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33IMP said:
Yep, my chart (which i think is slightly optimistic) says 9.50 1/8 is good for 14.70s/80s.
Those conversion charts can be accurate, or inaccurate, depending on how good the car hooks.
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correct. A car with 2.76's, stock converter and makes power starting at 3500 rpms will have a stronger big end finish. I find easycalculations.com to predict the closest when I compare my 1/4 mile time slips to what they project. But like you say, not all cars will run the projection. Some slower, some faster. But an average run by the average car, easycalculations.com just about nails it spot on.
 
Well, i have three calculator methods (one of which uses a constant, so it can be adjusted to match a known good 1/8 and 1/4 pass), a chart on my phone, (referenced above) and the wallace calculator.
I havent tried the one you mention, but i will.
None of the five i have will give the same answer. Just like "a man with one watch knows what time it is, a man with two isnt sure". LOL.
 
33IMP said:
Well, i have three calculator methods (one of which uses a constant, so it can be adjusted to match a known good 1/8 and 1/4 pass), a chart on my phone, (referenced above) and the wallace calculator.
I havent tried the one you mention, but i will.
None of the five i have will give the same answer. Just like "a man with one watch knows what time it is, a man with two isnt sure". LOL.
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Agree. I have 4 that i use and they all are slightly different. Just comparing my ET slips for kicks to see who actually "nailed it", easycalculations always comes within a couple hundreths. The only TRUE way to convert 1/8 to 1/4 is ..... just run the 1/4 and look at the ET slip !!!! LOL :D
 
I like the Moroso and "Wallace" calculators....but for my car specifically I just multiply my 1/8 mile by 1.58 to get my 1/4. Its almost spot on for my car, but others that I race with use somewhere between 1.57-1.60 as their multiplyer....it just depends on your combo.:)
 
Yep, if you have some good 1/4 mi passes with 1/8 numbers, you can adjust the calculators to suit your car.
One of my cars was very accurate with 1.56, the other needed 1.59 to be right. Kinda depends on how good each cars 60ft vs top end power, which will be more accurate.
 
Weight, gear ratio and chassis play the role.
I LMAO when people ask me what it runs and I have no idea since I never ran the car in question.

After a discussion and explanation of all the parts, I’m told it’ll run X amount of time. I don’t believe this to be a good way of judging when there was no talks of the above. Nothing about;

Car weight
Suspension - how well it works or not
Converter stall
Tire size
Gear ratio
 
I forgot I have one more option. Eddy street t_ram with two 600 holleys or two 69 340 avs. I will buy another nitrous plate if I go this way. How much more hp ?
 
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Picking up my block today from machine shop. Will start checking block clearance. 4in. Crank and scat I beams. Will I need much grinding?
 
aaronk785 said:
Picking up my block today from machine shop. Will start checking block clearance. 4in. Crank and scat I beams. Will I need much grinding?
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Scat 4" and their I beam rods, I had to do zero grinding. I recall there being .100+ clearance
 
TurboGLH said:
Scat 4" and their I beam rods, I had to do zero grinding. I recall there being .100+ clearance
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I know grinding is needed when using the factory rods with a 4” stroke
 
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70dart340 said:
I think Rumblefish just had an accident in his underwear!
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LMAO! I did have one but sold it to a member.
That would have been an excellent street TR I think.
In the mean time….. I have another TR laying in wait.
 
Put my short block together last night. I'm having very good luck on this build. Never touched the decks but did check them for flat. Pistons ended up about .001 to .002 below deck. This scares me when things go this well. This is a budget build so I took a chance and it actually worked out this time. Having a lot of fun with this build. Enjoying building something again.
 
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