4000 rpm's at 60, no 3rd?

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Well that makes a lot more sense then, I was thinking normal a body with a small block. I can still post the pics though as mine has a threaded rod down to the tranny hookup to give it even more adjustment that they didn't include in later cars, maybe it will give you some ideas on how to make something that will work with you engine and carb setup.
I'm still unloading all the pics from my camera then I'll have to resize the ones I think will help. I did have a 69 sport fury with a 440, I think it's setup was kinda similar to that.
 
here's the pics. The air cleaner you barely see came with that 350 dollar Sport Fury I bought many years ago and drove home too.

linkage 1 small.jpg


linkage 3 small.jpg
 
It doesn't matter if you have the old style or new style linkage as long as all the pieces are from a matched set and adjusted properly. There is no internal adjustment (except for the throttle valve idle adjustment and that isn't the problem) so there's no need to drop the pan and try. All the adjustment for the throttle pressure is done externally. It's quite possible the use of the non stock Edelbrock carb. in conjunction with stock type linkage is the problem. The ratio of how much the linkage is pushed back is more with an Edelbrock carb. cause it's mounted off center farther. Edelbrock sells an adapter to install that corrects the ratio and with it I don't think you will have to have that home made adapter to raise the throttle cable up. If that doesn't fix it someone has been inside the trans. and either cranked up the line pressure to try to make it shift harder or installed a shift kit that isn't very good causing it to hang in gear too long. I've seen that happen with some shift kits.
 
The first 727 I put in my Dart was like that, it shifted so hard it finally ate itself one day when the wave ring thing that holds one of the clutch packs cracked from me abusing it too much. I had drive in drive, drive in park, and reverse for just enough time to make it home before it spun out.
When we tore it down the guy had turned up the spring that came in the kit 6 turns and the book said no turns out for street use, 2 turns for drag racing only. I built another one and broke it again eventually so I had one built with a stage one kit and no any speed downshift to save me from myself:snakeman:
It doesn't hit as hard or shift as high but it's been in for 20 years and still works, plus it's safer to drive in the rain as it doesn't hit so hard it kicks the *** out on light throttle like the stage 2 did, and that was with a 318:toothy10:
If I remember right the 318 throttle cable bracket was flat, and the one for the 4bbl was vertical to make up for the offset of the AVS typically found on them. I'm sure the 440 should have similar issues but I'm surprised it isn't close enough with a aftermarket AVS unless the Thermoquad that was typical on is way farther over and forward or something, which would really throw off his setup and cause his issues. I had a hard time finding the right setup 20 years ago when I decided to put a 4bbl on mine, a big block should be way easier to find in some form that should work, or at least be able to be modded to work.
 
Thanks again for all the input. I'm gonna see if I can find that Eddy adapter online, I believe I remember seeing it once

Probably a dumb question, but since moving the rod like I did made it somewhat better, what's to stop me from making the groove in the rod a little deeper, allowing me to bolt it even further back and consequently make it shift even sooner?

Something actually tells me that the rod coming from the tranny to the carb isn't stock, and was actually fabricated. I know this is a big no-no, and is probably the cause of all this. Does this mean it's time to go lokar?
 
ToastToAlmost said:
Thanks again for all the input. I'm gonna see if I can find that Eddy adapter online, I believe I remember seeing it once

Probably a dumb question, but since moving the rod like I did made it somewhat better, what's to stop me from making the groove in the rod a little deeper, allowing me to bolt it even further back and consequently make it shift even sooner?

I've had to modify things like that before. As long as you get it working right it's fine.
Click to expand...

Something actually tells me that the rod coming from the tranny to the carb isn't stock, and was actually fabricated. I know this is a big no-no, and is probably the cause of all this. Does this mean it's time to go lokar?
Click to expand...

As long as you get it shifting fine you'll be ok.
 
Yep, as long as it works right and doesn't bind up the tranny wont care what the rods look like.
When I first converted my Dart to 4bbl the 2 BBL parts I had were too long and I needed a shorter rod by about a inch that I couldn't get outa the adjustment. I ended up putting a small bolt that in the slotted piece with the spring, it made it think it was a inch shorter then tweaked it till it shifted just like I wanted.
It worked fine like that for over a year till I found the right pieces that are on it now.
 
I was looking at the rod more today, and it seems to be a little longer than what the stock one should be, which is probably why it's not really putting the linkage in much range of adjustment.

The hole in the bracket that the rod bolts into was offset a little to one side, so what I did was reverse the bracket. It gave me about 1/2 inch of extra adjustment to play with. I found a spot where it shifts a little better and doesn't seem to downshift as soon when slowing down, so I'm content with it until I can change the throttle over to something else.
 
Cool, you'll be putting along with something like I did with my 2bbl linkage, fool it into working OK till I could find what I needed. I think the setup is still out in the garage somewhere and I always get a smile when I run across it.
Hit some yards and maybe you can Frankenstein some rods or whatever for your setup and work properly, good luck with it:-D
 
I forgot about those, I had to run one when I had a AVS on here and the 2bbl throttle cable as they were a bit shorter I think and I couldn't get WOT either.
Man, there was so much stuff that really needed to be changed just to do a simple carb swap now that I think about it.
having the proper throttle cable bracket on the intake made up most of it though from what I remember.
Once I got a good 9800 series thermoquad with the electric choke I never looked back and they have been the best carb on my 318 so far.
 
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