408 4x4 build

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mopar4x4stroker

mopar4x4stroker

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I know I don't belong here lol, but it seems alot of knowledgeable sb stroker guys hang out here. I'll have a dart/duster/scamp some day, although I'd rather have a challenger/cuda/roadrunner. I love all mopars and were all the same family at heart so don't flame me for being on FABO with a 4x4 lol.

I need some tips w/ building a 408 for my 86 W150

This truck will be street/hwy driven 10-15days a month so its not a daily driver but it will still be based more twords tq and mpg. The truck has 3.55 gears w/ 31" tires and stock stall w/ the std 3spd 727 and part time 208.

Heres my build in progress, I don't have everything yet. Still need short block and heads. All I have is the block, carb, intake, rockers, headers, ign, dampner, 6way timing set, cam, HV oil pump.

specs;
'82 360 block .030 over and 0 decked
scatt cast crank
eagle I beam rods
-27cc dish forged kb pistons
edllebrock rpm performer intake
holley 770 sa carb w/ elc choke
mopar alum 1.5 RR's
hooker headers
msd 6al ign w/ 45k volt accel coil w/ 8.8 wires
HEH3742AL cam from hughes

For heads, I think the new Indy/RHS 360 LAX heads w/ 2.02's would be the best bang for my buck. As far as brand new aftermarket as cast non ported heads go.

I should have waited on buying a cam and did more research and asked around, but I wanted to beat the price jump and thats what hughes recommended for my app w/ Indy X heads on 9.5:1. I'm worried its going to be to big for a truck motor on the street w/ short gears.

Specs are 237/242 @ .050 and 548/555 lift w/ 108lsa

Engine Analyzer 3.4 estimated idle vac to be 12.6hg. I'm used to 18-20hg. How will this effect my brakes or idle signal. Would 14-16 be safer. I also tested w/ a 232/238 110lsa that pulled 14 and a 228/232 111lsa that pulled 16hg. Both cams droped peak hp/tq by 500rpm, but Both cams also made 20-30 more torque frome idle to 3-3500rpm were it needs to be in my application.
Idk how accurate EA 3.4 is but they get pretty technical and I gave all the info accuratly from bore/stroke/rod lenght, head flow, runner cc, chamber cc, chmber design, comp ratio, cam specs, header specs/intake specs, elevation, temp, barometric temp the list goes on. They even asks octain level. I'd like to think its accurate. Then agian this was just a 14day trial, its like a $400 program so maybe the results arent accurate w/ the demo.

Whats you thought guys...

Whats the max comp ratio I can run on 89oct, will 9.5:1 be pushing it. Didn't mags run 9.5. What cam would you guys recommend.

Thanks, Dustin
 
I got a 418" 4blt 340 base blk in a 85/93 dodge power ram crew cab for sale.... BEST of everything...
4spd, GV, D-60 hds, fnt & rear select lockers, trussed...
Tons of upgrades, practically brand new.. less than 500 on the motor
8500....

Or you can do what you're doing, port the heads some, a touch more cam, edel AG, go roller also, i use a ported angle milled 587 with a custom made quench piston for my build to sqz 9.8 with no issues whether there is nothing or 16k behind it..
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
I know I don't belong here lol, but it seems alot of knowledgeable sb stroker guys hang out here. I'll have a dart/duster/scamp some day, although I'd rather have a challenger/cuda/roadrunner. I love all mopars and were all the same family at heart so don't flame me for being on FABO with a 4x4 lol.

I need some tips w/ building a 408 for my 86 W150

This truck will be street/hwy driven 10-15days a month so its not a daily driver but it will still be based more twords tq and mpg. The truck has 3.55 gears w/ 31" tires and stock stall w/ the std 3spd 727 and part time 208.

Heres my build in progress, I don't have everything yet. Still need short block and heads. All I have is the block, carb, intake, rockers, headers, ign, dampner, 6way timing set, cam, HV oil pump.

specs;
'82 360 block .030 over and 0 decked
scatt cast crank
eagle I beam rods
-27cc dish forged kb pistons
edllebrock rpm performer intake
holley 770 sa carb w/ elc choke
mopar alum 1.5 RR's
hooker headers
msd 6al ign w/ 45k volt accel coil w/ 8.8 wires
HEH3742AL cam from hughes

For heads, I think the new Indy/RHS 360 LAX heads w/ 2.02's would be the best bang for my buck. As far as brand new aftermarket as cast non ported heads go.

I should have waited on buying a cam and did more research and asked around, but I wanted to beat the price jump and thats what hughes recommended for my app w/ Indy X heads on 9.5:1. I'm worried its going to be to big for a truck motor on the street w/ short gears.

Specs are 237/242 @ .050 and 548/555 lift w/ 108lsa

Engine Analyzer 3.4 estimated idle vac to be 12.6hg. I'm used to 18-20hg. How will this effect my brakes or idle signal. Would 14-16 be safer. I also tested w/ a 232/238 110lsa that pulled 14 and a 228/232 111lsa that pulled 16hg. Both cams droped peak hp/tq by 500rpm, but Both cams also made 20-30 more torque frome idle to 3-3500rpm were it needs to be in my application.
Idk how accurate EA 3.4 is but they get pretty technical and I gave all the info accuratly from bore/stroke/rod lenght, head flow, runner cc, chamber cc, chmber design, comp ratio, cam specs, header specs/intake specs, elevation, temp, barometric temp the list goes on. They even asks octain level. I'd like to think its accurate. Then agian this was just a 14day trial, its like a $400 program so maybe the results arent accurate w/ the demo.

Whats you thought guys...

Whats the max comp ratio I can run on 89oct, will 9.5:1 be pushing it. Didn't mags run 9.5. What cam would you guys recommend.

Thanks, Dustin
Click to expand...

Cam is way too big. If you want lowend grun and mpg, you need a lca of around 112 and I would shoot for about 220's @ .050 with .500 lift max.
If you build it with some piston to head quench, 9.5:1 is OK with 89...I can tell you there's not much difference between 89 and 91 when measured at the pump...
 
Im running a custom hyd roller with 230 and 520/530 lft on a 110 cl, there is no shortage of tq off idle up to 5500.
When you change everything about the bottom end it changes what a cam does on the low end that it normally wouldn't in a shorter stroke motor

He might want to do something with the gearing though, and he has 3 diff cams there, and seems to be leaning to the other.

Remember, it's a truck it needs to pull and when you get hung up in clay, you want that high rpm power....
 
Supershafts said:
Im running a custom hyd roller with 230 and 520/530 lft on a 110 cl, there is no shortage of tq off idle up to 5500.
When you change everything about the bottom end it changes what a cam does on the low end that it normally wouldn't in a shorter stroke motor

He might want to do something with the gearing though, and he has 3 diff cams there, and seems to be leaning to the other.

Remember, it's a truck it needs to pull and when you get hung up in clay, you want that high rpm power....
Click to expand...

He's not planning on gear change, and he didn't say anything about being stuck in mud...so with that in mind my advice is spot on. Does he have to take it...NO. He didn't say anything about hyd. roller cam either...
 
Well, opinions are like butt holes and I don't see a problem with ethier of you guys advice.

I'd run the roller myself, But then again, spending play internet money is easy.

IDK much about his states topogrophy (SP!?) but a 4X4 could be in mud or snow easy enuff. I'm in a little bit of snow 3 months a year. (And not a whole lot of it ethier.) Otherwise, My land is a paved Hwy.
 
Well thanks for the input there guys, I'd like to go full roller but I cant afford it. I figured since I don't plan on porting those heads w/ a lift no grater than .555 I figured a flat hyd would be fine for a street motor that wont see anything past 6k rpm. Same theory w/ the cast crank and I beam rods. I did however save myself $350 since I decided not to get a deep sump pan and hv oil pump.
I intend to buy a windage tray so, a deep sump just seems over kill for a 4x4. I figured the pan would be to vulnerable to rocks or large branches and such. I've heard the stock oil pump is good up to 6,500 rpm anyway, as a motor w/ good bearing clearance only needs 10psi per every 1000rpm. Doesn't a stock pump put out 60-65psi? Anything more would just rob power and potentialy suck the stock pan dry.


Hello ou812...
I think I've seen you mentioned on other forms a few times, are you the guy that runs Imm machine or engines or something like that. You seem to be well known for building and testing alot of sb mopars. If so thanks for taking the time to help as your advice will be greatly appreciated :).

Your not the first one to tell me my cam is too big... I've been hearing that by a few sources. When I talked to hughes about the whole aplication for a good hour and a half from the pan to aircleaner and radiator to exhaust. Thats the cam they ended up recomended me. I jumped on it because it was 2days b4 the $55 increase in cam prices.

I think I might return it for a 232/238 540/548 110lsa or maybe a 223/228 506/524 111lsa but not sure just yet. How bad would 12" of vac on the street w/ a 6k(lb) truck be. Will it just fall on its face off the line w/ a stock stall and hwy gears. Would it hurt to have a slightly higher stall like say 300-500rpm higher I don't want to go to loose as its just going to hurt milage and increase heat. I intend on replacing the stock 360 converter anyway as its externally balanced and I have no idea the condition or milage or even the stall spd. Will I be able to run 9.5:1 on 89 with either cam. I say 89 and not 87 cuz 89 is just as cheap as 87, I don't even see why they produce 87...


You cant tell me that 2 points of oct doesn't make a difference. My 1250cc sportster that runs 10.5:1 will ping like crazzy on 89, but is fine w/ 91 unless its above 95deg than I need oct booster too, wich I'm ok with as the bike gets 25mpg and is no slouch.
2strokes are the same way but alot more volatile, my buddy burned a hole right through is piston by running 87oct, that or his other option was to walk 50mi home. I think he learned his leason as he had to walk shortly after anyway. They can't charge an extra 20cents a gal for nothing. Didn't magnums run 9.5:1 factory???

Dustin
 
A deep pan and a 4x is a good thing.... more oil the better...

Unless this is a street truck, like a car, you never know how long you'll be on a 20 degree camber, or nose down....
Having a big pan that has another 5 qts more covering the p/u that a stock pan holds is a good thing.

I have never had a rock break my front axle and break or contact my pan....
Running higher comp can be done, i have just over 9.5, but again i have a custom piston and a modified chamber.
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
Well thanks for the input there guys, I'd like to go full roller but I cant afford it. I figured since I don't plan on porting those heads w/ a lift no grater than .555 I figured a flat hyd would be fine for a street motor that wont see anything past 6k rpm. Same theory w/ the cast crank and I beam rods. I did however save myself $350 since I decided not to get a deep sump pan and hv oil pump.
I intend to buy a windage tray so, a deep sump just seems over kill for a 4x4. I figured the pan would be to vulnerable to rocks or large branches and such. I've heard the stock oil pump is good up to 6,500 rpm anyway, as a motor w/ good bearing clearance only needs 10psi per every 1000rpm. Doesn't a stock pump put out 60-65psi? Anything more would just rob power and potentialy suck the stock pan dry.


Hello ou812...
I think I've seen you mentioned on other forms a few times, are you the guy that runs Imm machine or engines or something like that. You seem to be well known for building and testing alot of sb mopars. If so thanks for taking the time to help as your advice will be greatly appreciated :).

Your not the first one to tell me my cam is too big... I've been hearing that by a few sources. When I talked to hughes about the whole aplication for a good hour and a half from the pan to aircleaner and radiator to exhaust. Thats the cam they ended up recomended me. I jumped on it because it was 2days b4 the $55 increase in cam prices.

I think I might return it for a 232/238 540/548 110lsa or maybe a 223/228 506/524 111lsa but not sure just yet. How bad would 12" of vac on the street w/ a 6k(lb) truck be. Will it just fall on its face off the line w/ a stock stall and hwy gears. Would it hurt to have a slightly higher stall like say 300-500rpm higher I don't want to go to loose as its just going to hurt milage and increase heat. I intend on replacing the stock 360 converter anyway as its externally balanced and I have no idea the condition or milage or even the stall spd. Will I be able to run 9.5:1 on 89 with either cam. I say 89 and not 87 cuz 89 is just as cheap as 87, I don't even see why they produce 87...


You cant tell me that 2 points of oct doesn't make a difference. My 1250cc sportster that runs 10.5:1 will ping like crazzy on 89, but is fine w/ 91 unless its above 95deg than I need oct booster too, wich I'm ok with as the bike gets 25mpg and is no slouch.
2strokes are the same way but alot more volatile, my buddy burned a hole right through is piston by running 87oct, that or his other option was to walk 50mi home. I think he learned his leason as he had to walk shortly after anyway. They can't charge an extra 20cents a gal for nothing. Didn't magnums run 9.5:1 factory???

Dustin
Click to expand...

I did say "not much difference" at the pump not zero difference. Ofcourse when pushing compression octane is important...but not at 9.5:1. I thought we were talking about your stroker sb mopar not your Harley.
 
I think your heading in the right direction with this build 4X4, but i would change a few things just a little. The cam is a bit on the big side for what your after. So dial it back a bit. Hughes cams are ok, but I have made more torque with the Voodoo cams over any other of the same size(apples to apples). They just wrok. A 60403 will get you a ton of torque and still make good power, have a good idle. But if Hughes will do a swap for you(no extra $), I would go with their 2832 cam.

On the bottom end, Stay away from the Eagle I beam rods, spend a few $ more and go with the SCAT 4340 I beam rods. Much better rod, and lighter/stronger than the 5140 Eagle rods.

The RHS heads are going to be just right, and I would run the 1.92 intake valve. You dont gain much from the 2.02 unless you port the heads and the 1.92 is less shrouded. For the $ spent to go to a 2.02, you wont see any real gain. Put that money in the rods.

Stock Magnum 360's had 9 to 1 compression
 
ou812 said:
I did say "not much difference" at the pump not zero difference. Ofcourse when pushing compression octane is important...but not at 9.5:1. I thought we were talking about your stroker sb mopar not your Harley.
Click to expand...

I was just using the two as examples for octain sensitivity... I thought 9:1 is pushing it with open chambers running 87oct. I was told you can usually go a .5 a point higher with closed chambers because of the quench with dished pistons. You make it sound as if 9.5:1 is no big deal on 89oct for a 6k lb 4x4? Could I run 10:1 w/ 91oct? What cam do you suggest. Are you indeed Brian at Imm engines.
 
Supershafts said:
A deep pan and a 4x is a good thing.... more oil the better...

Unless this is a street truck, like a car, you never know how long you'll be on a 20 degree camber, or nose down....
Having a big pan that has another 5 qts more covering the p/u that a stock pan holds is a good thing.

I have never had a rock break my front axle and break or contact my pan....
Running higher comp can be done, i have just over 9.5, but again i have a custom piston and a modified chamber.
Click to expand...

Yea, I dont do alot of wheeling more of a street/hwy truck. I just figured a deep pan might be over kill for me.

What do you mean custom pistons/chambers... Isn't a 587 a open chamber head, Whats the quench on those pistons. What is quench exactly and how do you figure quench. What exactly goes into factoring maximume compression with minimume octain. Doesnt the cam play a roll with cyl pressure. What about elevation, temp, humidity ect. I live in ND btw and are winters get blustery and summers get blistery. We sit at 900ft w/ no hills or step grades.
 
MRL Performance said:
I think your heading in the right direction with this build 4X4, but i would change a few things just a little. The cam is a bit on the big side for what your after. So dial it back a bit. Hughes cams are ok, but I have made more torque with the Voodoo cams over any other of the same size(apples to apples). They just wrok. A 60403 will get you a ton of torque and still make good power, have a good idle. But if Hughes will do a swap for you(no extra $), I would go with their 2832 cam.

On the bottom end, Stay away from the Eagle I beam rods, spend a few $ more and go with the SCAT 4340 I beam rods. Much better rod, and lighter/stronger than the 5140 Eagle rods.

The RHS heads are going to be just right, and I would run the 1.92 intake valve. You dont gain much from the 2.02 unless you port the heads and the 1.92 is less shrouded. For the $ spent to go to a 2.02, you wont see any real gain. Put that money in the rods.

Stock Magnum 360's had 9 to 1 compression
Click to expand...

So comparing the hughes HEH2832AL and the Lanati 60403... It seems the hughes has slightly less duration but a lot more lift than the voodoo. Is this because of the .904 lifter size profile. For rods I plan on scatt I beams and forged crank. I was goint to go cast but I might have future plans for this motor that may accede the limits for cast. I'm thinking some W-2 heads w/ a 671 blower in the "LONG" future or possibly a Turbo or Nitrous.

For valves, hughes flowed both 1.92 and 2.02, the flow numbers for the mild porting is from IMM Engines chart.

1.92 flow in/ex ($975)
.100 71/??
.200 113/89
.300 167/140
.400 216/175
.500 246/177

2.02 in/ex ($1150)
.100 73/?? (+2)
.200 136/89 (+5)
.300 192/140 (+25)
.400 231/175 (+15)
.500 251/177 (+5)

2.02 mild port job ($1395)
.100 69/58 (-2/?)
.200 141/119 (+28/+30)
.300 197/161 (+30/+19)
.400 241/184 (+25/+9)
.500 267/193 (+16/+16)
.550 271/195 (+??/+??)

For the money I save in a deep sump pan, I can gain 25-30cfm on the ex/in bellow .400 lift. Maybe 2.02 by them selves may not be worth it but lightly ported the numbers look intriguing. What cam would be a good match w/ these flow numbers. Would my current 237/242 or 60404 lunati work well. Can I get a custom grind w/ the same lift/dur as the 37/42 but with 110-112 lsa for idle vac. 108 is a lil aggresive for the street is it not. Whats the minimum like 12-14 to be safe. Engine Anilyzer estimated the 37/42 to pull 12.6 and thats a icl of 105.
 
You have to look at the Whole cam, not just specs at .050". The Voodoo cams are more aggressive than the Hughes cams, and are Mopar .904" lifter only. The design of the Voodoo cams are second to none, and they just work. The Comp XE hi lift cams are very close to the Voodoo's and would be my second choice.
 
MRL Performance said:
The RHS heads are going to be just right, and I would run the 1.92 intake valve. You dont gain much from the 2.02 unless you port the heads and the 1.92 is less shrouded. For the $ spent to go to a 2.02, you wont see any real gain. Put that money in the rods.
Click to expand...

Are you sure about that? On my bench, going from 1.92 to 2.02 is worth over 20 cfm at .500 alone!
You'll choke that engine with a 1.92 valve...
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
Are you indeed Brian at Imm engines.
Click to expand...

That's the rumor...

I would stick to 9.5:1 and run a smaller cam...will have the correct cylinder pressure with the right cam.
My choice for a cam would be a custom grind on a tight lobe center...maybe around 226@ .050 on a 107lca.
JMO...
Brian
 
Good mention on looking at the entire am profile. Many miss it by just jumping over the numbers and how it is ground. Big differences await between cam grinders and where the put things and how it's done.

I like the lower centerline you make mention of Brian. I was thinking on a 108 and a approx. 6*-8* split, head performance dependent. (226 - 232 or 234) The engine is certainly large enuff.
 
Whatsup brian :) Why I didn't just look at your sig idk, I'm not to observant sorry for such a stupid question lol... Is it true that those LAX heads untouched w/ 2.02's fall off after .500 lift. I was talking w/ a guy that benched them and the exhaust was +/- 1cfm up to .550 as advertised, but the flow on the intake, fell on its face after .500. You have truth to this. In your opinion would a "mild" port job be worth the extra $420 for my current intentions. What cam would you suggest w/ 2.02's and what cam would you suggest mildly ported. Would my currnt 237/242 548/555 108lsa 105icl be fine for either or. What cam company do you suggest, does hughes have any advantage to were their cams are worth the extra 70-90 dollars. Whats your thoughts on a deep pan and hv oil pump...

For future upgrade, how would the I beam rods w/ these heads fully ported w/ 2.05's handle a 671 blower w/ 10+lbs of boost. Would an open chamber head be a better option. What would be the flow requirements. I know its getting WAY off track but I woud like to build this motor to handle future mods. Why not build it right the first time.

Thanks for the help Brian, sorry for so many question, I'll probably just call you mon or tues morning if you wont be too busy... That way I can ask 20 questions in 20min rather than 20days haha.

BTW, heres a link for the cam

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=U21hbGwgQmxvY2snTEEnIDI3MywzMTgsMzQwIGFuZCAzNjAgZW5naW5lcw==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=21857
 
With no stock in anyone opinions here, and just taking the first post into account..........

The cam is too big. While it may make torque, it will get slightly less that atrocious fuel economy.
The truck rear sump pan is more than enough, nice short pickup tube, unless you nose it into a hole with the back tires off the ground...............

I kinda went this route, and love it. IO used a 4" stroke 318, with ported 302 heads. Cant tell me that it doesn't make beautiful power. (And the smaller port, while hurting HP gives more low low end, and MPG, which, was important to me.
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
Whatsup brian :) Why I didn't just look at your sig idk, I'm not to observant sorry for such a stupid question lol... Is it true that those LAX heads untouched w/ 2.02's fall off after .500 lift. I was talking w/ a guy that benched them and the exhaust was +/- 1cfm up to .550 as advertised, but the flow on the intake, fell on its face after .500. You have truth to this. In your opinion would a "mild" port job be worth the extra $420 for my current intentions. What cam would you suggest w/ 2.02's and what cam would you suggest mildly ported. Would my currnt 237/242 548/555 108lsa 105icl be fine for either or. What cam company do you suggest, does hughes have any advantage to were their cams are worth the extra 70-90 dollars. Whats your thoughts on a deep pan and hv oil pump...

For future upgrade, how would the I beam rods w/ these heads fully ported w/ 2.05's handle a 671 blower w/ 10+lbs of boost. Would an open chamber head be a better option. What would be the flow requirements. I know its getting WAY off track but I woud like to build this motor to handle future mods. Why not build it right the first time.

Thanks for the help Brian, sorry for so many question, I'll probably just call you mon or tues morning if you wont be too busy... That way I can ask 20 questions in 20min rather than 20days haha.

BTW, heres a link for the cam

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/products.php?browse=category&level0=U21hbGwgQmxvY2snTEEnIDI3MywzMTgsMzQwIGFuZCAzNjAgZW5naW5lcw==&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=21857
Click to expand...

I would stick to 9.5:1 and run a smaller cam...will have the correct cylinder pressure with the right cam.
My choice for a cam would be a custom grind on a tight lobe center...maybe around 226@ .050 on a 107lca.
JMO...
 
dodgetkboy78 said:
With no stock in anyone opinions here, and just taking the first post into account..........

The cam is too big. While it may make torque, it will get slightly less that atrocious fuel economy.
The truck rear sump pan is more than enough, nice short pickup tube, unless you nose it into a hole with the back tires off the ground...............

I kinda went this route, and love it. IO used a 4" stroke 318, with ported 302 heads. Cant tell me that it doesn't make beautiful power. (And the smaller port, while hurting HP gives more low low end, and MPG, which, was important to me.
Click to expand...

This is why everything I do is per customer...some like GRUNT, some like upper rpm power, some like a mix of lowend and some upper rpm overrev....That stroker 318 combo I bet is fun at the hit of the throttle.
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
Yea, I dont do alot of wheeling more of a street/hwy truck. I just figured a deep pan might be over kill for me.

What do you mean custom pistons/chambers... Isn't a 587 a open chamber head, Whats the quench on those pistons. What is quench exactly and how do you figure quench. What exactly goes into factoring maximume compression with minimume octain. Doesnt the cam play a roll with cyl pressure. What about elevation, temp, humidity ect. I live in ND btw and are winters get blustery and summers get blistery. We sit at 900ft w/ no hills or step grades.
Click to expand...


So you can leave the factory pan then, i thought you were trying to build a do everything truck.

You are building a stroker, not a low comp 318, with a big port 360 head.... do not even consider less than a 2.02 valve... DO NOT....
The stroker is going to draw in way more air then that of a normal sb, and it is going to do it faster, so keep that in mind, what is BIG normally for a 318 or 360 is not big for a stroker. Like ou812 said with the cl i also like the 106 thru 110 cl, but i still say you can get into the 230's some


My head was milled, the pistons were ordered to fit that chamber, that chamber is now changed from the other work, so the pistons were further modified to fit that chamber since it was no longer factory, also a fire groove was added.

quench or squish is where you move the compressed gas, or as you compress you push or concentrate the gas to main part of the chamber, also creating a turbulence or swirl mix , the fire groove adds to the swirl by mechanically shooting gas at the tip of the plug, which also makes a channel to shoot the flame across the area.
Adding quench you can add comp and lower detonation chances as does fire groove

I live in NY, winter can be as low as 0 degrees, or if im upstate it can be lower, and summer can be as high as 100.
I built my truck to take me hunting without having to walk to get where i want, and to tow my cars and boats and be able to accel up hills whether it's 8k on the hitch or 16k...
I also have a speed and power issue which it also helps me with, making a heavy truck feel nimble is not as easy as a car..
 
ou812 said:
I would stick to 9.5:1 and run a smaller cam...will have the correct cylinder pressure with the right cam.
My choice for a cam would be a custom grind on a tight lobe center...maybe around 226@ .050 on a 107lca.
JMO...
Click to expand...

What should the cyl press be w/ 9.5:1? (My cam card suggests 170)

You suggest a 226 107lsa... what lift? Is that your recommended dur/lsa for a light port job or ootb w/ 2.02's?

Wont a cam w/ a lsa narrower than 110 be slouch on the street and pull little to no vac @ idle?

Whats the min vac for pwr brks and decent idle signal?(I've been told 12"-14"). Idk much about cam grind geometry. What other numbers do i look at other than dur/lift/lsa/icl?

What cam company should I go with, comp,crane,lunati,hughes? Do comp/crane take account for the .904 lifter.

The flow numbers on your website are after a light port job correct?

What can they flow fully ported?

Whats the limitations with Scatt's I beam rods, can they handle 600-650hp?

Is their a substantially negative weight increase between I rods and a cast crank and H rods and a forged crank that I should consider if I'm not REALLY serious with future F/I or bottle. Now would be the time to decide.

After listening to this beast, I think a blower will definitely be in the future. It would most likely be in duster/scamp or a satellite by this time. Then again I do have a spare hood to cut up if it wouldn't fit under my R/T hood :grin:. It's probably equivalent to a 4"-5" cowl.


[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zk1cxzHe8nY"]YouTube - Blown & Bad Plymouth '72 Duster[/ame]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ks038GJdaII&feature=channel"]YouTube - 1972 Plymouth Duster Blown 360[/ame]
 
mopar4x4stroker said:
What should the cyl press be w/ 9.5:1? (My cam card suggests 170)

You suggest a 226 107lsa... what lift? Is that your recommended dur/lsa for a light port job or ootb w/ 2.02's?

Wont a cam w/ a lsa narrower than 110 be slouch on the street and pull little to no vac @ idle?

Whats the min vac for pwr brks and decent idle signal?(I've been told 12"-14"). Idk much about cam grind geometry. What other numbers do i look at other than dur/lift/lsa/icl?

What cam company should I go with, comp,crane,lunati,hughes? Do comp/crane take account for the .904 lifter.

The flow numbers on your website are after a light port job correct?

What can they flow fully ported?

Whats the limitations with Scatt's I beam rods, can they handle 600-650hp?

Is their a substantially negative weight increase between I rods and a cast crank and H rods and a forged crank that I should consider if I'm not REALLY serious with future F/I or bottle. Now would be the time to decide.

After listening to this beast, I think a blower will definitely be in the future. It would most likely be in duster/scamp or a satellite by this time. Then again I do have a spare hood to cut up if it wouldn't fit under my R/T hood :grin:. It's probably equivalent to a 4"-5" cowl.
Click to expand...

170-175 cyl. psi would be ideal. My heads get opened up to 2.02 valve and the cut leaves a little ledge in the bowl. I blend this away...that's it. I don't think you'd see much more power down low with additional porting.
The I beams will handle 650HP no problem. They are much lighter than an H beam. Cast crank is all you need. I use comp cams, I spec the lobes myself.
Before I spec a cam I would need all of your info. Tight lca hits very hard early and pulls like a freight train.
You'll have at least 14" of vacume with that cam...but I strongly recommend that you add a vacume canister to eliminate any chance of low vacume at the brake booster. They are small and easy to mount.
If you decide to have me spec the cam, just PM or email me all of your info and I'll run the cam specs I decide on by you before I order it. You will not be disappointed I assure you of that.
The specs I shot at you were just from the hip...actuall specs will probably vary slightly.
Brian
 
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