408 Stroker Build / Intake Question

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I would NOT use the cast crank for boosted applications. For that, if it were my build, you would have a Callies Dragonslayer in it. The cheap cranks are fine for moderate mixed use builds. They are not indestructable. I think the Scat/MP cast units are a little better than theEagles. They've been around longer and proven reliable. I know several over 600hp with NO2 that live fine. The Eagles were mde to undercut that price tag. As power levels are expected to eclipse 500hp I would expect to get a better crank. In terms of inish quality... Everything has a spec. Cheaper cranks tend to use the whole range, and many performance builders want exact so they have them fixed. Others are fine using something that is within factory tolerances and for their use they will be fine. The better the machining in terms of the block and all other parts, the more any crank can take without expiring. This is one reason I am so anal about what gets done and how. I mic the journals and if I see an issue it will get fixed. The last two Eagles I used didnt need anything by my experience, but they were not perfect. The last Callies I used was dead on perfect, zero taper, and identical to the .0001 dimensionally. Cheap cranks simply are not that well done. That's why they are cheap.
 
SassyGrassScamp said:
I have a clean '71 360 block and just purchased a set of bare J heads....I plan stroking to a 408 and installing 2.02/1.60 valves with possibly a roller set up....

I'm starting to collect parts as the budget dictates and am looking for ideas on a unique single 4bbl intake....What do you guys think might be a good choice for an intake that I can port match to my J heads....I plan on opening these heads up to suck some air. I WANT HOSEPOWER. (and torque too)!

TIA.
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well depending on how large of a cam you go with. IMO don't think a single 4 will get the HORSEPOWER (and torque) you want.
I'd go with a T-Ram and T-Ram specific carbs. you can get 'em (trams) cheap enuff cause nobody wants them.
 
Moparmal said:
What RPM does boost start, and where does it start maing max boost?
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The boost starts low... I'm not certain, but it seems like 2 or 3 pounds, by 1,800 rpm. By 2,700, it's making about 6 pounds, and climbs to 10 pounds by about 3,800...

It drops off to about 7 or 8 pounds at about 5,200 (dunno why) and stays there unto the redline (6,000.)

Hope this helps. The blower and Professional Performance intake, plus deaders over 340 cast manifolds raised my RW HP from 260 to 445.

That knocked nearly a full second off my eighth-mile times, and raised my eighth-mile MPH from 80 to 93+...

Hope this helps...
 
moper said:
I would NOT use the cast crank for boosted applications. For that, if it were my build, you would have a Callies Dragonslayer in it. The cheap cranks are fine for moderate mixed use builds. They are not indestructable. I think the Scat/MP cast units are a little better than theEagles. They've been around longer and proven reliable. I know several over 600hp with NO2 that live fine. The Eagles were mde to undercut that price tag. As power levels are expected to eclipse 500hp I would expect to get a better crank. In terms of inish quality... Everything has a spec. Cheaper cranks tend to use the whole range, and many performance builders want exact so they have them fixed. Others are fine using something that is within factory tolerances and for their use they will be fine. The better the machining in terms of the block and all other parts, the more any crank can take without expiring. This is one reason I am so anal about what gets done and how. I mic the journals and if I see an issue it will get fixed. The last two Eagles I used didnt need anything by my experience, but they were not perfect. The last Callies I used was dead on perfect, zero taper, and identical to the .0001 dimensionally. Cheap cranks simply are not that well done. That's why they are cheap.
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Thanks for all that good info!!! I will very likely take your advice and spend my stroker money elsewhere....

I appreciate the time you took to write that!
 
I run a Scat cast crank in my engine and had the shop turn it 10/10 to get rid of run out and other imperfections. The shop said I could have used it out of the box but it would not have been as durable or run as smooth as a perfect crank. Imperfect cranks put a lot of stress on the rotating assembly which is something you do not want. All cranks should be looked over by a competent shop prior to installation.
 
DODGESTRIKE said:
what cam and cr on that 11.60 combo ?
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It was an Ultradyne, flat tappet solid lifter, custom ground nitrous cam. I tried a bunch of different cams and intakes to see what the difference was and the combo that ran 11.60s was the torker 340 and the ultradyne. The Specs on the cam were 246 degrees at .050 on the intake and exhaust. 540 lift and had a 112 LSA. The compression was 11.11 to 1. This motor ran happily on 91 octane found here in California. I tried an air gap and changed nothing else and the car dropped off 2 tenths and 2 mph roughly. I think single planes get a bad rap just like rectangle port heads on chebbies do or even the ford clevelands (which I own one of each). I drove this car daily on the street for 2 years and loved it. I will admit that the weather here is mild with maybe 45 degree temps on winter mornings. Obviously I didnt run a choke and I would move up a size in squirters to make cold driveability better. I really had no problem driving it on the street. I did try the Victor 340 (?) I dont remember but its the old style victor with the small ports. The car really slowed down which was no surprise since it was meant to be ported. I am looking to try the new victor edelbrock came out with. So theres my opinion and with that and $3.50 you can go out and buy a starbucks coffee with it.
 
Sassy,
Im going to use EDys and let Ryan at Shady Dell do the port work. Hes getting better numbers out of them than M1 heads out of the box and you can use all the regular 340/360 stuff.
Andrew
just my .02





AS CAST OUT OF BOX

LIFT------IN/EX
.100"----67.0/N/A
.200"--128.3/105.2
.300"--184.5/139.0
.400"--224.6/163.8
.450"--239.4/171.8
.500"--249.4/176.6
.550"--259.4/179.4
.600"--264.9/182.8
.650"--267.3/183.2
.700"--267.3/183.8

STAGE 3 PORT WORK

LIFT------IN/EX
.100"----77.6/N/A
.200"--144.9/112.2
.300"--204.3/151.8
.400"--255.3/189.8
.450"--276.0/199.1
.500"--286.0/201.9
.550"--292.2/206.3
.600"--297.4/208.4
.650"--297.4/209.8
.700"--297.4/211.1

All #'s at 28" of H20.
Ported head was flowed with 2.02" valve with 30 degree back cut on intake valve, and no flow tube on exhaust.


For more information about Edelbrock cylinder head porting email [email protected]​
 
I think those are the std LA RPMS. The two sets I've been associated with those numbers were backed up within 6-8cfm by other benches. And the engines make the numbers.
 
moper said:
I think those are the std LA RPMS. The two sets I've been associated with those numbers were backed up within 6-8cfm by other benches. And the engines make the numbers.
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RPMs eh? Not to shabby for eddies lol. got any pics of the chambers on those rpm heads?
 
Those numbers are off the Shady Dell website. There are pics there of the chambers but the work doesnt do much for the plain chamber aside from some smoothing. I kind of wish they could have used heart shapes.
 
I have Shady Dell Stage 2 ported Edelbrocks on my stroker and the intake flows 280 @ .550" lift according to the flow sheet I received. I went with the Edelbrocks because of the weight savings and the fact they are so commonly used that any issues could easily be resolved. Plus the fact they met my performance objectives and fit within my budget. Ryan did tell me I wouldn't make any additional power over 6,000 rpms with the 4" crank which was fine with me.
 
ILLDuster74 said:
Ok about the stroker cranks, can you reuse your rods? I have partial rebuilt 360 but would like to stroke it with a 4.00" crank.
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You can use your stock rods but you will have to notch your block so the rod bolts will clear. If you go with Scat I-beams you won't have to clearance your block plus they are lighter and stronger then stock rods.
 
We dont use the Pro Products Cross wind anymore. They have some other issues, like the intake bolt surface is not cast at the same angle as the heads causing a mismatch and not allowing the the bolts to seat right.

Plus Edelbrock as addressed the issue of the casting problem. I taked to the head guy in the casting plant, sent him 3 intakes that were wrong, now they are acceptable. And still the best intake upto 6700rpm. The AG makes more HP/tq.
 
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