408 Build Thread

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I went and paid Doc the money that I owed him for the block work.

The next step will be to balance the rotating assembly. It could run anywhere from $200 if it's close, to $500 if needs a lot of Mallory metal.

What did it run you for the block work and what did that include?

Shop I'm going with wants $175 to balance rotating assembly plus any extras for mallory.
 
PM sent on the block prices.

Even though things are kind of on hold right now while my wife tries to find employment, I've been selling off a few extra parts that I had laying around just so I could have a little bit of playing around money.

Today a buddy and I went to a automotive swap meet in Sedalia, MO. I saw a guy selling a complete six pack set up for a big block, so I walked over to take a look. Turns out he had a set of BRAND NEW polished, ceramic coated TTI step headers for sale also. He was asking $500 for them. We talked for awhile and then I told him we would check back. My buddy and I immediately counted our money and came up with $374 between the two of us. We went back and made the guy the offer, and he reluctantly agreed! These are $710 plus shipping. Score!

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I knew these headers are nice pieces, but until you see them in person you don't get a full comprehension of how nice. The flanges are real thick, the finish looks great. Can't wait to get back to this build!
 
Same one I have on my 408. They fit great, and I would have to say to date they are the easiest header Ive put on a car before. But I had the motor out and drop it in around the headers tied to the inner fenders. Over the years they do show sign of age with slight rust in some spots. I like my ride height low and sometime scrap the bottom of the collectors on the higher speed bumps and getting it on and off a trailer.
 
I'm going to keep doing some little things while the wife is still unemployed to try and keep the ball rolling on my engine swap. One thing that has always bugged me since I've owned the car is the way that the alternator brackets and pulleys were all pieced together with hardware store nuts and bolts. Here's a pic of the way it looks now.

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I had a single groove crank pulley that was on the used crate motor that I bought, so I needed a singe water pump pulley to match. After starting a thread and looking on Ebay, I just bit the bullet and bought a new one from BPE. While I had them on the phone I bought the correct alternator kit with all new bolts, brackets and spacers.

I also bought a new alternator from Summit with a single groove pulley. It's a 100 amp from Tuff Stuff but uses the existing voltage regulator. It's powder coated black so that should match the rest of the engine pretty well!

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That should compliment your car nicely, Brian. I'm still blown away on the header deal!
 
you call that an headers dill

you should say headers still

man what a luck you hade 374 $$ for tti headers:prayer::cheers::notworth:
 
That should compliment your car nicely, Brian. I'm still blown away on the header deal!


you call that an headers dill

you should say headers still

man what a luck you hade 374 $$ for tti headers:prayer::cheers::notworth:

I spend a lot of time walking swap meets. Some times I find deals, most of the time I go home empty handed. I always say, the bargains aren't going to come find you!
 
I spent a few hours working on the Dart with my 17 year old daughter this weekend and we got a quite a bit done. Friday night we removed the crappy non working aftermarket gauges that have been in the car since I got it and replaced it with these from Auto Gage. They are cheap mechanical gauges but they work and have nice big faces that my old eyes can read with a quick glance.

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We also cleaned up the front the engine as promised by throwing all of those hardware store nuts and spacers away, and we replaced them with the correct brackets. New alternator, belt, and pulleys. These parts are just being mocked up on the 340 and will all be swapped over to the 408 when the time comes.

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We drove it around yesterday to make sure everything was alright and on a 80 degree day, the temperature never climbed above 175?!? The thermostat is new, but I wonder if it's stuck open. I'm not complaining but it's something that's got me wondering. The previous owner stuck a big radiator in there when he was running a big block and over heating has never been an issue. The fan clutch is so close to the radiator that I was barely able to force the belt between the two.
 
Its great read threads on little tricks people find on power and reliability for the Mag 360. I’ve also gone with a SCAT internally balanced rotating assembly, forged 4” crank, H-beams & Diamond dished pistons. Looking forward in hearing builds and advice, since the prep & painting of my Dart is taking most of my time and money… well mostly the money! For that, I’m going to use the original cast heads for now, and with a little P&P work they should be ok. Just something worries me about changing over to performance aluminum ones. I have heard about fitting problems between the intake and headers (when bought, I want to keep) when swaping the Magnum heads. So wasting $$$ on parts I can’t transfer is a concern.

Anyway, happy to hear others making Big 408 Power, hopefully I’ll have the same success in the spring.

OH, funny thing how I came by the engine... A friend of mine works as a supervisory inspector for a development company. That job he was the site supervisor, and was looking thru an out building for hazmat stuff left behind from a soon to be company-X dealership being torn down (which the development company NOW owned). He found about 50 blue engine crates stacked up, so he looked...on the bottom… in the corner…. guess what! He asked, and was told by a supervising company –X manager, he can have anything he wanted left…. So on the following Monday morning, guess what! Being a ferrrd man he sold me the crate. No kidding aside, "Sold Me!" It was an un-fired crate engine missing the timing chain cover, oil pump, intake, valve covers, balancer & oil pan.

Not too bad, a new 1994 360 Magnum engine looking for a home.

 
Here's a little update. I listed the worn out 340 engine that's in the car now on Craigslist just to judge if there was any local interest in it. I wrote a pretty good description in the ad and even put a video of the engine running. I was asking $1000 for the long block including the X heads with all of the accessories staying with me for the new engine. I had a few emails but nothing serious.

Yesterday a guy called and wanted to know if he could come over after work today and see it run for himself, so we agreed to meet at four. He liked what he saw and we agreed at $850 for the long block including the balancer and torque convertor (someone stuck a cast crank in it at some point). He wrote me a check to hold the engine and said to call him when it's pulled and he will bring me the full amount in CASH.

My current plans are to pull the engine out the weekend on Nov 9-10th. Then I can get started on detailing out the engine compartment. Between the money from selling the engine and what I've been able to save on my own, I should have enough to get my engine out of the machine shop! I will still have to save for a new convertor and few other misc pieces, but I can definitely move forward with the build!!
 
what color you going to paint it ? I am thinking mine will be yellow on the block , black on the rsh heads id did got the 2.02valves I love the rhs flow # i'll give that up for a little weight , with 525 lift 303/297 yellow on the timing cover and water pump and black on the pullies ,clear the m1,the holley is light green but covered with chrome air cleaner crome wire hiders or yellow wires and the red msd box, and distrib , my car is blue and I don't know how to use color app. so im hoping it will look good, like the fact you already have some tire room im stuck at tranny now , motor done next week , get your second set of tires ready now lol G/L
 
my 340 sold 1 day after I put it on here and it hit craigs list for 1,250.00 to pay for headers on the earley A and new32 stall torquenverter , I scored a really nice radiator from a friend of my bro and law so now tranny cash with the rest of sell of parts ,wish I new some 1 who needed parts from my 65 cuda parts car cause its going squish for 300.00$but I will keep the doors , but like you said its build time ,I waited long enough ,a lot of pbjs and bologna sandwiches .
 
The car is black so the engine compartment is black. I wanted to paint the block black and bolt all the aluminum accessories to it. Heads, intake, valve covers and TTI's will all be natural silver color. Maybe shoot some clear over them to keep them clean.

I hear ya about selling parts to raise money. For the last six months I've been selling anything that wasn't directly needed for the build. I was surprised how many extra parts I had accumulated over the years. Then I started cleaning the garage, selling old bicycles etc. This was great because now I have more room to move the engine hoist around out there!!
 
Friday was pay day and I received a 10% off code from Summit, so I did a little shopping! Bought a set of MSD wires and Blaster 3 coil. I figured since I already had the MSD distributor I would keep it all the same. I also picked up several smaller parts that we needed also, exhaust gaskets, valve cover grommets, etc.

The plan is to pull everything I can off of the engine next Friday night. I would like to get the radiator, all accessories, headers, and transmission completely disconnected. My buddy is coming over Saturday with his engine hoist and we should have the old engine out in a hour or so. At least that is the plan...
 
Brian is the expert I would go with what he says.

The advantage of beehive springs is a retainer that is smaller and weighs less and lighter spring pressure because the beehive shape dampens harmonics so less spring pressure is needed. More clearance between rocker and retainer too. But if you are running the Comp Pro Magnum rockers they don't need the extra clearance. So there are advantages just that clearance is not one of them in your case.

The advantage and reason to use beehive springs are

1. they use a wound design and that allows them to run and deal with the frequencies better, but this is a issue at higher sustained rpms, which in this case aren't needed and why the person on the ph said what they did.

2. the ovate vs the conical allow less psi to do the same work, but we're talking like 550 psi vs 510 psi, not like its 550 psi vs 300 psi, it doesn't allow for that much less spring psi so it's not earth shattering spring pressure savings.

3. smaller retainer for weight comes as a secondary by it's design

4. they're worse if you break one, breaking a regular spring and you very well may not lose the valve, break a beehive and you're losing the valve

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I would talk to someone who has already built a few strokers and get advice from them about parts. Every parts guy I have ever talked to from a manufacter gave me bad parts. I went to jegs in colombus to buy my intake and carb. I was told to go with the performer intake and a 600 cfm in carb. Then I told the guy I wanted it to be a strip/street car so he said to go with a single plain intake. At that point I walked away and just ordered the parts.


The 2nd guy you walked away from knew what he was talking about.

You don't build a deep breathing stroker and use factory small stuff, well you do when you want it to perform like crap.

When you build a stroker you need to walk away from what you think you know and forget EVERYTHING about the motors old design , because it is no longer ANYTHING 340 like or 360 like.

1st thing is to get BIG heads even for a street car, ports need to be much larger in the 200cc area and flow in the 290+.

2nd cams need to be starting in the 240@50 area

3rd intakes need to be large, and open intakes aren't a issue for a stroker with a 1.5 RR, they aren't lazy down low like a 1.8 RR 18, 40 and although somewhat better 1.7 60 still not a 1.5


PISTON speed is key, and everyone ignores RR and fuks up every stroker using all the wrong stuff, because they THINK they know and have no clue.

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I appreciate your input, but this thread is about my stroker build, not what you think other people should do with theirs. If you want to critique my build, have at it, but please don't turn this thread into a pissing match with other members.
 
Pissing match, i didn't comment on the mis-information you posted, i quoted who i was referring to and the mis-information he walked away from with plenty of WHY which is helpful to ANYONE who may see this in the future, even you.
 
I took the Dart for one last spin yesterday. Put some fuel stabilizer and fresh gas in the tank, then took her home and put her in her spot in the garage. Then I started tearing **** apart! I got everything torn off the top of the engine and will start underneath on Friday night after work. There's just something about working on a car in the garage, listening to the radio and drinking a cold beer or two. Here's a pic of the progress.

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The plan is now to pull the engine on Sunday afternoon and immediately transfer it to it's new owner who's coming over with the cash. That money will go towards what I still owe the machine shop on the new engine. Until I can come up with the rest of that money, there is still plenty to do under the hood that won't cost me a ton. Lots of cleaning, sanding, taping etc...
 
Go man go,lol!.There is a inner peace with a good radio station,some brew,and wrenching. It just feels right.
 
I got a lot done today. Everything connected to the engine and transmission has been disconnected and it's just sitting in there on the mounts with the nuts already removed. My buddy Adam will be over tomorrow in the morning to help me pull it. He's bringing the cherry picker and this...

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Today while watching Adam clean his garage, he said he had this table that was left over from the garage sale and he didn't know what he was going to do with it? It's one inch thick MDF with a laminated top, and it has cast iron legs. This thing is heavy duty! He donated it to the cause and will be bringing it over in the morning.

The plan for tomorrow is to separate the engine from the transmission and set the trans on this thick cardboard box that I got from work, and then set the table over the top. The transmission has been recently rebuilt and just needs to be cleaned and stored until everything goes back together.

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I'll post some more pics tomorrow after the engine is out.
 
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