408 crank?

-
mopar420

mopar420

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2010
Messages
34
Reaction score
0
Location
Tennille Ga
I was working with proformance unlimited on building me a short block so it would be ready when i got back to the states but they sent me the invoice and it has tha cast steel crank in it and i wanted a forged steel crank! Does anyone know how much power u can run on a cast steel eagle crank! im not to happy whit a cast crank to be honest just wondering what ur thought are?
 
They are good up to low/mid 500 horse motors. For a healthy street motor, it will be fine. IMHO anything more than 500, I would go forged.
 
I ordered mine from scat. And I didn't want the castcrank either but they said for what I wanted to do(410 stroker a little over 500hp) . this crank can handle up to 600 ponies. No problem. Now im not sure about eagle cranks I haven't heard of many using they're cranks. . Heard they are defective( I repeat so I've heard). Hope this helps a little
 
thamks for the replys well mine is goin to be well over 600 hp when its done cause of the forced induction im not sure exactly what to do if they wont put o forged crank in it i might just not use there engine at all all i know to do is get the motor and change the crank out with either a scat of K1 thats my only option to having the motor there when i get home! with the forced induction and the set up bob a the super charger store said i can go up to 800 hp with it so got to have forged!
 
Your Magic Words "Forced Induction" = "Forged Crank" Everything should be Forged in that Engine in my opinion.

Get it fixed now or you will have a huge weak link and the possibility of everything in that engine becoming shrapnel if it lets loose!
 
Usually when I ask for a certain part and I,m paying,I expect to get what I asked for and pay for.I say tell them to go forged or I don,t want the product.Nothing worse than someone selling you something you didn,t ask for.Good luck.I have a forged Eagle crank with H-beams in my 408,I,ll let you know how it works next month.
 
Forced induction changes things a bunch. If it were naturally aspirated 550 hp or less I'd say you'd be ok but I wouldn't even think of using a cast crank for what your doing. JMHO

BTW: As far as Eagle cranks being defective, I heard that too after buying one so I had my machinist check mine over real good and he said it is fine. He magnafluxed it, checked it for indexing, checked for straightness, and checked the journal sizes. No problem at all. All it takes a 2 or 3 with a problem and it's spread like wildfire and everybody gets worried (like I did). For what it's worth he said he hasn't had one bad Eagle crank.
 
I had the same done to my Eagle crank before installing fishy68,my builder said it was fine.He also mentioned if there was a problem Eagle would warranty it,not so with Scat.
 
you have to insist on forged with that build buddy...
 
I've used a few of the Eagles. I think for a mild or "under 500hp" build they are ok. But for what you're doing, you should be using a forged crank (I'd go Callies myself), a good set fo rods, and good pistons. You cannot skimp on a boosted engine. Well, not the second time you assemble it anyway...
 
There's a limit to the stock block IMO of 500-550 hp before the bottom end starts cap walking. With a 4 bolt race block and forced induction 550-700 hp. Above that durability and longevity are the factors. To spend the bucks to go all forged on a stock bottom end is a waste of money. When it lets go (and it will) the expensive parts usually get trashed. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY! I'LL BE GLAD TO SEE YOU HOME!!!
 
75Sport said:
There's a limit to the stock block IMO of 500-550 hp before the bottom end starts cap walking. With a 4 bolt race block and forced induction 550-700 hp. Above that durability and longevity are the factors. To spend the bucks to go all forged on a stock bottom end is a waste of money. When it lets go (and it will) the expensive parts usually get trashed. THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE TO OUR COUNTRY! I'LL BE GLAD TO SEE YOU HOME!!!
Click to expand...

Hard blocking or partial hard blocking will help when doing the boosted higher horsepower builds with a stock block right?? I know there is a limit to that also....
 
Mad Dart said:
Hard blocking or partial hard blocking will help when doing the boosted higher horsepower builds with a stock block right?? I know there is a limit to that also....
Click to expand...

Yes for sure along with a girdle. It's just that I've seen folks sold combinations that were destined to fail just based on asking too much from a stock bottom end. In nearly all cases it's the block that failed not the forged crank. Of course you always hear of one or two lucky individuals that can run over 500 hp and a shot of nitrous and get two or three seasons out of a stock block stroker. There are very few builders that will produce high hp short blocks with any kind of a warranty. It's the old saying "speed costs money son, how fast do you want to go?"
 
Yes a Girdle is a good addition also. I have a Hughes Girdle on my 410 with all forged internals.........was gunna hit it with some Juice but the damn thing is fast enough on the street without it.......movin some pavement! Smokin new Vettes, Camaro's, Mustangs and the new Mopar gang of cars no problem.......hand their azzzzzzzz to em' everytime!
 
Mad Dart said:
Yes a Girdle is a good addition also. I have a Hughes Girdle on my 410 with all forged internals.........was gunna hit it with some Juice but the damn thing is fast enough on the street without it.......movin some pavement! Smokin new Vettes, Camaro's, Mustangs and the new Mopar gang of cars no problem.......hand their azzzzzzzz to em' everytime!
Click to expand...

Ya know you hit the nail on the head. It typically takes 500 hp to put a 3000 Duster or Dart in the 12's. That's fast no matter where you are. If you can have 525-550 reliable hp there's no a lot on the street you can't whip. I'm not promoting street racing of any kind.
 
ou812 "Brian at IMM Engines" Just built a 408 pump gas engine that runs High 10's in a Duster! 485 hp and around 520tq If I remember correctly. Pretty mild build but the dang thing gets with it!
 
Cast anything is asking for trouble.

Are you saving THAT much money on a finished motor? What, $200?

What if it's the part that fails? Then how much are you saving?

You'll need a new hood too, when it goes. Just sayin'... cheap insurance.
 
Well thankns for all the replys i know there is a limit on the block by far! but im not goin to be turning this thing really hard very often! But im goin with main support system and i got the forged crank issue fixed my buddy ran around 700 hp on his 340 for years with the juice and a 4 speed but im goin to keep my finger crossed that it holds together if it donr then im goin to regroup buy a race bkock and build a small block 426 nest this engine is really a test for me to see how i like the forced in duction way of life ive been running the juice for a while but want to try new things im building a 72 to put a race small block in in the future around a year from now if this engine hold true then ill put the super charger on it changed the pistons in this motor and turn it into a every day driver!
 
but on the other hand had anyone did a 4 bolt main upgrade on there 360 block i can get the kits at a pretty good price!
 
70 Duster with 3.55 sure 489, braced, super stocks, konis, cal-trax, no tires yet.
Stock bench seats and lap belts. Have some weight to lose, but I'll work out.

Stage 4 Erson solid roller forged 408 with ported 63cc eddy's 850 demon annular,
just hooking up oiling to it now. Like a dummy I put in the main studs and didn't
realize they would BLOCK the wet sump oil pump! Anybody know about this?

I'm going to stick with wet sump for now... don't have an extra grand just for dry.
What do you do, get a regular ARP bolt and replace that single stud?

I looked at grinding down the excess but it would take about 3/16 into the cap nut.
Do they make a special pump to 'go around' the stud?

What do folks do? I'm a big block guy, this is my first small build.
 
I realize this is the wrong thread but I figured he got his question answered... and the answers looked pretty good.
 
"but on the other hand had anyone did a 4 bolt main upgrade on there 360 block i can get the kits at a pretty good price!"

Did you factor in the machining costs? What if your block is defective, got a spare?
 
you need a 12 nut and have to grind it down 'stud n all about .025 into the nut, as in down to where you're taken .025 off the nut.

Doesn't this lose a couple threads on your highly loaded ARP nut cap?

Is this how everybody does it? Seems to me losing threads, even 1-2, is bad and worth avoiding if possible.

Should I put a tiny relief divot into the pump housing? That could save a thread maybe.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top