 3.55s. This traps at 93=5760 in third or 6160 in Second over. and 65=2240 Badaboom! ....and 32 mph is 1980rpm in third, 2716 in Second, 4370 in First, so; around town I always have a decent gear for a torquey 367. I usually leave it in Third, cuz if I floor it in Second, it just lights up the 295s....... Good luck doing that with a 273 and street gears.
-------------------------------------------------
I hope this presentation makes as much sense to you as it did/still does, to me, cuz;
it only took me 4 years, 5 freshenings, 3 cams, 3 transmissions, 2 clutches, MANY rear gears, and the GVod; to finally have ironed out the bugs, and
I started out this journey with a hi-compression 367! I don't even want to think about what it would have taken , had I dusted off my 273.
And if you ask me, a 340 would have been nearly as good a choice, cuz honestly, the 367 even with a now 230* cam, easily overpowers the street suspension, even with up to 325s on the back. and no, a 318 would not do...... for a dual-purpose car, for all the same reasons as the 273, namely, powerband. But;
the 367 was cheap to slam together; the KB 107s came in at .012 below deck, .028 gaskets got me .040 quench with closed chamber heads, and 78cc total chamber volume got me 10.6 Scr.; the 223* cam got me an Ica of 59*, so the Dcr came in at 8.84@181psi@930ftelevation. I mean this is how it bolted together! The only maching was for the pistons. With OOTB alloy heads she is happy to burn 87E10 all day every day. On subsequent freshenings , I dinked around a lil.
BTW,
during those early years, the 68 Barracuda was a 4 seasons Daily Driver. Every spring and fall, the 367 got swapped for a stock smog 318 with a TQ on it, and it got the TTIs that were in the car. And yes, I experimented with transmissions and gears with it as well. Not a chance did I ever consider to leave it in there come spring-time. . Not even when it ran A999 ratios with a 2800TC , and 2.76s for a starter of 7.56, and 65=2300 or so, and the magnificent Thermquad roar. Not even when it ran 4.30s and a double overdrive, for 65=1930.. I mean I loved that winter motor dearly, but it was just that.
Happy HotRodding whatever you choose.

If I was to run a 273, I would optimize it for the transmission of choice, and call it done. That's gonna point you toward Magnum small-chamber alloy heads, a small solid-lifter cam, and a minimum 185psi cylinder pressure. And I would run an A500 with deep gears, a 2800ish TC, and and let the ET be whatever it will be.
Why the A500? Because with a hi-stall, it will act like a 5 speed under power, and like a 6speed around town, and allow you to run those 4.88s if you insist, lol. For 65=2700 in lock-up
Why the solid lifter cam? Cuz it will give you one bigger size @.050 without the late-closing ICA. This will allow you to run one or maybe two sizes less rear gear on the hiway. With say 4.30s, 65=2400, fairly ideal for a modest cam.
Why the Magnums? cuz cramming air into those tiny bores is gonna take some porting effort so you might as well start with something decent.
Why alloy? cuz you can pump the pressure up to even 195psi on pump gas, with the domed tight-quench pistons that yur gonna need, and they are so much less of a PITA to port.
That's what I would do
BTW; the A518 has slightly tighter splits than the A500. But with 4.88s this is not a deal-breaker.


You only have a 72% drop in RPM if you allow the clutch to lock up. The clutch shouldn’t be locked up at at low RPM like that.

1. Have you EVER went to a drag strip and RACED a clutch car? That’s a serious question.

2. See question 1 and my first statement.

3. See above.

4. See above.

5. See above.

6. See above.

7. See above.

8. See above.


This is the problem with guys who don’t understand clutches and sticks telling people how to build them.

You’re entire post is predicated on clutch lock up and that’s INSANE.

So your gear split percentages are off. You can verify this by looking at a data log from a well tuned clutch car.

As far as street stuff, I don’t know how you build stuff but my **** drives so easy my wife can drive it.
 
THAT is what I was trying to get at!!

Torque above peak means what? Especially when you never see the low side of peak torque.

And what about how much torque you make at anything less than WOT?

Guys get so hung up on torque that they miss the big picture.
 
I guess some haven't witnessed a Chevy 350 running down a 440 at the track .
Seen it many times over the years.
We all know them 350's were torque monsters. lol
 
Thank you AJ! But…..

****….. tree’d by RatBastard…. Dang it!

RB, The post above you answered in? You need to have your reply in bold for easy reading.

Running a clutch car can be a PIA. Personally I can’t wait until I get back in mine. I so miss the third pedal.
 
Surprisingly similar builds making 400-409 hp just where you want your hp to peak 5400-5600 rpm or 5900-6200 rpm.
Geared right you would have a strong runner either way.

5.2l Magnum heads
Mopar 318 Engine - Car Craft Magazine

5.9l 380hp create, Magnum heads
360 Crate Engine Buildup & Dyno - Mopar Muscle Magazine

5.2l EQ heads
Chrysler 318 Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine
5.9l EQ heads
5.9L Magnum Engine - Make Mine A 5.9


Bonus 400 hp 318 build ported 302 heads
318 Small Block Build - How To - Hot Rod Magazine

LOL. Looks like HP is in the heads and combination, rather than CU in...
 
HP is HP How you manipulate that HP determines the end result.
 
HP is HP How you manipulate that HP determines the end result.
All things being equal, the 360 just don't offer more low-end torque, it offers more HP at the upper RPM's as well. I love all the mopar small blocks. The 318 is going to need a little more gears, stall, and rpm's to run with a 360. And that means it's less motor. That being said, if ya got a 318 and want to build it, by all means do it! I have, I am, and I will. But I've also pulled a lot of 318's to put in 360's. Including a couple of cars I have now.
 
All things being equal, the 360 just don't offer more low-end torque, it offers more HP at the upper RPM's as well. I love all the mopar small blocks. The 318 is going to need a little more gears, stall, and rpm's to run with a 360. And that means it's less motor.
Ha,ha,ha I miss eating up my best friends Chevy long arm 383 with my old short stroke 383.
Was it gear and convertor that gave me the advantage. lol
HP for HP we were about dead even, I'm one of the guy's that would run your *** down. lol
 
Ha,ha,ha I miss eating up my best friends Chevy long arm 383 with my old short stroke 383.
Was it gear and convertor that gave me the advantage. lol
HP for HP we were about dead even, I'm one of the guy's that would run your *** down. lol
5.2 magnum vs 5.9 magnum right from the factory... same heads, intake, throttle body, exhaust manifolds, but the 5.2 actually had the "hotter" cam but the 5.9 still made about 15 more hp. I think you run a stroker now??? Why did you add more crank....????? :poke:
 
5.2 magnum vs 5.9 magnum right from the factory... same heads, intake, throttle body, exhaust manifolds, but the 5.2 actually had the "hotter" cam but the 5.9 still made about 15 more hp. I think you run a stroker now??? Why did you add more crank....????? :poke:
To manipulate my HP with less gearing and convertor for the few times I get the car out on the street, my track day's are long gone.
My old buddy traded his Chevy 383 for a 496 in his 70 Nova. lol
Him and I and a few other friends did the AHRA thing back in the day. It's been dead for awhile up here.
 
this is an age old dichotomy.
> a dragrace combo, is a different build than a street car combo, is different than a dual-purpose combo.
> The smaller the engine, the more specific the combo becomes.
> what makes the engines specific is the powerband, which relates directly to the type of trans you want to/have to run, and it's gear ratios.

a street car is a two-gear car.
a drag race car with a small hi-rpm engine needs more gears to keep the engine on the pipe/cam.

the problem is the Power-Band; and I will limit this discussion to a stick-shift car, because that is what I have.
That A833 comes with 4 gears only, and they are already too far apart for a small hi-rpm engine. The ratios are
2.66-1.92-1.40-1.00 with splits right around 72%. This means that when you shift it, the rpm will fall to 72% of what it was.
Your engine will have a useable powerband directly related to it's design;
so that as you strive for power, the higher the operating rpm needs to be, and then, the more narrow the power-band will end up being.
Thus if your rpm of peak power is at 6400, the torque peak might be around 5000, for a powerband of maybe 1400. So then, shifting at 6400, the rpm will drop to, 72% = 4600, fully 400 rpm below the torque peak. To get around this, and to increase average power during the run, you might think to shift at 7000. If you do, then with the A833, the rpm will drop to 72%=5040, and now you are sorta in business.
Well except for First gear.
Such a 273 combo might trap at say 106mph, thus requiring 4.88 gears to trap well/ ET best. Then the starter gear , being 4.88 x 2.66= 12.98, is just about right for the dragrace combo.
---------------------------------------------
The problem is that for the street, with a clutch car, this is all wrong, because;
1) first gear is screaming the engine, just a couple of car lengths out. but
2) when you shift into Second, the low-rpm power is so small and the engine is so far off the pipe, that it struggles to climb out of the hole. I say struggles as compared to a bigger engine, with a smaller cam, for a similar absolute dyno output.
3) by the time she gets into Third at say 32mph =2800, from Second at ~3700, she is so far off the power as to be very frustrating. So then, what ends up happening, is that you carry the rpm out to something like 5000 all the time, cuz .72 x 5000=3600, so you can have at least some torque after the shift. This might be fun for a day, but after that, not so much.
4) more gears is not the answer, cuz they are still so far apart. The answer, for this engine, is tighter splits.
Say your splits were 80%. Then, .80 x 6400=5120 , and so your powerband is now 1280 rpm. Carrying the rpm out to 6800 now, your best average power for this gear might be from 6800 to 80%=5440 , =1360rpm; then;
5) back on the street, this new trans has ratios of 1.00-1.25-1.56-1.95-2.44, yes, it's a 5 speed! and the starter is 4.88x2.44=11.91.. so then
6) first gear is screaming a lil worse now; but 32mph is 3800 in Second, 3030 in Third, 2430 in Fourth; so now you have a decent selection of gears. Well except for 65mph =3950..... she needs another gear! Say overdrive = 71%; which will bring the Rs down to 2800, about right for that crazy 273.
7) So now, to make the 273 work on the street, she needs a very close ratio 6-speed, with a deep overdrive, cuz honestly, as the miles and time go by, 65@2800 is also gonna get old. and
8) finally; , have you shopped for this theoretical transmission, with 80% splits? I did back in the day, (around 1998) and found something sortof suitable, but at the time, IIRC, it was over $4000 plus a very expensive shifter. All this just to run a 273 dual-purpose car? I said no thanks. So then;
-------------------------------------------------
9) I built a lazy-azz, 223* cammed 367 with 3.23s; problem solved. and she got into the 12s no problem. About 4 years later, I installed the GVOD, and that was that. You see; that 72% split A833 is perfect for a hi-compression 223*-cammed 367 with 3.91s to 4.30s, and the GVod brings 4.10s down to a more-manageable 3.20 final drive.and 65=2590
10) I eventually found a Commando gearset with a 3.09 low, that allowed the rear gear to be 3.23s, for a starter of 3.23 x 3.09=9.98. But it trapped wrong in Third gear, so I installed 3.55s. This traps at 93=5760 in third or 6160 in Second over. and 65=2240 Badaboom! ....and 32 mph is 1980rpm in third, 2716 in Second, 4370 in First, so; around town I always have a decent gear for a torquey 367. I usually leave it in Third, cuz if I floor it in Second, it just lights up the 295s....... Good luck doing that with a 273 and street gears.
-------------------------------------------------
I hope this presentation makes as much sense to you as it did/still does, to me, cuz;
it only took me 4 years, 5 freshenings, 3 cams, 3 transmissions, 2 clutches, MANY rear gears, and the GVod; to finally have ironed out the bugs, and
I started out this journey with a hi-compression 367! I don't even want to think about what it would have taken , had I dusted off my 273.
And if you ask me, a 340 would have been nearly as good a choice, cuz honestly, the 367 even with a now 230* cam, easily overpowers the street suspension, even with up to 325s on the back. and no, a 318 would not do...... for a dual-purpose car, for all the same reasons as the 273, namely, powerband. But;
the 367 was cheap to slam together; the KB 107s came in at .012 below deck, .028 gaskets got me .040 quench with closed chamber heads, and 78cc total chamber volume got me 10.6 Scr.; the 223* cam got me an Ica of 59*, so the Dcr came in at 8.84@181psi@930ftelevation. I mean this is how it bolted together! The only maching was for the pistons. With OOTB alloy heads she is happy to burn 87E10 all day every day. On subsequent freshenings , I dinked around a lil.
BTW,
during those early years, the 68 Barracuda was a 4 seasons Daily Driver. Every spring and fall, the 367 got swapped for a stock smog 318 with a TQ on it, and it got the TTIs that were in the car. And yes, I experimented with transmissions and gears with it as well. Not a chance did I ever consider to leave it in there come spring-time. . Not even when it ran A999 ratios with a 2800TC , and 2.76s for a starter of 7.56, and 65=2300 or so, and the magnificent Thermquad roar. Not even when it ran 4.30s and a double overdrive, for 65=1930.. I mean I loved that winter motor dearly, but it was just that.
Happy HotRodding whatever you choose.

If I was to run a 273, I would optimize it for the transmission of choice, and call it done. That's gonna point you toward Magnum small-chamber alloy heads, a small solid-lifter cam, and a minimum 185psi cylinder pressure. And I would run an A500 with deep gears, a 2800ish TC, and and let the ET be whatever it will be.
Why the A500? Because with a hi-stall, it will act like a 5 speed under power, and like a 6speed around town, and allow you to run those 4.88s if you insist, lol. For 65=2700 in lock-up
Why the solid lifter cam? Cuz it will give you one bigger size @.050 without the late-closing ICA. This will allow you to run one or maybe two sizes less rear gear on the hiway. With say 4.30s, 65=2400, fairly ideal for a modest cam.
Why the Magnums? cuz cramming air into those tiny bores is gonna take some porting effort so you might as well start with something decent.
Why alloy? cuz you can pump the pressure up to even 195psi on pump gas, with the domed tight-quench pistons that yur gonna need, and they are so much less of a PITA to port.
That's what I would do
BTW; the A518 has slightly tighter splits than the A500. But with 4.88s this is not a deal-breaker.
I like your build, like how you fine tuned it over the years to fit your needs especially with gearing most seem to treat it as an after thought. Yours would be a good combo for people to follow for light to light fun, ya might be right about a 318 and I would recommend a 360 over 318 if the option is open but not against the building /6 273/318 etc.. And they are more sensitive to gearing stall etc.. but I don't think running a 318 is dire as you make it out, and 66fs has fine tuned his combo over the years and finds 273 to be the ticket for him. A lot of this comes to personal preference.
 
Agreed. He crutched a 318’s weaker output with more gear is the way to go- no argument. How he states what he did his a run & hide - smoke and mirror show side stepping the 318’s lack of power and then claiming in a way it’s all a wash with gearing when the topic is power.

Further BS is hiding the fact with more smoke and mirror with chassis issues which are not the starter topic of engine power but just a way to beef up what is not there. It’s illusion.
Why would you compare with same gearing no one would ever recommend the same gearing for both of these engines it's hot rodding 101 that the 318 will need more gear and stall to get it into it's powerband to say otherwise is wrong and arbitrarily handicapping the 318 with an unnecessary expectation to have to be compared with same gearing, it makes no sense to do so.
 
Why would you compare with same gearing no one would ever recommend the same gearing for both of these engines
Stop! Never did. I said if one engine can up the anti with gear ratio changes, why can’t the other?

Thanks for playing .

 
why can’t the other?
We are comparing two performances engines so the best way to do that some kind of performance contest aka a drag race 1/4 or 1/8 or maybe zero to 60 mph or to 100 mph or maybe some back road drag spot maybe even a road course. Lets say a 1/4 mile drag race so two identical cars each running one of these engine and run the gear gives the fastest time for each. The 318 gear will obviously be deeper how much deeper I don't know but bet it will be around the cid and torque difference. This ain't rocket science. So why can't you run more gear in the 360 cause there's a point where it doesn't help increase and starts to hurt performance. Can't make it any clearer.
 
I'd like to see a 273 built to similar specs
I have put a 340 top top end (heads, cam, intake and carb) on a 273 since I had a forged crank, TRW forged 10.5:1 piston shortblock. Pretty much ran like a 340, minus a small bit. The problem with a 273 and really high flowing heads you get past a 7,000 rpm peak. Not really friendly on the street, pretty much driving around in 2nd gear unless you are on the highway.
 
So why can't you run more gear in the 360 cause there's a point where it doesn't help increase and starts to hurt performance.
And this is not possible for the 318? LMAO!

You want to help the 318 w/more gear but I’m not allowed to with the 360 at all because it is too much gear for it? Seriously?
ROFLMAO!
 
I have put a 340 top top end (heads, cam, intake and carb) on a 273 since I had a forged crank, TRW forged 10.5:1 piston shortblock. Pretty much ran like a 340, minus a small bit. The problem with a 273 and really high flowing heads you get past a 7,000 rpm peak. Not really friendly on the street, pretty much driving around in 2nd gear unless you are on the highway.
You didn't have any clearance issues between the valves and cylinder walls?
 
And this is not possible for the 318? LMAO!

You want to help the 318 w/more gear but I’m not allowed to with the 360 at all because it is too much gear for it? Seriously?
ROFLMAO!
Do you agree you just can't keep on adding infinitely more gear for faster e.t.?

If agreed do you agree the 318 with peak power 800 rpm higher will need deeper gears than the 360 at optimal gearing for both for best e.t. ?

Do agree your basic premise if I put more gear behind the 318 you could do same with the 360?

If so say for a eg 360 = 4.56 and 318 =5.13 this the optimal gear for each, why adding 5.13 behind the 360 ain't gonna work ?
 
-
Back
Top