426 stroker kit

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cnddodgehead

cnddodgehead

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Looking to build my 6.1 to a 426 Stroker. Looking for insight and best bang for the buck on parts . And some feed back on who has already done this . Thanks in advance
 
I went all Manley because of gun drilled crank on ALL throws and price was in the middle. Wiseco and Diamond have pistons now that allow you to retain your oil squirters with a stroker. I notched mine myself but it added gray hair I didnt need. You have to notch the block in one spot underneath #8, no big deal if you know about it ahead of time.
 
Oh and if you really really want to say you have a 426, it needs to be 4.08x4.08, mine is just a lowly 420 at 4.065x4.05. BUT I have at least one safe overbore left on my block too.
 
Mine is a hughes 426 kit. K1 crank and rods. Diamond pistons. If you want to do it right spend the extra few bucks on the good stuff. Mine dynoed at 563hp 540ft lbs. I've been playing with combos and this seems to be best.
 
These engines are easy 1.5hp per CI with the right parts. If mine doesnt make 500hp at the tires I will be disappointed.
 
I'm going to build a new stroker motor for my Challenger. I like the 4" crank (I think both Scat and Callies offer one). I have a new 6.1 block with stock bore and factory hone so I have to work out the c.i. of a 4.055 bore with 4" crank. I think it's more like 413 or so. An alternative I'm considering is an aluminum block at about 4.125 with the 4" stroke. I think that's closer to 426 or so. Expensive block though, unless I can score a good price somewhere. With the cast iron block, I'm not comfortable going beyond a 4" stroke for longevity. You can go more on the aluminum block because of the steel material used for the sleeves...
 
I know there are a few 4.08 crank 6.1's with over 50K miles and one with 80K. The deck height doesnt like the longer stroke when things get into stupid power, like 800+hp with boost. A 4" vs. 4" +.050" isnt gonna make or break a N/A engines life span IMO. If you want to turn 8000 rpm+ I would stick with a 3.79 or stock stroke.
 
ok so the k1 wisco combo is a bit cheaper . whats the pros and cons to the combo?
 
Whatever kit you price, be aware that a lot of them are marketed as stroker kits but dont include bearings,rings or balancing. It costs $160 to balance here locally. Rings are about $180 and bearings another $160.
 
Yeah, there are some guys getting miles out of the longer strokes, but I don't know the condition of the components inside and I've also heard many horror stories and have seen the pics to go with them. Primarily has to do with the thrust side of the cyl. walls.

I tend to go with what the Chrysler engineers work out, as they have high standards for longevity and I have no clue what standards the crank manufacturer's "engineers" use. They may just be using a stroke that has worked for them on a chevy engine or something. To me, it's like buying a cam that fits a Mopar but was ground with a popular chevy grind.

For my Cuda, I went with the 3.795 Scat crank for a 392", as that is the crank Mopar Performance used for the 392 crate engines and drag pak engines. To the contrary, I noticed Chrysler backed down the stroke a little on the regular production engine (again, to achieve greater longevity on a high production engine?).

In the 426 crate motor, they used a 4" crank (I believe it's from Callies) and that was even with the aluminum block. I know there are guys running 4.125 cranks out there that put out good hp and mega torque, but the ones I'm familiar with didn't last too long. I know of one guy who built an aluminum block with a 4.125 crank, but built it for one particular race event and then refreshed it / sold it right after.

People don't often explain those situations, so you just have to read between the lines and come to your own conclusion.


72BBSwinger said:
I know there are a few 4.08 crank 6.1's with over 50K miles and one with 80K. The deck height doesnt like the longer stroke when things get into stupid power, like 800+hp with boost. A 4" vs. 4" +.050" isnt gonna make or break a N/A engines life span IMO. If you want to turn 8000 rpm+ I would stick with a 3.79 or stock stroke.
Click to expand...
 
There are folks running 4.25" stroke cranks too. That is how they get the 440" gen III.
 
I think the 4.125 is used for the 440, but I could be wrong. I'll have to re-fresh my mind on some of this, but it doesn't make a difference for me as to what will work with an iron Gen3 vs. what will work for a long time in an iron Gen3.

It all gets down to what engineering knowledge you may have or who you want to believe out there. When I told my first engine builder my goals for my Cuda (plenty of racing with a manual trans and slicks) and couldn't decide between 392 and 426, he said definitely go 392.

I plan to bring my old engine building skills back into use on this 426 for my Challenger and decided on the 426 because I won't be beating on it as bad and there's already plenty of 392 SRT Challengers out there.
 
I bought my pistons and rings from PWR , Crank and Rods from Barton, rod bearings from Summit and mains off of Ebay. Balanced locally. Still have about $2300 in a rotator at the end of the day. But I would'nt be afraid of a 400hp nitrous shot either lol.
 
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