408

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I finally purchased a 408 stroker kit from scat. Here is my plan. 10:1 compression, ported speedmaster heads, following PBRs thread. Howards solid cam 254-260 at .050 .586 .593 lift before lash. rpm intake 750 holley dp . Besides stroker kit I have all the parts. This is going in a 3500lb 68 dart 4000 stall, 3.91 gears and 26 in. tires. What do you think. Total budget build. Any hp or torque guesses? E.T.? Just for fun.

480- 490 ish horse. 11.0 -11.10 ET is my guess. Gonna like more convertor, and possibly carb
Trying to figure out how everyones Dart weighs more than mine..lol
I weigh 315, my 69 Dart is all steel, factory hood, bumpers, carpet, glass, dash, wipers, etc, etc. no back seat is only weight savings, and i am 3320 with me in the car. 8 point mild steel cage, frame connectors…..
 
You need a bigger carb, a 5000 stall, 4.30 gears, bigger tires, more! more! more! gut the car to get below 3000lbs. So the consensus here (as is common) appears to essentially be you need to sell everything you have and start over!!!:rolleyes: OR, assemble everything you have and do plenty of test-n-tunes and dial in everything and see what you’ve got. THEN you make any possible changes if needed. I see room later on for easy changes if needed or desired. If anything I’d start a weight reduction plan. Otherwise I see nothing wrong with your parts (I’m assuming) you’ve chosen. Will be a handful on the street. At the track getting everything out of it will take time to really be able to tell anything. Gotta get it to hook and launch for one. See what you can do with it as planned. No need to reconsider or inject doubt into what you have planned.:thumbsup:


Lame take…

the guy ask.. “ what do you think”
I took that to mean…” what do you think”
In other words, what are your guys opinions on my combo. Or did i miss something?
 
Not lame at all, some sarcasm? Sure. You should see my fingers, they’re pretty muscular! :eek: Nowhere did I say anything was “wrong” with others opinions. It’s just my strong opinion that (in this case) there was “no need to reconsider or inject doubt” which happens here often with other similar threads. Wouldn’t say it if it weren’t a fact. I say build it, run it, tune it. He’s got everything already. And that’s not the reason to to stay the course. It’s because it’s a balanced matched combo to begin with......for the intended application: street/strip. The OP has obviously given much thought to it.

i would like to think most everyone puts thought into a combo they intend to use.
I too have a street strip small block stroker. When somebody says… what do you think, i take it to mean…. Is that how you would do it ..
Me, if its indeed going to be used at the track, i would have up front used a convertor that would yield better track results with zero liability on the street. It wouldnt have been a 4k stall. Convertors have come a long way, running a 5k vert has no liabilities on the street compared to a 4 k( actually maybe less). And i guarantee it will be faster at the track.
Regards the carb, a 750 will work fine. That said, in countless smallblock stroker combo’s, a bigger carb has always run quicker, and regards 850/950, not seen any liability compared to gains, on the street. He has a pretty healthy deal.
Look, people want opinions on a combo( and post them on here and ask ...what do you think) if they didnt, they wouldnt bother posting them and asking.
Try not to stifle those of us who have been there, done that from responding to them.
Your getting into near snowflake range
 
My opinion? His car is heavy (my b-body is 200 less) and it should run real good for a street/strip deal.
Put it together and run it!
 
I appreciate all your opinions. The build is what it is because I have all the parts. I have 5 cams on the shelf, this one seems to fit the best. Converter flashed to 4000 behind a mild 340 so I expect 200 to 300 more behind a 408. We’ll see what it does. And don’t forget it will have a 100 shot if needed.
 
I’m not too proud, arrogant or thick headed to not understand my opinions can be a little much at times. Don’t know what’s gotten into me here. I’ll promptly go and “f off” now. :BangHead:
Stifling... snowflake.... ugh, I’m embarrassed:(
Lame snowflake... LOL.. who said your opinion is better or worse...
I'm a lame snowflake also.. I agree with your opinion..:thankyou:...
Knowing both of us have small block stroker's..
 
We can all get the wrong impressions sometimes.....as to someone implying I’m being anywhere near a snowflake? As they say: GTFOOHWTS!!! :elmer:

if i came off wrong and used the wrong way to describe what you said, i apologize to you.
I just took it you seemed upset, to the point of ridiculing anyone who offered suggestions/ opinions of what others thought of his combo. We now clearly know he indeed welcomed those opinions. I always try and say exactly what i honestly think, good, bad , indifferent.
Go back and reread the comment you made i initially responded to.
Again,my apologies, if i took it the wrong way. Written comments for sure can often be taken several ways
 
We can all get the wrong impressions sometimes.....as to someone implying I’m being anywhere near a snowflake? As they say: GTFOOHWTS!!! :elmer:
Lame snowflake is hardly wiggle room for a wrong impression lol...
I guess this is the new Norm for how people talk to each other over the internet... Formerly out the passenger side of a fast moving vehicle LOL...
Anyways I think your advice is spot on...
That these power levels you're not going to set the world on fire either way.. most bracket race anyways and it don't matter how fast your car goes or doesn't just consistency. And generally the faster it is the less consistent it is... (That should bring out a couple gurus arguing...)
Pure advice is more on the do with what you have and have a good time learning it and once you've learned a bit you'll decide what avenue you'd like to go down next...
 
Hoping for about 11.5. And with a hit high 10s. I am running slicks 26-9. No roll bar. So 11.5 is it for the track. Unless there is no tech.
 
No need to apologize at all, really, I think i admitted to essentially going over the top opining (on other aspects not called for) and having muscular fingers (keyboard commando!) at times. I’m in no position to ridicule, believe me. I should have just offered up a response to the OP, called it good instead of blowing a little attitude here. Just a crap attitude on my part. :realcrazy: So I apologize to you and anyone who took exception but refrained from letting me have it here for all that and to the OP for stinking up his thread.

your a good man Charlie Brown
 
Fight! Fight!! Fight!!!... LOL...
Screenshot_20200331-153933.png

:D:D...
 
Should I half fill or not. Car will be street strip.
Yes if;

If the cylinder walls are thin (Machinists call) and/or your cresting 600+ hp on an engine that sees a LOT of racing conditions.
 
........... ............ And generally the faster it is the less consistent it is... .....................
As long as there are not traction issues, this statement is false. Think about it, the DA drops, the air gets cooler, and your car picks up a little power due to it....for a 14.0 car, that might make you pick up a tenth or more, for a 9 second car, that same "better air" might pick you up a few hundredths. In other words, the faster car will be more consistent.

Case and point, one of my fellow racers (Camaro) runs between 6.12-6.08 (1/8 mile) from the heat of summer to the cool fall air....my other buddy (Challenger) runs runs anywhere between 8.9 and 8.5 on the same race days. For those that don't do 1/8 mile racing, in a 1/4 mile that is a 9.5 car vs a mid 13 second car.
 
So it’s .030 over, if there is not a bunch of core shift I would not fill it, I do know some that short fill the block, but that is at longer strokes and much more compression. but I know nothing of working with nitrous. It is my experience that these cars are heavier than people think. Mine is 3200 without me. The only thing not in the car is the heater box. I also can run very little fuel in the car wiith the Holly hydra mat. 2-3 gallons in a stock tank.
 
... (That should bring out a couple gurus arguing...)..
^^^^you conveniently quoted me, but didn't quote my quote LOL...
As long as there are not traction issues, this statement is false. Think about it, the DA drops, the air gets cooler, and your car picks up a little power due to it....for a 14.0 car, that might make you pick up a tenth or more, for a 9 second car, that same "better air" might pick you up a few hundredths. In other words, the faster car will be more consistent.

Case and point, one of my fellow racers (Camaro) runs between 6.12-6.08 (1/8 mile) from the heat of summer to the cool fall air....my other buddy (Challenger) runs runs anywhere between 8.9 and 8.5 on the same race days. For those that don't do 1/8 mile racing, in a 1/4 mile that is a 9.5 car vs a mid 13 second car.
 
As long as there are not traction issues, this statement is false. Think about it, the DA drops, the air gets cooler, and your car picks up a little power due to it....for a 14.0 car, that might make you pick up a tenth or more, for a 9 second car, that same "better air" might pick you up a few hundredths. In other words, the faster car will be more consistent.

Case and point, one of my fellow racers (Camaro) runs between 6.12-6.08 (1/8 mile) from the heat of summer to the cool fall air....my other buddy (Challenger) runs runs anywhere between 8.9 and 8.5 on the same race days. For those that don't do 1/8 mile racing, in a 1/4 mile that is a 9.5 car vs a mid 13 second car.
9.5 in the 1/8 wouldn't normally be a mid 13 second car. Maybe mid 14's to high 14's. I agree with the rest of your statement.
 
He's saying the 6.0x-6.1x car is a 9.50s quarter car. He's right.
Ahh.... i get it. I thought he was doing a 1/4 mile conversion from 1/8 mile with a 9.5 time. Oh well, my statement is still true... lol
 
Ahh.... i get it. I thought he was doing a 1/4 mile conversion from 1/8 mile with a 9.5 time. Oh well, my statement is still true... lol
Yep, my chart (which i think is slightly optimistic) says 9.50 1/8 is good for 14.70s/80s.
Those conversion charts can be accurate, or inaccurate, depending on how good the car hooks.
 
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