42RH / A-500 in a Duster with pictures.

Transmission and Drivetrain Tech

  1. plumkrazee70

    plumkrazee70 Well-Known Member

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    I just looked up a 1991 Dakota with a 3.9 V6 and a 5.2 V8 with an A500 (42rh) and they show the same flexplate ATP Z196 . I think you're all set.
     
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    • moparmat2000

      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      Yep my bolt circle measures 10.0" so I should be good with the ATP Z196. Specs say that one is a 10.0" bolt circle as well. Incidentally that part number goes all the way back to 1967 on 273 and 318. Heres pix of that V6 plate with hall effect trigger ring. Notice all the punched out holes on one side for balancing. I am showing this pic so people know not to use this one on a neutral balance V8

      20191010_220616.jpg

      20191010_220540.jpg
       
      Last edited: Oct 10, 2019
    • moparmat2000

      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      So there was a u shape machined into the bellhousing on my 42RH for the hall effect pickup that gets triggered by the old flexplate I dont intend to use. What did everybody do to theirs. I figure tight welding a piece will warp things a bit. What about filling it in with JB weld just to get rid of the cut out? What has everybody else done. I know JB in there wont have a bunch of strength. It was more for aesthetics to get rid of the cut out.
       
    • moparmat2000

      moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      So, what has everybody else done about this flywheel sensor cut out in the bellhousing?? Did you leave it, have it welded up, or JB Weld fill it.

      20191223_165022.jpg

      20191223_165008.jpg
       
    • Treblig

      Treblig Well-Known Member

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      I would make a 1/8" thick piece of metal in a shape that completely covers the hole and either epoxy it in place or drill and tap a couple of holes to screw it to the housing. That way you don't get oil slinging all over the place as the seals wear. The screw holes don't have to be very deep since the screws don't have to hold much.
       
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      • jrlegacy23

        jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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        I am in the process of rebuilding ta 46RH myself, going into my 1968 Barracuda. How many degrees are you guys running the transmission/driveshaft at? This is all I had to cut out, an no massaging to get in there.

        cut2.jpg
         
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        • moparmat2000

          moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Will be doing this very mod with a 42RH in a 69 barracuda. If I can suggest, you probably need to strap the cutout to box it in. I am going to use 1/8" steel flat stock bent into a horseshoe shape. Mine will probably be easier to weld in since I plan on modding the crossmember when I have the floor pan out for replacement.

          As far as the down angle on the trans. Your carburetor mating flange on your intake should sit level. If you notice, intake manifolds have a slightly wedge shape from front to back because the driveline angles down and yet the carb sits level.

          My recommendation is level the car front to rear on jacks with bubble levels taped to the doors rocker panels with the aluminum sill plates removed. With the car leveled, then remove your carburetor, and tape a bubble level to the carb flange on your intake manifold. Now set the angle of the drivetrain where the bubble on the carb flange is level. Now build your mount to that height.

          If I am wrong here, please someone step up and provide other information since this was how I was going to go about it with the trans crossmember mount I will be making.

          Hope this helps
          Matt
           
          Last edited: Dec 26, 2019
        • jrlegacy23

          jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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          I have a 3/16" piece of flat steel that I bent into place to fit the cut out. I just did not take a pic at that time. But yes, that is in the plan before I build the crossmember.
          My engine is set at where it was from factory, I am just curious of how many degrees down the driveshaft is to make sure that the Ujoint needle bearings function properly to eliminate any issues there.
           
        • Treblig

          Treblig Well-Known Member

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          Make sure your carpet is out before you start welding on the cross member bracing.
           
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          • moparmat2000

            moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            If the engine is set where it was angled at from the factory, then go with it. The more critical angle is on the rear axle itself. That's where the most degree of movement is going to come from and will be exerted on the rear u joint anyways. If you havent messed with the rear axle pinion angle, I would say wherever the trans is at with the engine at its stock angle is fine.

            Since I have no drivetrain in the 69. I will mock it up the way I mentioned in my last post.
             
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            • moparmat2000

              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              What's the thread size of the 4 torque converter to flex plate bolts used on the 42RH ? I'm at work, and want to load ARPs up in my summit shopping cart at lunch break. Already have the crankshaft to flex plate bolts loaded up in my cart.
               
            • moparmat2000

              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              That 3/16" might be a better way to go actually. I have both that and 1/8" in sheet form in my shop. jrlegacy23 , are you planning on just eliminating the inner 2 bolts for the crossmember, or moving them outward and relocating them. They definitely need to be chopped out of there to get the trans to fit since it is quite wide. Heres what somebody else did in pix below, which I will probably copy.

              IMG_20191221_142407172.jpg

              IMG_20191221_142459187.jpg

              IMG_20191217_105253014.jpg
               
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              • jrlegacy23

                jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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                I plan on the same, those are some nice pics for reference. I figure that if the factory wanted 4 bolts, so do I. I did eliminate the inner 2 bolts, but the passengers side looks like it has enough clearance to weld the stock one back in and use it without issue
                 
              • moparmat2000

                moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                I thought so too on the pix, which is why I copied them into my phone. I have one folder in my gallery labelled 42-46RH install. Whenever I come across pix of how different fabo members tackled this trans install with an idea I like, I make a copy of whatever it is and archive it.
                 
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                • plumkrazee70

                  plumkrazee70 Well-Known Member

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                  • 67dartgtgo

                    67dartgtgo FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    Hi gang. Would this wiring scheme work and protect my solenoids and vacuum switch using a Bosch relay?

                    2D6F56B0-2E88-49F3-8E28-05BD136ADDC1.jpeg
                     
                  • 67Dart273

                    67Dart273 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                    I cannot really read your diagram as it's too small and too dark but in a word, "no." The way the solenoids work, is that power is applied to one terminal not through a switch, but powered with ignition. Then whatever function you want, either OD or lockup, is activated by a switch or relay which GROUNDS one of the other two terminals.
                     
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                    • 67dartgtgo

                      67dartgtgo FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                      Thanks. I should redraw this I think. No wonder it looks incomplete. I left out the Hobbs pressure switches on the od & lu ground triggered by the governor pressure. I already deleted an earlier post today with a drawing that didn’t make any sense at all after I really looked at it. Back to the drawing board.
                       
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                      • jrlegacy23

                        jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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                        I had this diagram saved that was posted on FB diagram.jpg
                         
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                        • Jadaharabi

                          Jadaharabi FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                          You are showing one switch controling lp and od.
                           
                        • jrlegacy23

                          jrlegacy23 68 Barracuda

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                          Should be easy enough to add a second switch with the same concept
                           
                        • modart440

                          modart440 Well-Known Member

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                          Anyone have a part number for a 80" speedo cable? Just ordered one correct length but the thread on connector at the trans is way to small.
                          Thanks
                           
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