42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.

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That looks a lot like this one. I'm putting an A-500 in my 67 Barracuda. If I use this transmission mount will I still have to cut the tunnel and reweld a u shaped plate in it's place? Have you or anyone else used these transmission crossmembers?

518 Crossmember Kit - 67-75 Dodge Plymouth A-Body 1967 Plymouth Barracuda Transmission Crossmembers | X-Parts X395-1067-3 (autometaldirect.com)

This is the one you want. Looks like AMD carries it but the first few pics are for a different application.
USCTAM2027-67-75 A-Body 518 Crossmember Kit
 
You’ll find There are a few threads on this swap with a quick search. Here’s my 727 to 46rh swap thread.
727 46RH conversion coming

In all the swaps I’ve seen to an A500 or 518 they’ve all required the upper crossmember to be cut and reconfigured or replaced somehow. The tunnel also usually requires some hammer dimpling clearance got where the trans tail shaft overdrive section bolts to the main housing. The UScartool crossmember works great but some guys have made their own to save a few bucks. I did tons of research before I decided to jump in but was well worth it I think.
 
Here’s another great thread.
Has anyone successfully used the USCartool A500 Crossmember?

This one was done by MileHighDart. He and I did ours about the same time. I did mine just as he was finishing his up. He was a great inspiration. Loads of info in this thread.

Do you know if there is anyone on this page that can make the u shaped replacement metal band for the floor brace? I think I can handle the rest but that piece is going to be tough for me to make right now.
 
I'm in the middle of putting a 42 RH in my 70 Dart. I'm using the USCT crossmember. In my experience it is a great place to start, but it cannot be used as it arrives. The same clearance issues, especially on the driver side, for the cross member that runs above the trans, means that the USCT cross member has to be substantially revised including, as seen throughout this thread, moving at least the drivers side inside crossmember mounting bolt. What I do like about starting with the USCT unit is that it is really beefy throughout and really takes a lot of the support function that is compromised in cutting away a bunch of the upper frame member. Just remember that, like a Chrysler C-body which has no frame above the trans - WHENEVER YOU REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER AND THE SUPPORT IT NOW PROVIDES, YOU HAVE TO FIRST TAKE THE LOAD OFF OF THE CROSSMEMBER BY UNLOADING THE TORSION BARS.This isn't usually a big deal - how often do you take your trans out??? - but it is really important. It is also why, if you build your own crossmember, it needs to be a lot more structurally sound than the factory piece.
 
Remember if you have to move the inside trans crossmember bolt on the driver's side to provide clearance for the trans case, you will have to modify the Holley hoop too. That's not to say that this isn't a good way to go, just not plug and play, just like the USCT crossmember.
 
Remember if you have to move the inside trans crossmember bolt on the driver's side to provide clearance for the trans case, you will have to modify the Holley hoop too. That's not to say that this isn't a good way to go, just not plug and play, just like the USCT crossmember.
I bought the USCT cross member and the white widow hoop kit. On the next nice day I'm going to grind the hoop lose from the brackets and fit it to the car and spread it to the needed amount and fit it over my A-500 trans which it does not clear now, then reweld them in place.

It's not a plug and play but it sure seems like it could be with the right attention.
 
I'm in the middle of putting a 42 RH in my 70 Dart. I'm using the USCT crossmember. In my experience it is a great place to start, but it cannot be used as it arrives. The same clearance issues, especially on the driver side, for the cross member that runs above the trans, means that the USCT cross member has to be substantially revised including, as seen throughout this thread, moving at least the drivers side inside crossmember mounting bolt. What I do like about starting with the USCT unit is that it is really beefy throughout and really takes a lot of the support function that is compromised in cutting away a bunch of the upper frame member. Just remember that, like a Chrysler C-body which has no frame above the trans - WHENEVER YOU REMOVE THE TRANSMISSION CROSSMEMBER AND THE SUPPORT IT NOW PROVIDES, YOU HAVE TO FIRST TAKE THE LOAD OFF OF THE CROSSMEMBER BY UNLOADING THE TORSION BARS.This isn't usually a big deal - how often do you take your trans out??? - but it is really important. It is also why, if you build your own crossmember, it needs to be a lot more structurally sound than the factory piece.

$400 bucks for a crossmember that needs massaging? No thanks. My 518 swap I just took my xmember to a local welding shop told them what I needed and had it done on the spot for $75 bucks.
 
$400 bucks for a crossmember that needs massaging? No thanks. My 518 swap I just took my xmember to a local welding shop told them what I needed and had it done on the spot for $75 bucks.
IMHO I think that you clearly have no idea how heavy this cross member SHOULD be
 
IMHO I think that you clearly have no idea how heavy this cross member SHOULD be
Bellied out the middle of the old crossmember, heated and welded 3/8 plate around the bottom and sides of the old xmember to add the strength needed. Did it in 1994 and it worked for years without issue.. I just used a chevy style trans mount sandwiched between the 518 top trans mount plate and the xmember itself.
 
Bellied out the middle of the old crossmember, heated and welded 3/8 plate around the bottom and sides of the old xmember to add the strength needed. Did it in 1994 and it worked for years without issue.. I just used a chevy style trans mount sandwiched between the 518 top trans mount plate and the xmember itself.
That's interesting! Do you have any photos of the install? How much did you have to modify the trans tunnel and torsion bar crossmember (if any)?
 
It was an E body install so A may be different. I did notch the leading edge of the trans xmember as well as cutting off some of the webbing on the tailshaft of the trans. Sorry no pics was done a long time ago.
 
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