400 with TF 240 heads - valley plate options?

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I talked to the trick flow tech department he told me the 2 piece Valley tray will work but there is a gap between the head and tray that would need to be filled in, and instead of offering for the 240 heads and getting complaints they just offer it for the 270's and fits better
It's possible that the AR Engineering batwings could be used to eliminate that gap with the Trickflow pan. I was going to go that route a couple months ago, as I liked the idea of having the removable window in the pan - BUT, at the time, the Trickflow valley pan had a very long lead time, and i wanted to button up my build.
 
I talked to the trick flow tech department he told me the 2 piece Valley tray will work but there is a gap between the head and tray that would need to be filled in, and instead of offering for the 240 heads and getting complaints they just offer it for the 270's and fits better
I would think that Trick Flow could/would make a part that works with each head well. They can sell me a nice set of heads for $2200 but as far as the $150 valley plate, uhhh, buy a tube of silicone & good luck.
 
The nice valley plates only work with the raised port heads.
As far as standard style heads, (I have RPMs) In the past I had problems with the stock pan/gasket sammich keeping a good seal underneath so I've used the 440 source sheet metal and the 2-piece Hughes units. They all sucked....they just don't seal well. There are big gaps at each end of the bent-down edge that fits under the head, and yeah you can fill it with 'right stuff' or your favorite sealant and it will still end up leaking.
And I used to think it was stupid....but what's actually worked really good is trimming the port flanges off the stock tin pan, and bending the edges down so they fit under the heads. Some ultra gray and no problems. It's kind of the same idea as the 440 source pan, but it's very easy to trim to fit nice and tight, looks stock and fits under any intake. And.....cheap!
 
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I have a 470 stroker with Stage 6 Mopar heads. The valley plate Is just cut out of 1/4 in aluminum. It can be removed with both heads still on the motor. Kim
 
Hmmm. I thought the 240 heads extended past the valley slightly requiring a plate set up? I am modestly hoping for around 500 hp - 470 stroker with 240 heads - does the factory style valley plate cover the ports on these heads?
You should read the Trick Flow articles I have on my website. I covered all of this information years ago. The factory valley pan will work, it just doesn't work very well. The ports don't line up very well with the Trick Flow ports. It will work okay on a modest performance engine, you'll never notice the difference. If you are trying to squeeze the last 10 hp out the engine then you need the batwing setup.
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You should read the Trick Flow articles I have on my website. I covered all of this information years ago. The factory valley pan will work, it just doesn't work very well. The ports don't line up very well with the Trick Flow ports. It will work okay on a modest performance engine, you'll never notice the difference. If you are trying to squeeze the last 10 hp out the engine then you need the batwing setup.
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Andys stuff is kick ***, dont get me wrong. But I dont want to pull a head just to get to the lifter galley, prefer victor type heads myself, fror that reason .
 
Andys stuff is kick ***, dont get me wrong. But I dont want to pull a head just to get to the lifter galley, prefer victor type heads myself, fror that reason .
The OP is asking about TF240 heads. You don't need to pull the heads to pull the valley plate with 240 heads. The valley plate just lifts right off. No wonder the poor guy is all confused and can't figure out what to buy.
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The OP is asking about TF240 heads. You don't need to pull the heads to pull the valley plate with 240 heads. The valley plate just lifts right off. No wonder the poor guy is all confused and can't figure out what to buy.
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Maybe you should cover this?
:thumbsup:

Oh wait! You did!!!
:rofl:

I think it’s time a stocky was made for this issue.
Heaven knows I’ll forget in 3....2....1....
 
The OP is asking about TF240 heads. You don't need to pull the heads to pull the valley plate with 240 heads. The valley plate just lifts right off. No wonder the poor guy is all confused and can't figure out what to buy.
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Andy is right. How many times does it have to be said. Even a clown like me uses the stock valley pan with the 240 heads.
 
The OP is asking about TF240 heads. You don't need to pull the heads to pull the valley plate with 240 heads. The valley plate just lifts right off. No wonder the poor guy is all confused and can't figure out what to buy.
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Doesn't the 240's come with a gasket matched type of port job?. If so the valley pan ports should fairly match up to the 240 ports. I've not bought a set of Trick Flows as of yet as I have Indy equipment. A friend of mine bought a set of the 240's and I just looked them over quickly.
 
Andy is right. How many times does it have to be said. Even a clown like me uses the stock valley pan with the 240 heads.
Several years ago I bought a set of the Edelbrock RPM's and did a gasket match mild port job on them and the stock valley pan worked just fine. Didn't have any issues.
 
Doesn't the 240's come with a gasket matched type of port job?. If so the valley pan ports should fairly match up to the 240 ports. I've not bought a set of Trick Flows as of yet as I have Indy equipment. A friend of mine bought a set of the 240's and I just looked them over quickly.

The stock valley pan works okay for a lower performance engine. I developed the valley tray and batwing setup because I was making more than 700 hp with my pump gas 470.

 
Several years ago I bought a set of the Edelbrock RPM's and did a gasket match mild port job on them and the stock valley pan worked just fine. Didn't have any issues.
You won't have any issues as long as you aren't trying to make a lot of power.
 
You won't have any issues as long as you aren't trying to make a lot of power.
The current 440 I've built with a 3.75 stroke has Indy Heads along with the Indy valley tray with removable center section. Decent compression along with a fairly aggressive solid lift. I'm going to be somewhere in the 650hp range. That's about the limit I wanted to go because of the stock block.
 
Yeah it's been said like five times now that the stock valley plate will work. Is ya deef?
LAST I READ WAS THE STOCK ONE HAD TO BE CUT OUT TOO FAR .
GOTTA ADMIT NOT REAL INTERESTED , MIGHT HAVE MISSED THAT---------------AND YEAH UP TO A CERTAIN POINT THEY SAID I WAS STONE DEAF, FOR SOUNDS BELOW A CERTAIN POINT .
 
LAST I READ WAS THE STOCK ONE HAD TO BE CUT OUT TOO FAR .
GOTTA ADMIT NOT REAL INTERESTED , MIGHT HAVE MISSED THAT---------------AND YEAH UP TO A CERTAIN POINT THEY SAID I WAS STONE DEAF, FOR SOUNDS BELOW A CERTAIN POINT .

Well I am deef, so there! lol
 
Well, thanks for all the info.......and boosting my self image. : / I guess what was throwing me off was the fact that there was a "gap" that needed to be sealed/covered. I figured if Trick Flow was going to make one, then there shouldn't be a gap? Also, the "batwing" set up for AR's plate - with that lip on the bottom? Gave me the impression the lip was helping cover a "gap"? I think Kimmer posted using a 1/4" piece of aluminum. If you make it, I figured a thin skim of rtv and you're good - use some material gaskets on the heads (matched to the ports) and done? Anyway, thank you all for the info. I think I got it now. I'm getting a little older and try to stay current on all the tips, tricks, advances....but I can't keep up. Spending most of my time saving up for and learning about the stuff that was "the best" five years ago....kinda like my "journey"....I can't walk on water but when JESUS calls me, I'm getting out of the boat!
 
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