408 Stroker Build / Intake Question

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Saasygrass,if you need any help with your stroker combo just p.m. me..i'll be glad to assist in any way...:-D
 
Sassygrass,

I have some experience with the J's. I ran them on my 70 Swinger. They had 2.02 and 1.60's in them and I hand ported them myself which is the first time I ever ported heads. I had them flowed and at 28 inches they flowed 255cfm on the intake and 190 cfm exhaust. These heads were on my pump gas 360 and it made 490hp at 6300 and 460tq at 5200. My car would boil my 275dr at easy from a roll and would run 11.60's at 115 mph in a 3400 pound car. I ran a torker 340 single plane with a 750dp holley. I hope this helps.
 
turbodart68 said:
Sassygrass,

I have some experience with the J's. I ran them on my 70 Swinger. They had 2.02 and 1.60's in them and I hand ported them myself which is the first time I ever ported heads. I had them flowed and at 28 inches they flowed 255cfm on the intake and 190 cfm exhaust. These heads were on my pump gas 360 and it made 490hp at 6300 and 460tq at 5200. My car would boil my 275dr at easy from a roll and would run 11.60's at 115 mph in a 3400 pound car. I ran a torker 340 single plane with a 750dp holley. I hope this helps.
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what cam and cr on that 11.60 combo ?
 
The Crosswind has issues and i wont use another. They are not an Air Gap...lol. For what you want, I'd go with the RPM or Air Gap.
 
moper said:
The Crosswind has issues and i wont use another. They are not an Air Gap...lol. For what you want, I'd go with the RPM or Air Gap.
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Moper; I value your opinion highly...

What kind of "issues?"

Mine hasn't self-destructed, so far; what should I look out for? I'm stuffing ten pounds of boost into my 360 through it.... with no APPARENT problems, but now you have me worried.

Any information will be appreciated!!!:read2:
 
Bill, if I may, I beileve Moper was making ref. to past issues with port alignment and I think there was a few people that have said something about the intake not bolting up so easy.

I'll let Moper answer from here if I didn't take the words outta his mouth.
 
And, while we're talking 4" cranks, is there any NEW "news" about the Eagle cast cranks?

I have one still in the box that I bought about a year ago, but after all the rumors of them breaking, in service, I've been thinking twice about installing it, especially, running 10 pounds of boost.

Any new developments on that front?
 
The Pro Products was an agreed on try a year ago. It looked "ok". The casting was porous, it had a lot of pinholes and such. Not unknown to Edelbrock, but much less common with them. The aluminum used was definately more brittle. The holes were tapped poorly. I re-tapped them all to get things to go in easy by hand. he plugs they supplied for the non-used Magnum bolts I replaced with allen head pipe plugs because the plugs supplied were cracking the bosses when I was trying to tap them in. The gasket alignment wasn't bad for this one. Bolt hole alignment was a minor issue. And I am very careful how my manifolds fit. These heads had been cut properly. It eas the intake holes that were off. Once installed, it ran ok but there was a coolant seepage from the rear area near the head's water cross over passage (blocked by the manifold). I have never had a leak there. It was resealed and didnt stop. So the manifold was replaced with an Air Gap and it's been fine ever since. I think the intake was porous back there. In any event, the same car, same tuner, later.. ended up having to re-tune and go up 3 jet sizes to get the plugs to read properly afterwords. I believe it's because the RPM just moved a bunch more air. And after, the car averaged 17mpg in mixed driving... 422", 904, 3.23s in an E body. So I dont think it was a matter of having to go overrich to make it work. The RPM was just much better. The intake ports are smaller and longer in the Crosswind. And the plenum a hair smaller... At least going by my eye. For me, there were and are otehr places to save the $80 or whatever the difference is. I know DGC333 has a good one. Some have good results. I wasnt thrilled enough to use one again.
 
anyone ever used a Chinese hack saw blade ,drill bit or chinese Tap?? you get exactly what you pay for!
 
I really DO appreciate all that good information. If I ever have any problems out of this Chinese Blue Light Special, I'll definitely replace it, but not with an Air Gap; I want to try a single plane next time.

I have only seen the Mopar performance single plane manifolds, but you recommend the Eddys. What is wrong with the M-P single-plane manifold (bearing in mind, it's going on a 10-pound boost engine)???

Also, I asked about the Eagle 4"stroke, cast cranks, as to whether there's been any new information about the fact that some were known to be cracking and breaking, in use.

I have one, but if it's just going to break, I'd just as soon stay with the 360 crank I have,

What's your opinion???
 
Bill - all i can tell you is my Eagle needed an index grind, the main journals were out also, and the counter weights needed a real clean up, although I have also heard some were cracking.
 
Bill Dedman said:
Also, I asked about the Eagle 4"stroke, cast cranks, as to whether there's been any new information about the fact that some were known to be cracking and breaking, in use.

I have one, but if it's just going to break, I'd just as soon stay with the 360 crank I have,

What's your opinion???
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Hi Bill,
I just had an engine built for my Barracuda. When looking into doing a 360/408 (I eventually decided on a 318 ) two different machine shops told me that Eagle forged cranks are OK but to stay away from their cast cranks. I'm not a machinist myself so take it for what it's worth, but both shops have good reputation in Reno.

As for your intake, I know you were asking about a single 4 barrel setup, but if you want something to turn heads, what about a Six Pack? I realize they're kind of pricey, but all the parts to put one together are available brand new,

Cheers,
Ken
 
Ken,

I am looking for simplicty and a potential horsepower increase; I'm not sure the 6-pack would be the ticket for me, as my engine is a blow-thru supercharged, 360 Magnum. I'm pretty happy with the way it runs, now, but if this Chinese manifold develops problems, I would like to replace it with something similar, and built in this country, but in a single-plane design. Tuning 3 carbs, along with the internal mods necessary for a successful blow-thru application would not be within the scope of my limited abilities, I am sure. Just building a suitable "Hat" for the air delivery would be a pretty good job, in itself.

But, within the community of single plane manifolds, I was curious about the differences in the Mopar Performance "crate engine" single-plane manifold, and the various other, aftermarket selections. The M-P looks pretty good to me, but Moper recomended Edelbrock units, and it made me wonder what's wrong with the Mopar piece.

Thanks for your interest!!!8)
 
Moparmal said:
Bill - all i can tell you is my Eagle needed an index grind, the main journals were out also, and the counter weights needed a real clean up, although I have also heard some were cracking.
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That's good information!!! I may have a $220.00 door stop on my hands... LOL!

Thanks a lot, Moparmal!:happy10:
 
I have an Eagle here but I havent measured it yet. The last one had a little taper but not out of acceptable limits and the throws were within a couple thou of each other. They are not perfect. But good value for the money.

On the intakes... The single plane MP is a good piece and my first choice for a single plane. The Victor is the onlt decent single plane and it's big for a street/strip engine... even a 4" stroked one. For good all around power the RPM is still IMO the best choice.
 
I went with a scat forged steel unit. I have heard from 2 different engine builders that about 50% of the eagle cranks they order keep showing up bent. they are poorly packed and aren't supported well during shipping.
 
moper said:
I have an Eagle here but I havent measured it yet. The last one had a little taper but not out of acceptable limits and the throws were within a couple thou of each other. They are not perfect. But good value for the money.

On the intakes... The single plane MP is a good piece and my first choice for a single plane. The Victor is the onlt decent single plane and it's big for a street/strip engine... even a 4" stroked one. For good all around power the RPM is still IMO the best choice.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Moper... Guess I need to take this POS cast crank to a good machine shop and get it checked out. I can't resist a bargain.... but, this is one I should have let slide.

Also, thanks for the advice on the M-P single plane. If this Chinese copycat gives me any reason to at all, I'll go for the M-P unit. So far, it's been okay, but if it's brittle, it may crack....

I'll let you guys know, if it does.
 
Bill - The Eagle cast cranks are cheap - and I guess you expect to outlay to get them "tidied up"...so don't feel "ripped off", its part of the deal it seems.....

The trick is guessing where the "good" brands start that don't need work......SCAT at $500US or MP or Callies at $$$

I wonder how many MP or SCAT cranks are out there that were cast, that needed some work also?

Moper may be able to shed more light - but I was told to expect to have to clean up any Mopar SB cast crank I buy - so maybe Eagle ain't alone?
 
Moparmal,

I'm not worried at all about spending a few bucks to index it, or straighten it if it's bent a little.


I'm worried (because of stories I've heard) about it breaking in half as my boost gauge slides past the 5-pound mark, and into some serious power-making territory.

That would not be pretty...

I wanted to add the stroker, and a second, Vortech blower, not to make 800 horsepower, but so I could lower the total boost to about 7 or 8 pounds, but do it with less heating of the air, and by maintaining more boost at lower rpms.

I think it could be faster than it is now, but easier on the engine, with less boost. I wouldn't care if it didn't make any more horsepower than it makes, now, if it was stronger through the mid-rpm range.

But, the crank is a big question mark, right now...

Here's the dyno sheet from a chassis dyno, and a grainy shot of the blower installation. I apologize for the poor photographic quality.

image0-2.jpg


100_3235-2.jpg
 
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